Fashion Week Notebook | Monique Lhuillier

Monique Lhuillier 

Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Key trends in Monique Lhuillier’s day-to-evening collection included (1) capes and capelets, (2) bell (and other voluminous) sleeves, (3) the Bubble silhouette, (4) higher waistlines, (5) oversized collars,  (6) waistline emphasis, (7) oversized fabric brooches, (8) tuxedo-style detailing, and (10) fur.

Color Palette:  Black, grey, turquoise, sky blue, and greyed out shades of rose and yellow-green.

Silhouettes:  Lhuillier’s silhouettes tended to be either (1) big over small, or (2) small over big.  Either way, they balanced out the body nicely (at least on a model’s figure).  Particularly oversized items included sleeves, collars, capes, and bubble skirt silhouettes.

Accessories Report: The ubiquitous long gloove and an oversized fabric brooch.

What’s Wearable: A black cocktail dress with poufy ruffles caught our eye, as did a grey double breasted coat in a trapeze shape.  Both daywear and eveningwear were highly wearable in this collection.

What’s Not Wearable: The heavily oversized brocade coat with 3/4 sleeves would be better left on the runway.

Posted by Trisha on February 8th, 2006 in Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women | 1 comment

Fashion Week Notebook | Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  In the past three seasons, Narciso Rodriguez has been loosening up his silhouette.  Even though fashion is heading towards the more voluminous, we wish that Rodriguez would stay true to his roots and give us more of the svelte, understated style that earned him the praise of the CDFA in the first place.  For women, key trends are: (1) short sleeved dresses, (2) bubble shaped skirts, and (3) colorblocking.  For men, the key trends are: (1) the Three Button Suit, (2) narrow ties, (3) knee length shorts, and (4) short sleeved sweaters.

Color Palette:  Black and white, with shades of cream, peach, and bluish grey.

Silhouettes: Not the classic Rodriguez "fits like a glove" silhouette–even the fitted items were worn looser.  We also saw capes, short sleeved dresses (a new trend?), and slightly bubble-shaped and flared skirts for women.  For men, we saw slim cut three-button suits, narrow ties, knee length shorts (paired with a button down shirt, tie, and jacket!), 3/4 length coats, and short sleeved and sleeveless sweaters.

Accessories Report:  Structured handbags, bags with chain handles, capes, and colorblocked knee-high boots.

What’s Wearable: Most everything shown, both for men and women, is wearable, though we would appreciate a more structured fit to the clothing.

What’s Not Wearable:
Shiny vinyl-type fabrics don’t generally translate well off the runway.  We also won’t be wearing Rodriguez’s long sleeved dress with a center front lower torso vertical cutout.  And because of the generous cut, some of the dresses ended up looking matronly.  

Posted by Trisha on February 8th, 2006 in Men, Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women | 1 comment

Fashion Week Notebook | BCBG

BCBG

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: A major turtleneck comeback is in the works. For one, BCBG has elongated the traditional turtleneck into a slimming mini dress. Turtlenecks were also layered beneath dresses, saying goodbye to the bare décolleté. Knee-length boots are old news, but this collection saw knee-length tights peeping out from under the boots. This BCBG girl is less sophisticated and more medieval and carefree. Tres innovative!

Color Palette: Black, teal, blue, rustic orange, purple, brown, mustard yellow, khaki, and grey.

Silhouettes: Things are pretty loose around here: Chiffon dresses, puffy shorts, knit jackets, cropped cardigans. The turtleneck dresses are the exception to this rule because of their stretchy nature.

Accessories Report: Knit beanies are a must; almost every outfit in the collection has a matching one. White and black square and tiny glasses (looked more like reading glasses than shades) were also prevalent. An occasional mid-size handbag with a chain-link strap was seen. And the latest trend brought back from the Clueless era: knee highs.

What’s Wearable: The turtleneck dresses should definitely be sported with a pair of tights, especially on a rainy day. Many of the fancier dresses are quite practical as well.

What’s Not Wearable: If you choose to work the knee highs under the boots, you take the risk of looking like an agricultural farmer. One kimono-like jacket with wide sleeves is quite unflattering, even on a stick skinny model. Finally, one fancy gold dress with a turtleneck underneath looks more like a walking lampshade than a dress.

Posted by Melody on February 8th, 2006 in Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women |

Fashion Week Notebook | Cynthia Steffe

Cynthia Steffe

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Knit sweaters, knee highs, and heavy scarves worn like neck braces dominated this collection. Although feminine and girly touches existed, only a really confident woman could pull off these clothes with great ease.

