Key Takeaways: As the first designer from Mainland China to present at New York Fashion Week, Mr. Cabbeen shows us just how funky, modern and colorful Chinese fashion has become. Wearable everyday bombers in twill and nylon were paired with carefree trousers and jeans and laid-back black trainers with painted or embroidered embellishment. Fabric choices ranged from plaid to chevron to pinstripe.
Color Palette: A rainbow of colors ranging from the requisite grey, navy and black to pale yellow, maroon and army green. Colorblocking and plaid fabrics featured prominently in the collection.
Silhouette: Relaxed on top with long and lean hoodies and tanks paired under comfy jackets and casually fitted pants and jeans.
Accessories Report: Scarves and striped ties adorned the necks of most models. Most also sported black trainers or roll-top ankle boots in neutral colors.
What’s Wearable: For the guy with a bit of fashion-funk, we recommend the robin’s egg blue jacket with cherry blossom embroidery to catch the eye of any lucky lady (or lad).
What’s Not Wearable: If it’s over 20 degrees where you live and the sun is shining, steer clear of the oil-slick inspired puffer jackets so as not to blind innocent bystanders.
Posted by Goldie on February 6th, 2007 in Men, Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend |
Key Takeaways: Creative director John Crocco showed a group of clean looks featuring horizontal stripes and cozy wool, thermal and leather pieces that have us dreaming of hot cocoa by the ski lodge fire. Thick knits featured chevrons and other geometric patterns. Rugged models where snuggled under warm winter beanies and sported a "just-in-from-the-cold" makeup scheme of blushed faces and rosy red lips. Key trends included: neutral colors, patterned knit fabric (e.g. cable knit), horizontal stripes, plaid, the sweaterjacket, pocket detailing (on pants and jackets), and high waisted pants.
Color Palette: Classic shades: creamy winter whites, simple blacks and greys were complemented by several tones of steel blue-grey.
Silhouettes: Thick cream cable knits were paired with slim (but not tapered) high-waisted dress pants in strong shades of blue. Suits were cut slim, but not tight, and included vests in contrast fabric. Detailing included leather strips, fur cuffs, and on pants–extra pockets. Bare-chested muscular men in long white underwear reminded us that thermals can be both playful and practical.
Accessories Report: Scarves! This friendly little neck warmer comes in many shapes and sizes, as Crocco cleared showed with several long and short loops of cashmere/wool warmth in oatmeal-type colors. Several large totes in various wool and brown leather were carried down the runway–perfect for the man who has everything–-and needs to carry it on the go. Feet were kept cozy in glossy styles and snug pale blue suede shoes. Hands were covered in sleek black or dark brown leather gloves.
What’s Wearable: V-neck cardigans and tailored dress pants are stylishly safe for the elegant contemporary man. We love the stylish 3/4 length coats–and the sweaterjackets–to keep you warm for Fall. The pocket-as-embellishment detailing on pants and jackets is a quiet, but effective way to stand out in a crowd.
What’s Not Wearable: We’re not a fan of the plaid pants–they’re more pajamas than real pants.
Posted by Goldie on February 5th, 2007 in Men, Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend |
Key Takeaways: An extremely wearable collection of dresses and playfully elegant looks in simple shapes. Key trends included: colorblocking, high-waisted looks, sweaterjackets, ruffles, bows (on blouses and dresses), and dots.
Color Palette: Black and red dominated the collection, along with grey and turquoise.
Silhouettes: Dresses, dresses, dresses. Diane von Furstenberg’s wrap dresses were accompanied by sweaterdresses, tent dresses, kimono sleeved dresses, and bubble dresses. Both big over small and small over big silhouettes were seen on the runway. Loose, breezy jackets accompanied more form fitting dresses.
Accessories Report: Pure elegance–heels with a high vamp, wrist-length gloves, long chain necklaces with jewels, and the oversized bag.
What’s Wearable: Sleeved dresses help camoflauge heavy upper arms, and Diane von Furstenberg’s signature wrap dresses perfectly complement curvy women. We like the emphasis on print–both the dots and the black and white lacelike prints. Though they might not be warm enough for Fall, we like the sweaterjacket and dress combination for Spring.
What’s Not Wearable: The coat with horizonal ruffles, though shown in black, still manages to visually widen the torso. Big over big silhouettes work on the runway–but not on real people.
Posted by Trisha on February 5th, 2007 in Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women |
Key Takeaways: Steven Cox and Daniel Silver of Duckie Brown cheekily juxtaposed streetwear with suits for Fall 2007. Key trends included: colorblocking, skinny pants, wide pants, plaid patterns, colored gloves, and the pointed beanie.
Color Palette: Dark; blacks and browns were accented by touches of bright orange, green, turquoise and yellow. Plaid patterned tops were featured with dark colored trousers.
