Academy of Art University graduate designers presented concise collections of clear vision–and execution. Who should you keep your eyes on?  Omiru’s top three picks for up-and-coming design talent:

Andrea Vance, MFA Textile and Fashion Design
Andrea opened the show with a collection of beautiful yellow and black dresses featuring blown-up images of the structure and silhouettes of Japanese bamboo basketry.  Despite the loud patterns, each of the dresses exuded a whimsical sort of grace.  As the patterns became more modern so too the cut of the dresses.  A fun element was the use of neon yellow and orange radios as headpieces - whimsical and charming.

Jiyoon "Lydia" Yeom, MFA Knitwear Design
Inspired by nature’s spirit, Jiyoon Yeom presented beautifully crafted knitwear in a wide range of colors and fabulous textures.  Layering techniques on sleeves of one pattern over another added a richness and almost gypsy spirit to her collection.  We took note of the collection’s punkishly graceful lines, which lent a deep and unexpected sophistication to knitwear.  Accesories included fabulous colorful and overstated knit bangle bracelets in hot pinks and oranges.

Color Palette:  Neutrals mixed with purples, blues, peaches, and reds.

Silhouettes:  Narciso’s traditional architectural suits (a must for every season) were accompanied by minidresses, smock dresses, loosely fitted blouses, and a cocoon-shaped bubble hemmed coat.  Silhouettes were either small-over-big, with a fitted top and a voluminous bottom, or small-over-small.  Narciso emphasized the waistline through a skintight fit at the waist instead of the more common use of the belt.

For men, Narciso created structured suits–and even a blazer-on-shorts combination.  Of note was the extremely narrow jacket lapels for men.

Accessories Report:  For women, a wide fabric belt, often constructed with self fabric.  For men, narrow-to-medium width ties.

What’s Wearable: The voluminous sleeve seen on many of the blouses is kind to those with heavy upper arms.  And for those blessed with stellar legs, Narciso’s miniskirts and minidresses are quite fetching.

For men, the jackets with narrow lapels work well on men of small to average build.  Men with an athletic shape, however, should opt for a thicker lapel for visual balance.

What’s Not Wearable:  For women, roomy, straight-up-and-down smocks make you look larger than life.

Color Palette:  Diane von Furstenberg went island-hopping with her color choices, adding reds, yellows, oranges, greens, and rich blues to a palette of neutrals.

Silhouettes:  Dresses stole the show. Asymmetrical dresses, maxi dresses, empire waist dresses, tunic dresses, sheath dresses, t-shirt dresses, and Diane’s signature wrap and shirtdresses.  Waistlines ranged from near the hip (drop waist styles) to the natural waistline to below the bust (empire waist styles).  Keeping on trend, Diane showed high-waisted wide leg pants, shirtdresses with cuffed sleeves, and maxi dresses.  Of note were the matching jacket and skirt combinations–sure to be a hit on the retail floor.

Accessories Report:  Scarves tied around the head, an off-center fedora, oversized square-shaped sunglasses, and long, jeweled necklaces.

What’s Wearable:  Figure flattery favorites included the high-waisted pants, the wrap styles, and the well-cut shirtdresses.

What’s Not Wearable:  Big prints on floor-length dresses can be overwhelming on small frames.  Wear with caution.

What’s Wearable:  Just about everything, right down to the knee-length skirts (universally flattering).

What’s Not Wearable:  Not applicable for this collection.

Color Palette:  Creams and tans, accented by stark black and white.

Silhouettes:  Loose and drapey, and ruled by controlled volume.  Skirts, often featuring a bubble hem, dominated the collection–both mini and knee-length.  Pants and shorts were high waisted and cut with a generous leg.  Sleeves were equally voluminous, with kimono and pouf styles.  Of note was Doo Ri’s looser emphasis on the waist than other designers for Spring 2008.

Accessories Report:  Minimal jewelry adorned the models.

