Fashion Week Notebook | Dolce and Gabbana Menswear

Key Takeaways: The flashy, luxury meets rebel collection could only have come from Dolce & Gabbana. Our take? One part Italian mobster, one part party animal. Key looks included skinny ties, screenprinted tees of vintage ads, and hardware detailing.

Color Palette: Dark, with black and grey dominating. Blue denim, white, crimson, olive, and beige lighten the palette.

Silhouettes: Skinny, fitted suits, hoodies layered under blazers, fitted motorcycle jackets, cardigans, drooping pants, knee-length cutoffs, and boxing shorts.

Accessories Report: Oversized sunglasses, dogtags, bucket hats, and beanies.

What’s Wearable: We like the hoodie-under blazer look, though it’s not new. We also love the cropped motorcycle jackets.

What’s Not Wearable: Floral patterns in a tough-guy look. Also, keep the boxing shorts in the ring.

Posted by Trisha on September 22nd, 2005 in Men, Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend | Add comment

Fashion Week Notebook | Burberry Menswear

Key Takeaways: Utility-inspired clothing fit for a jet-setting dandy. We loved the color combinations: mint green with saffron yellow, olive green with burnt orange, and a yellowed olive paired with salmon.

Color Palette: Neutrals and mainly pastels. Rose, mint, saffron, and burnt orange mixed with black, white, cream, and shades of beige and brown.

Silhouettes: Fitted silhouettes. Closely tailored button-down shirts, snug sweaters, and belted jackets topped straight-legged pants and shorts.

Accessories Report: Caps, scarves, weekender totes, over the shoulder sling bags, and skinny bags. For utility, we like the weekender totes. For style, we Adore the skinny bags.

What’s Wearable: Just about everything. We loved the belted trenchcoats, fitted tops and jackets, as well as the prep-school meets James Bond look.

What’s Not Wearable: Short shorts (but you knew that one already). The only other questionable theme was the patchwork look.

Posted by Trisha on September 22nd, 2005 in Men, Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend | Add comment

Fashion Week Notebook | Duckie Brown

Key Takeaways: Classic sportswear pieces in mainly solid colors. Patterns added for visual interest included dots, plaids, and stripes.

Color Palette: Red, peach, blue, coral, turquoise and green added eye-catching color to a base of black, white, grey, and beige.

Silhouettes: Mainly fitted shapes and layered looks. Some pieces (like a cardigan) were purposely oversized.

Accessories Report: Knit caps, sport sneakers, and the Man Tote.

What’s Wearable: Most of the collection was comprised of wearable looks. In particular, we liked the ¾ length coats, jackets with slightly shrunken arms, tuxedo shirts, and the pants creased just so.

What’s Not Wearable: Vinyl clothing. It may be functional if it’s raining, but even then, just get an umbrella. Also, the man tote looked awfully feminine.

Posted by Trisha on September 22nd, 2005 in Men, Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend | Add comment

Fashion Week Notebook | D Squared Menswear

Key Takeaways: Dean and Dan Caten gave us their vision of an urban cowboy for their Spring 2006 collection. Mixing high and low elements, the twins adapted classic western wear for a more metropolitan environment.

Color Palette: Besides black and white, the Caten brothers focused on beige, browns, blues, yellows and reds.

Silhouettes: Close-fitting tops and bottoms. Straight legged pants, tailored suit jackets, body-hugging vests.

Accessories Report: Big belt buckles, bandanas, suspenders, skinny ties, shrunken ties, aprons, skinny belts, and the obligatory Cowboy hats.

What’s Wearable: Shrunken jackets, skinny ties and belts, suspenders, straight legged pants, and the combination of high and low elements (e.g. a tuxedo shirt with distressed jeans).

What’s Not Wearable: Tread cautiously with the bandanas and the shrunken ties. And leave the aprons at home. As for oversized belt buckles—if the buckle is larger than your wallet, it’s too big!

Posted by Trisha on September 21st, 2005 in Men, Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend | 2 comments

Fashion Week Notebook | Alexander McQueen Menswear

Key Takeaways: Alexander McQueen’s collection started off as slightly subversive and preppy/nautical-inspired, but by the end of the show, McQueen had moved all the way over to the land of the avant garde, with sequins, feathers, and capes.

Color Palette: White, Beige, Grey, Gold, Red, Purple, Blue and Black.

Silhouettes: Three piece suits, turned up shirt cuffs, knee-length shorts, double breasted jackets, man boleros, capes. McQueen showed both fitted, tailored looks and slightly more blousy garments.

Accessories Report: Baseball caps, sailor hats, socks pulled up to the knee, untied ties as scarves, belts, ties as belts, rope belts, flip flops, short ties.

What’s Wearable: Turned up shirt cuffs, ¾ length jackets (almost universally flattering on men, especially when tailored thin), ties as belts (seen this one before, but it’s quirky yet wearable),untied ties as scarves, three piece suits.