Silhouette: Blazers were cut exclusively with two buttons. Loose fitting coats and jackets were paired with skinny pants for a big-over-small look. Two other garment classifications of note: the vest and the shrunken blazer.
Accessories Report: Colorful gloves and bright (pointed) beanie hats.
What’s Wearable: We’re all over Duckie Brown’s brightly colored accessories, which make wearing bright colors more accessible to men. For more adventurous types, we recommend Duckie Brown’s green overcoat, paired with grey and muted denim. Style tip from Duckie Brown? Push up the sleeves on a long sleeve shirt–but keep the cuffs showing.
What’s Not Wearable: As we noted at Buckler, underwear as outerwear is just not a good idea. A turtleneck and beanie combo needs a pair of pants to make it complete.
Posted by Trisha on February 5th, 2007 in Men, Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend |
Key Takeaways: Futuristic with a science fiction edge, Andrew Buckler’s Fall 2007 presentation featured crisp, refined lines and a nod to the 80s rock scene. Buckler showed body conscious cardigans, dress shirts, and jackets along with corsets, wifebeaters, and colorful boxer briefs.
Color Palette: Key colors included jet black, graphite ebony, darker reds, boyish blues, and bruised purple.
Silhouette: Jackets and dress shirts were lean, with refined lines and a tailored feel. Pants were cut skinny and exuded a punkish 80s vibe.
Accessories Report: Caps in the style of a British police officer. Elbow-length gloves, Knee socks, and colorful thin scarves. Simple silver jewelry with a Rock n’ Roll edge.
What’s Wearable: We’re digging the beautifully tailored jackets, cardigans, and dress shirts.
What’s Not Wearable: Underwear as outerwear–corsets and tight underwear don’t belong on the streets. Uber-skinny pants also pose a fashion challenge for most men.
Posted by Trisha on February 4th, 2007 in Men, Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend |
Key Takeaways: Designer Grant Krajecki (pronounced "G-r-a-a-n-t" and the inspiration for the line’s name) took us into a time machine back to the early 90s and the mid 80s. Fabrics ranged from gauzy and light to shiny and slick to thick and bouclé. Key trends included: high-waisted silhouettes, ruffles, off-the-shoulder and asymmetrical tops, a focus on neutral colors, and metallics.
Color Palette: Greys of all sheens and shades featured in this collection along with strong blacks, maroons, a pale crème-beige and a moody black-gold lamé that puts our early childhood fantasies of being Madonna to shame.
Silhouettes: The modern day version of "Dynasty" — if the women wore more tailored pants and were each a size 0. Grey Ant featured highly tailored pants in charcoal, black, and medium blue denim with a high cut and an intriguing v-cut in the back. Structure was repeated in a broad shoulder silhouette and discarded in a series of oversized sack dresses. Basic off-the-shoulder and asymmetrical tops and dresses rounded out the collection.
Accessories Report: Waists were cinched a bit below the natural waistline with wide belts in a variety of neutral colors (and a high-gloss sheen). Large gold earrings and chunky trapezoidal necklaces framed the models’ faces, while the oversized square eyeglasses overpowered those faces in shades of black, red and a funky clear. Hair ranged from 90’s stringy and straight to a strangely attractive side hair poof, compliments of the innovative Rusk hair team.
What’s Wearable: High-waisted pants work well for those of us with short legs–and we adored the slight v cutout in the back of the jeans.
What’s Not Wearable: Avoid the overexuberant shirt ruffles unless you’re a world-famous flamenco dancer (or Jack Sparrow).
Posted by Goldie on February 3rd, 2007 in Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend, Women |
Key Takeaways:The Harvard alum stuck to his signature "preppy with a twist" style, showing sweatervests, fair isle sweaters, and turtlenecks fit for a slightly subversive prep school student. Though his silhouettes remained pretty standard, John Bartlett spiced up his menswear collection with rich textures, ranging from velvet to cable knit. Key trends included colorblocking (seen on both sweaters and jackets), sweatervests (a continuing trend), and wide cuffed pants.
Color Palette: Shades of beige, white, black, and greys overshadowed touches of olive green and a splash of red. Colorblocking featured as a central theme in Bartlett’s collection.
Silhouettes: Both shirts and sweaters were cut slim, though Bartlett’s jackets and coats were more relaxed in fit. Pants ranged from skinny-legged to wide-legged, with the most notable pant detail being the wide turned-up cuffs. Sweatervests and turtleneck sweaters featured prominently. Coats and jackets included 3/4 length styles, aviator styles, (velvet) blazers, and mandarin collared styles.
Accessories Report: Three accessories trends to note: (1) brightly colored socks paired with neutral colored shoes, (2) the skinny tie (a continuing trend), and (3) scarves with a "cuff" detailing.