What’s Wearable:  Favorites include (1) a floor-length silk charmeuse gown with elegant, almost Narciso-circa-2003-like seaming on the torso, (2) a hip-length belted trenchcoat, and (3) high waisted pants–great for long-waisted women everywhere.

What’s Not Wearable:  Watch the "power" shoulderline on some of the jackets–there’s enough room there for a shoulder pad party.

Color Palette:  Neutrals with splashes of color: green, orange, and metallics.

Silhouettes:  Controlled volume was the key to this collection.  While silhouettes toyed with the concept of volume, they did so in a restrained way, keeping only one part (e.g. the sleeves, the pant legs) big. The minidress and mini skirt featured prominently, as did high-waisted shorts and pants. 

Accessories Report:  The belt at the natural waistline, cloche-style hats, oversized round sunglasses, and lace-up sneakers and boots.

What’s Wearable: The gowns.  Of note was (1) a flowy woven-pattern floor-length gown with a halter neckline, and (2) a draped grecian-inspired metallic floor-length gown.  Simply gorgeous.

What’s Not Wearable:  Large all-over geometric prints are tough to pull off, especially if you’re petite.

Color Palette:  Upon a palette of blacks, whites, tans, and greys, the collection reached out to golden olive, a primal red, and metallics–gold leaf and a green tinged silver.  Small geometric prints worked to create a tribal feel to the collection.

Silhouettes:  The military-tinged Proenza Schouler silhouette centers on the waistline and the legs.  Short skirts, high heels, and the belt placed at the natural waistline combine to create the illusion of two-mile-long legs.  Key classifications included: the short short skirt, the vest, the poufy skirt, the kimono sleeve, the oversized collar, and the belt.

Accessories Report:  Round oversized sunglasses, belts sitting at the nautral waist, and cavalry hats from milliner Albertus Swanepoel.

What’s Wearable:  The vest-over-vest layering is great for short-waisted women, as it visually elongates the torso.  And the belt at the waistline works wonders for women with boyish figures, as it helps to create that waistline.

What’s Not Wearable:  Short short skirts are tough for those with less-than-perfect legs.  And be careful with the gold leaf garments.  They’re beautiful, yes, but oh-so-hard to wear–for your figure and your pocketbook. 

Previous Proenza Schouler Fashion Week Coverage from Omiru:
Fall 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Proenza Schouler
Spring 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Proenza Schouler
Fall 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Proenza Schouler
Spring 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Proenza Schouler

Color Palette:  Felt more like Fall than Spring, with blacks, browns, and olives accented by royal blue, dusky pink, and bronze.

Silhouettes:  Silhouettes were cut loose, though the volume was often anchored at one point on the dress–be it the waistline or the shoulder.  Draping and pleating, along with the dropped waistline, befit the ancient Roman theme of the collection.  Classifications included tunics, bubble hemmed tops, column dresses, and drapey togas.

Accessories Report:  Ornate, blocky tiled necklaces adorned the models’ necks.

What’s Wearable:  The best pieces in the collection were, as expected, Vera’s eveningwear.  Of note was a beautifully draped chiffon floor-length gown, black in front, and a yellow-olive in back.

What’s Not Wearable:  Be careful with all-over metallics and satins–as they’re unforgiving on the figure.

Silhouettes:  Dresses, dresses, dresses.  Mini dresses, maxi dresses, tunic dresses, shirtdresses, tulip skirt dresses, sheath dresses, and even smock-like dropped waist dresses.  While dresses dominated the collection, skirts also made a strong showing.  Of note were the prairie-style tops and skirts, skirts and dresses with pockets, and the square shaped jackets.

Accessories Report:  Minimal.  Models sported sandal shoes befitting the light, fluid collection.

What’s Wearable:  A square shaped jacket over a day dress is always chic.  You also can’t go wrong with a dress with pockets.

What’s Not Wearable:  Mid-calf length skirts and dresses are difficult to wear.