Posts filed under 'Runway Reviews'
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: A leather belt with a square buckle (in black and brown), worn above the waist on the ribcage, showed up on numerous pieces: a black loose dress, a black trench coat with fur, a blue chiffon dress, a brown short-sleeved coat, a sparkly black dress, a black chiffon layered mini-dress, a grey and black patterned silk dress. Dresses of all sorts – both streamlined and loose-fitting – also dominated the collection.
Color Palette: Black, grey, brown, goldish yellow, blue, and some white.
Silhouettes: Baggy was common theme. It influenced the dresses, trousers, skirts, and coats.
Accessories Report: Thin black headbands worn with a ponytail, long scarves.
What’s Wearable: There were far more wearable items than not. We could see the dresses and military-style jackets at fancy soirées.
What’s Not Wearable: MC-Hammer-esque puffy trousers are better left on…MC Hammer. And though we can all appreciate some fur, one all-fur jacket with a high collar looked more grizzly than girly.
February 4th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Tights, tights, and more tights. Black opaque tights were paired with dresses, pants, and even open-toed heels.
Color Palette: Can we say black overload? A brown bow (on a black dress) and a white chiffon turtleneck (under a black jacket) were in sight.
Silhouettes: Loose dresses, skinny trousers, and cropped jackets with quarter-length sleeves.
What’s Wearable: Cropped jackets, chiffon turtlenecks, a black tube dress with a brown bow, a black lace dress.
What’s Not Wearable: Nothing Too unwearable here. This piece hardly qualifies as un-wearable to many, but women who don’t like to dress like their men might not like the white button-down shirt with tuxedo stripes.
February 4th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: The trenchcoat is back but it no longer screams “Inspector Gadget†or “Columbine.†Instead, these men’s and women’s coats with high popped up collars, fur, and quality textures shout “Aviator,†“Military,†and most importantly, “Chic!â€
Color Palette: Heavy emphasis on grey and black, but some mustard yellows, browns, navy blues, and military greens showed their hues.
Silhouettes: Long and cropped coats, A-line skirts, slim trousers, and a few loose chiffon dresses.
Accessories Report: No jewels were in sight, but handbags were prominent. For women, we saw maroon, grey, and black wristlet clutches and jumbo leather satchels. One man carried a weekend black leather satchel resembling a bowling ball bag. Possible trend alert here.
What’s Wearable: Almost everything. Kenneth Cole did a wonderful job of designing real clothing for real people (Did he steal our Omiru concept?!). Especially wearable are sophisticated skirt suits, heavy coats, and loose sweaters.
What’s Not Wearable: I can’t imagine a non-military man sporting the half suede, half leather green and black boots.
February 4th, 2006
Last weekend, Omiru attended a fashion show and anti-violence rally produced by P.A.R.T.I. Squad, or Positive Alternative Recreational Teambuilding Impacting Program. Known for cultural diversity training and mentoring programs, P.A.R.T.I. Squad dedicated the evening to the memory of Irwin Dillon, a P.A.R.T.I. Squad volunteer who lost his life while reportedly trying to break up a fight last December.
The style of the night was unmistakably Urban. Common
themes throughout the show included halter tops, deeply draped
necklines, and miniskirts. Silhouettes were generally body-conscious
and tightly clung to the models’ curves. Colors, like that of the Spring 2006 collections, tended to be neutral, with forays into bright turquoises, blues, greens, and oranges.
Designers featured in the show included Felix Harris (Minoca), Latoya Skinner (Chan.nel Karama), Cynser (Baysik Clothin’ Co), Nikki D Vine (L.I.P. - Live in Peace), Keana Dollar (High MaintNance), Vladimir Ulyashin (Body Wear by Nina), Dominique Giselle (Giselle), and Osofo Clothing store. Our friend, designer Goldie Chan of goldiechan clothing headlined the show.
"The spirit and dedication behind the show was truly noble. I’m glad to have been a part of it," said Chan.
Photo Credit: Daniel Kwan
January 19th, 2006
Background on Black Coffee: Black
Coffee is the brainchild of designer Jacques van der Watt, who is known
in his native South Africa for his mysterious yet feminine creations.
Key Takeaways: Black
Coffee’s collection made heavy references to traditional Japanese
culture such as obi belts, kimono-style dresses and canvas flats.
Color Palette:
Beige, taupe, black and white colors emphasized an Asian influence;
some of these muted colors were contrasted with rich hues such as
burgundy and red.
Silhouettes: The
unusual cuts and lines of van der Watt’s pieces helped to differentiate
the label from many others. Black Coffee truly caught our eye with
unusual takes on layering (a structured knee-length jacket paired with
a flowy, asymmetrical skirt) and shape (tunics with three tiers of
ruffles at the bottom).
Photo Credit: Ling Kong
Accessories Report: Canvas slippers on the women; wooden beaded necklaces; printed obi belts; necklaces with coin-shaped pendants.