Color Palette: Black, off-white, neutrals, pink, grey, brown, grayish blue, and olive green.

Silhouettes: Steffe riffed on some common fashion week themes: bubble skirts, flowy dresses, and knit jackets.

Accessories Report: Thin belts worn at the waist, scarves worn like neck braces, knee high stockings, t-strap heels, and once again, the ubiquitous long leather gloves.

What’s Wearable: Many of the pieces in this collection are wearable, but like we stated in other collections, there needs to be a bit of modification. A knit short-sleeve jacket paired with a knee-length khaki skirt is doable without the black knee highs.

What’s Not Wearable: The knee high comeback may not translate as well on the streets as it did on the big screen in “Clueless.”

Posted by Melody on February 8th, 2006 in Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women |

Fashion Week Notebook | James Coviello

James Coviello Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  The sisters of “Little Women” gone wild – that’s the essence of Mr. Coviello’s Fall 2006 collection.  As a co-worker of the famous Anna Sui, Coviello’s knack for the vintage focuses on the aspects of the sophisticated bohemian rather than the naïve school girl. 

Color Palette:  A prismatic bolt of browns take center stage, while supporting shades include hints of warm blues, greens, pinks and maroons.

Silhouettes:  A combination of fitted and relaxed is shown in the various pieces.  For the most part, fitted tops lead down to relaxed, draping slacks.  Asian influenced tailoring is used nicely, and knee-length skirts give a pleasant shape to the troublesome female hip zone.  The numerous mutated slip dresses with flowy capped sleeves and sporadic ruffles aren’t brand-spankin’ new, but the delicate material used gives an applauded feminine shape.

Accessories Report:  Leather shoulder purses suit the collection very well, while wispy scarves give elongated necks appreciative texture.  As always, Coviello adds his own personal touch of chic corsages that are beautifully urban rather than trendy soccer mom.

What’s Wearable: Each piece of Coviello outerwear (blazers, boleros and coats) promises to be the concept of many copycats out there. The multi-colored quilted cardigan is most appealing. The contrast of hard tweeds with sweet cascading fabrics is feminine with a hard professional edge, and the puffy sleeves are done in a tasteful way that makes them look wearable.  The prints he uses are also great standing alone – they are both understated and stylish.

What’s Not Wearable: Mixing different types of patterns is a good trend, but some of the pieces go a little bit overboard.  It’s no question that Coviello can do wonders with vintage style.  Even so, some of his vintage-inspired clothing looks a little bit too old for general fashionista audiences. There was one patterned dress in particular that was unflattering and it looked like a table cloth/second hand house dress.

Posted by Dino on February 8th, 2006 in Runway Reviews, Runway to Reality, Trend, Women | 3 comments

Fashion Week Notebook | Betsey Johnson

Betsey Johnson

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Tights were a lot sheerer, dresses a lot shorter, and the entire collection a bit more grown up than usual Betsey Johnson. Some aspects of the 80’s were revived with sweetheart cuts, humongous shiny bows, and puffy short sleeves. Although this new Betsey Johnson girl still has a bit of edge and spunk, she’s outgrown cartwheels. (Of course, Betsey will always do cartwheels…but then again she gets away with doing more than anyone her age).

Color Palette: Mostly black with hints of gold, navy blue, off-white, grey, lime green, pink, royal blue, green, purple, red, teal, and yellow.

Silhouettes: There was a lot of short, leg-revealing dresses, but they were by no means tight. Many sweetheart (Hello 1985!) and v-neck cuts showed up, as well as some babydoll dresses.

Accessories Report: We saw a few handbags with colorful embellishments floating around. Shoes were mainly pointy ankle boots and open-toed sandals. Occasionally, we saw a thick studded belt and a thin silk neck tie.

What’s Wearable: Some dresses are appropriate to wear at a fancy soiree, but they must be paired with tights as they are so short. Various skirts suits and jackets are also wearable.

What’s Not Wearable: It’s better for everyone if the ‘80s stuff stays in the closet. One dress with cutouts in the stomach area oozed less class and more trash.

Posted by Melody on February 8th, 2006 in Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women | 1 comment

Fashion Week Notebook | Zang Toi

Zang Toi Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  With his own brand of aesthetic, the Malaysian designer brings forth a “fur”-ocious collection of femme fatale garments that are perfect for work, cocktail parties and sexy espionage.