What’s Not Wearable: The Man Bolero, Sequins and Feathers. Also stay away from capes unless you’re [insert the action hero of your choice here].

Posted by Trisha on September 21st, 2005 in Men, Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend | 1 comment

Fashion Week Notebook | L.A.M.B. by Gwen Stefani

Key Takeaways: Eclectic collection touching on a number of themes from past seasons: ethnic & embellishment, military, and nautical, to name a few.

Color Palette: Neutrals were accompanied by yellows, oranges, mint green, and forest green.

Silhouettes: The big story here was belted looks. Gwen Stefani showed a number of long straight skirts on dresses, shorts hitting at the knee.

Accessories Report: Belts were huge. Also important were slouchy boots, belted boots, knit caps, and fedoras.

What’s Wearable: We appreciated Stefani’s colorblocked drapey dresses in particular.

What’s Not Wearable: See through dresses (clearly). Or being covered in logos from head to toe. Stefani’s collection was styled theatrically for dramatic effect—if you try any of these outfits head to toe, you’ll likely come off looking more like a fashion victim than fashion forward.

Posted by Trisha on September 20th, 2005 in Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women | Add comment

Fashion Week Notebook | Cloak (Menswear)

Key Takeaways: Faux formal collection mixing high and low elements. Perfect for the urban man with a bit of an edge.

Color Palette: Purely neutrals, and predominantly black, with touches of white, beige, and greys.

Silhouettes: Fitted silhouettes. Skinny, straight-legged pants and shorts paired with tailored jackets, shirts, and skinny ties.

Accessories Report: Boots!

What’s Wearable: Great detailing on the jackets, and they’re a natural addition to any stylish man’s closet. We also liked the double breasted cardigan sweater for an edgy take on prep school chic.

What’s Not Wearable: Jacket + Dress Shirt + Tie + Shorts. It’s a bit extreme for the normal man.

Posted by Trisha on September 20th, 2005 in Men, Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend | Add comment

Fashion Week Notebook | Brian Reyes

Key Takeaways: Detail-oriented sportswear collection featuring classic silhouettes in neutral colors.

Color Palette: Neutrals such as white, grey, beige, brown, and black, were interspersed with bright primary colors: red, yellow, and blue.

Silhouettes: Mostly fitted skirts, skinny pants and shorts, with a couple of more voluminous skirts thrown in for good measure. On top, fitted bodices alternated with slightly more blousy styles, in line with the controlled volume theme.

What’s Wearable: Absolutely everything. Reyes didn’t stray far from classic shapes.

Posted by Trisha on September 20th, 2005 in Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women | Add comment

Fashion Week Notebook | BCBG

Key Takeaways: Max Azria combined elements of minimalism with the exuberant embellishment of the last few seasons. Our favorite runway looks included a Marilyn Monroe style halter dress with a full skirt, and a blousy top over short shorts with a sweatercoat coverup.

Color Palette: Neutrals included black, white, beige, and greyed out colors. Azria added to this neutral palette primary colors—red, blue, yellow, as well as purple and gold.

Silhouettes: Key trends out of this show included controlled volume on blouses, skirts, and even shorts, short shorts, wrap styles, and horizontal stripe detailing.

What’s Wearable: Blousy tops tend to be forgiving, and we love that Azria’s tops aren’t shapeless.

What’s Not Wearable: Be careful with wide horizontal stripes, even if you’re Amazingly Tall. More petite women, in particular, should opt for narrower lines that don’t visually cut the body into sections.

On another note, short shorts should only be worn with toned legs.

Posted by Trisha on September 19th, 2005 in Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women | Add comment

Fashion Week Notebook | Monique Lhuillier

Key Takeaways: A ladylike collection of eveningwear and cocktail-appropriate dresses. Lhuillier’s collection had an old-world type of charm–very pretty, but not overly embellished. While she clearly follows in the footsteps of Vera Wang, some of her cocktail numbers channeled Oscar de la Renta.

Color Palette: Neutrals (white, black, and shades of beige) were accompanied by yellow, lilac, sky blue, moss, and fuschia.

Silhouettes: Cocktail wear featured fitted bodices and mostly A-line skirts. Lhuillier showed bodices in three classic shapes: high-necked, strapless, and bra-top styles. Evening gowns ranged from drapey bias-cut styles to poufy voluminous looks.

What’s Wearable: Just about everything. We’ll no doubt be seeing some of these looks on the red carpet.

More specifically, we’re a big fan of the A-line skirt’s almost universal figure flattery. Also, Lhuillier’s monochromatic high-necked styles will be flattering to petite women for their elongated vertical line.

What’s Not Wearable: Watch your step in Lhuillier’s poufy evening gowns. For tall girls only.

Posted by Trisha on September 19th, 2005 in Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women | Add comment

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