What’s Wearable: Black Coffee proved that, despite overt ethnic references, this collection could still be wearable.
With this top, Black Coffee has truly gone full circle:
November 1st, 2005
Lights, Camera, Action! Hot Chocolate’s sixties hit "I Believe in Miracles" brightened the room as the show started off with swimwear such as plunging, space-dyed maillots for women, and super-short swim trunks for men in psychedelic citrus shades.
Key Takeaways: The show was full of references to nature, such as water-blue chiffon dresses, floral-print suits and jackets in earthy colors.Domingo also succeeded well in doing what he does best–couture gowns–as well as suits for women and edgy jackets for men. Overall, Joseph Domingo’s show was one of the top highlights of SFIFW.
Silhouettes: In swimwear, plunging maillots for women and supershort trunks for men; Fitted skirt and pantsuits for women; boxy jackets for men, worn on a bare chest; deep-V dresses for women; flouncy cocktail dresses with tiered prairie skirts or accordion pleats for women. We loved the thoughtful details, like the green "leaves" that made up the sleeves of this dress:
Accessories Report: Necklaces and bracelets made of clusters of resin beads; silver dagger necklaces (one of which Domingo himself wore); flower-shaped costume jewelry; glass beads. Models wore their hair long and loose.
One way to turn heads:
Photo Credit: Ling Kong
October 31st, 2005
Background on Cari Borja:
This Gen Art San Francisco Fresh Faces alum started her collection
while getting her doctorate in anthropology in Berkeley. After her
collection — a compilation of more than 40 outfits — was presented at
fashion week, a very pregnant Cari stepped out to receive an
overwhelming round of applause.
Photo Credit: Ling Kong
Key Takeaways: "I
was inspired by my daughter," Borja told us after the show. "She’s two
years old and she dresses herself in [different] shapes and colors."
Borja captured youth through her choice of colors for the collection,
as well as with the playfulness of ruffled hems.
Silhouettes: Tiered ruffle babydoll dresses, ruffle cardigans with ruffled sleeves, hooded, ruffled camisoles. Did we mention ruffles?
Photo Credit: Ling Kong
Accessories Report:
Gold sandals on every model, dangly earrings, bunches of tangled
necklaces and bracelets, gold necklaces with tassles. We also saw
various-sized pom-poms made of yarn and worn in the manner of flower
pins.
What’s Wearable: A gold babydoll dress with tiered ruffles.
Photo Credit: Ling Kong
October 27th, 2005
Photo Credit: Cary Wun
Background on Elena Vasileva: As a child in Russia, Elena Vasileva learned to knit. A degree from FIDM and many years later, she proffers a line of knitwear made exclusively with yarn.
Photo Credit: Cary Wun
Key Takeaways: This was by far the most creative collection we saw in the Fresh Faces show. Knitting’s obviously not just for grannies anymore!
Color Palette: Space-dyed fabrics and burnt orange, pewter, lavender, burgundy, cream and taupe.
Silhouettes: Exaggerated puffy sleeves, super-short skirts, and, for once, a new take on enhancing the bosom: Rather than doing the traditional low-cut top, Vasileva decided to make full use of undercleavage.
Photo Credit: Cary Wun
Accessories Report: Medusa hair and superlong extensions; knitted leg warmers; separate neck adornments
What’s Wearable: Shrugs.
Is this the vision of a space-age cowgirl?
October 25th, 2005
Background on Rachel Mara: Rachel Mara, which debuted in Spring 2002, looks to rare fabrics for inspiration. The result: a very wearable collection that feels both organic and feminine.
Key Takeaways: The most wearable collection of the entire show. Indeed, we loved the fabric, most of which we couldn’t identify from the audience–its texture added dimension to some of the otherwise ordinary clothing.
Color Palette: Neutrals, and the basic black and white.
Silhouettes: We spotted lots of bermuda shorts. (A possible trend for Spring 2006?)
Accessories Report: Long beaded necklaces, pearl chokers, string belts, gloves.
What’s Wearable: Everything.
Is there too much going on here? You decide:
October 25th, 2005
Background on Hengst: Susan Hengst’s innovative line of clothing hails from the Mission district of San Francisco.
Key Takeaways: As
sexy mood music played, models sashayed down the runway in everything
from pantsuits to pleather hot pants. Designer Hengst enjoys combining
designs with unexpected fabrics–a windbreaker made of silk taffeta,
for instance.
Color Palette: All colors–the bolder, the better.
Silhouettes: Arabian-inspired pants and culottes; shirred jersey separates; sporty windsuits.
Accessories Report:
Belts in gold rope or leather, cinched with a geode belt buckle;
aviator sunglasses. Our favorite was a random gold-and-pewter stuffed
pleather ball that looked like it might have been a pet’s toy before it
made the show.
What’s Wearable: White wide-leg pants.
We definitely noticed these green pleather shorts, held together by a bow-tie:
October 24th, 2005
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