What’s Wearable: Textured sweaters, velvet blazers, and wide legged pants will keep you warm for Fall. Our favorite look? A sweatervest paired with a button-down shirt with the sleeves rolled up.
What’s Not Wearable: What not to wear? The plaid suit and the jailbird stripes.
Posted by Trisha on February 2nd, 2007 in Men, Runway Reviews, Runway Reviews, Trend |
We’ll be continuing Fashion Week coverage, straight from the tents at Bryant Park this season. Check back often for our trademark show reviews and trend roundups!
While we gear up to start our Fall 2007 fashion coverage, check out our Spring 07 Fashion Week writeups, including our Top Five Trends from Fashion Week and our Comprehensive Trend Roundup.
Posted by Trisha on February 2nd, 2007 in News, Off Topic |
Spring 2007 was all about continuing, not departing from, the big trends from Fall 2006. Presenting the Top Seven Spring 07 Trends that we hope will continue through Fall.
Posted by Trisha on February 2nd, 2007 in Trend, Trend Predictives, Trendscape, What's In and What's Out, Women |
They say a picture is worth a thousand words, but in the case of jack&marjorie designer duo Meghan Parsons and Manuel Opp, it also served as inspiration for a handbag and accessories line. After coming across a box of old 1940s photographs, the pair was inspired to create a line made of military surplus materials. In each of their collections, you’ll find wool blankets, ground sheets, parachutes, and webbing paired with more feminine elements like vintage lace, silk, brocade and buttons. Meghan shared with Omiru the story behind the jack&marjorie name, why they chose to create with military surplus materials, and how living abroad has shaped their work.
Omiru: Tell us the story behind the jack&marjorie name.
Meghan: Jack and Marjorie Allard were my grandparents on my mother’s side. I came across a box of old photographs of them taken in the 1940s, and they inspired the line.
O: Writers often experience writer’s block when they run out of ideas. Do you ever experience designer’s block?
M: Yes, often we do for a short time, but it never lasts long. As soon as we find some cool new army surplus materials, new ideas emerge.
O: Why combine military surplus materials with feminine lace and silk?
M: Not sure why, but I’ve always loved army surplus. I just love how it looks. It’s really utilitarian and practical, and I love that there’s often some sort of a history behind it. As for the feminine elements, it’s fun to combine things that are polar opposites and try to make them look cohesive, like they were meant to be paired together.
O: From where do you draw inspiration?
M: A lot of random things inspire
us: cities that we’ve lived in and visited, Tokyo, Berlin, Barcelona,
old photographs, army surplus, buildings and furniture.
O: You lived in Tokyo before moving to Toronto, Canada. How does the experience of living in Tokyo influence your work?
M: Though Tokyo has been and still is a huge inspiration to us, there weren’t any styles in particular that we adopted. I guess it’s more of the aesthetic in general. There is just such unbridled creativity there. More specifically, I think the attention to small details and finishing on our bags was really a result of seeing it on a lot of our favorite things in Japan.
O: When it comes to handbags, do you think expensive equals good?
M: Really, it depends on your definition of expensive. In terms of the super-pricey high-end designer bags, I assume for the most part, they are of the highest quality and will last for years and years, so in this way, they’re good. Most of them don’t excite me design-wise, though. I don’t even really feel like we’re in the same product category- it’s a different universe. In our world, we really struggle with the balance of trying to keep our prices low enough to be accessible to many women, but at the same time keeping up a high standard of quality. We love to use unusual and unique details (like hand stitching, one of a kind vintage buttons and fabric, etc). Add to that the costs of producing a small line like this locally, it’s difficult.
O: Favorite handbag you’ve ever designed for jack&marjorie?
M: At the moment, it’s the Boy Peter (pictured left). Lately, I’ve been using this bag almost every day. It’s very functional, the perfect size for me, and I love how it hugs the body. But I’m hoping it will be de-throned by one of the new spring bags coming out soon!
O: What type of women would you like to be seen carrying your handbags and sporting your accessories?
M: Just women who are carrying it because they love it.
O: Little known fact about jack&marjorie?
M: I’m not sure much of anything IS known! Hmm, maybe that our names aren’t Jack and Marjorie, it’s just the company name? That is definitely our most-asked question.
O: Where can Omiru readers buy your designs?
M: At the moment, the stores that stock our bags are listed on the website. Online, you can find us at Beklina.com. It’s also possible to order bags through us. We promise to get our webshop up and running by the time the spring stuff comes out. In the meantime, send us an email at info at jackandmarjorie dot com. We do sometimes have items in stock that customers can purchase.
Want more? View the latest jack&marjorie collection at http://www.jackandmarjorie.com.
Posted by Melody on February 1st, 2007 in Designer Profiles, Features |
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