Color Palette:  The foundation of solid blacks and grays is touched with icy blues and pinks.

Silhouettes:  The blacks and grays are easily trace the lines of the female figure, but Toi’s remarkable tailoring skills give an extra dimension of feminine supremacy.  The sleek matrix style contains variations of basic black by utilizing plaids in pant suits.  Toi’s dresses and skirts are flattered with wispy empire waists that give maternal sensuality.  All styles outline curves and give clean looks suitable for professionals and socialites alike. 

Accessories Report:   Although PETA might get their vegan cotton in a wad, fur is top-notch this season.  Toi brings back the lost art of the mink stole with a monstrous addition to his pant suits.  Wide belts add subtle panache to monochromatic suits.  In addition, envelope clutches add a classy touch to much of his evening wear.

What’s Wearable: Toi gives justice to the polar extremes that involve women: the immaculate and the confident.  The detailing work on many of his garments is magnificent.  From his majestically sexy red carpet evening wear to his luxurious pant suits, each garment brings something to the table.  Out of the two, the double breasted pant suits flatter to a "T" and go with the ongoing fall theme of the “powerful working woman.”  Toi also manages to throw in a couple of menswear pieces that are just as fine as his women’s wear. 

What’s Not Wearable: Fur is fun, but from a functionality standpoint, the potential excess shedding can cause problems with Toi’s black color palette.

Want more trend information?  Check out Omiru’s Mid Fashion Week Trend Recap!

Posted by Dino on February 7th, 2006 in Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women | 1 comment

Fashion Week Notebook | Willow

Willow Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Kit Willow’s Fall 2006 collection was very much in line with the overall trends we’ve been seeing: high waistlines, belted styles, layering dresses over turtlenecks, Huge collars, and voluminous shapes.

Color Palette: Neutrals: Black, White, Grey, and Brown, with splashes of green-yellow and pink.

Silhouettes: Very full on top or the bottom, or an overall slim silhouette.  Also favored are highly constructed bustier style dresses.

Accessories Report: Belts with huge metal buckles.

What’s Wearable: Layering dresses over turtlenecks, high waisted styles, bustier-style dresses.

What’s Not Wearable: Beware of the jackets with the HUGE collars…they’ll make you look disproportionate.

 Check out Omiru’s Mid Fashion Week Trend Recap for more fun with trends!

Posted by Trisha on February 7th, 2006 in Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women | 1 comment

Fashion Week Notebook | Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: This Marc Jacobs gal is no sissy. She’s a vagabond, a gypsy, a free and sometimes dark spirit. She does not care what anyone thinks of her and she carries the essentials in her closet on her body. She’s not afraid to wear her boyfriend’s shirt, sweater, or trousers for that matter, and she’ll rock it outside of the house with no shame. But don’t get her wrong, she still likes to wear a dress—as long as it’s not your average Oscar gown. 

Color Palette: No girly girl colors here: Mostly grey, with army green, brown, black, , dark red, and mustard yellow.

Silhouettes: Baggier than most of the collections we’ve seen this season. A lot of layers, bulky trench coats, saggy trousers, puffy strapless dresses, wide cropped coats, draped-back dresses, bubble skirts, men’s blazers.

Accessories Report: To go with the tough-chic attitude, leather gloves, bulky scarves, chunky handbags, exaggerated knit berets, arm warmers, leggings, over the shoulder leather bags, and a gigantic furry hat.

What’s Wearable: This collection needs a whole lotta toning down in order to wear. Even if you’re going to wear the baggy pieces, you need to pair them with less dramatic articles.

What’s Not Wearable: Some of the dramatically loose items, like a flannel boat neck shirt and an overly huge cropped trench coat, are not suitable for the streets.   We also don’t recommend gigantic furry hats.

Posted by Melody on February 7th, 2006 in Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women | 1 comment

Shopping Guide: Luella Bartley Accessories at Target

Luella’s accessories are also rather cute.  We liked a few of her bags and a unique-looking necklace:

Luella Canvas Sling

Luella Canvas Sling - Apple Print | $29.99 at Target

Luella Hobo

Luella Hobo - Top Banana | $34.99 at Target

Luella Beaded Necklace

Luella Beaded Necklace - Orange Bolt | $14.99 at Target

Can’t get enough Luella?  Check out our picks for her Target clothing collection and Omiru’s Runway Review of Luella’s Fall 2006 show.

Posted by Trisha on February 7th, 2006 in Shopping Guide, Women |

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