Posts filed under 'Runway Reviews'

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Rachel Comey

Rachel Comey models
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All  

Key Takeaways: Rachel Comey is single-handedly bringing back the sun visor. Well, we’re not so sure the  accessory was ever really in style, but either way, it’s on our radar for Spring 2007. Another interesting trend in Comey’s collection was gigantic trouser cuffs, seen on Bermuda length shorts and short pants. If you can’t picture how big the cuffs really are, we’ll just say they’re large enough to double as safe havens for your cell phone. As for shoes, look out for chunky platform heels next Spring.

Color Palette:
Comey’s overall color scheme was rather muted, so imagine the following hues in the most toned down versions of themselves: purple, brown, red, light peach, black, army green, teal, navy blue, and white.

Silhouettes: If you haven’t noticed so far, volume is a BIG trend at Fashion Week, and naturally, Comey’s collection followed suit. Controlled volume appeared in everything from bermuda shorts, scoop-neck dresses, triangle bikini tops, tube tops, button down shirts, dresses with deep v’s, both in the front and back, trapeze jackets, tiered tank tops, crocheted vests, and cigarette pants. The most unique piece, however, was a navy blue jersey dress with a large bow protruding from the chest area.

Accessories Report:
Belts of all kinds–thick, thin, and medium-sized–appeared on the catwalk. Some were black, one dared to be hot pink. Shoes included studded flats with ankle straps, chunky wedge sandals, and round-toe pumps (a throwback to previous seasons). Along with the straw visors (black or tan), all models sported next-t0-black lipstick on their lips. Comey had an interesting take on the  thick-belt-at-the-waist trend, designing a black cinched belt with a tan front and a unique buckle.

What’s Wearable: As native Californians, we’re all over the easygoing jersey knits and the loose shapes.  And if you tend to gravitate towards darker hues, Comey’s collection is ideal.

What’s Not Wearable: Sure, visors are good for blocking the sun, but we’re not sure how realistically they will translate to the streets.

September 12th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Ashleigh Verrier

Ashleigh Verrier Spring 2007
Photo Credit: Coutorture

Key Takeaways: Key trends from Fall 2006 continued to influence Ashleigh Verrier, a recent graduate of Parsons and a former apprentice at Proenza Schouler.  The idea of controlled volume permeated her collection, which featured fabric manipulations from ruffles to ruching.  Verrier also continued to work with higher waistlines and cropped jackets and capelets, all hallmarks of the Fall 2006 season.

Color Palette: Neutrals (black and white) were joined by gorgeously wearable shades of mustard, orange, dusky rose, sky blue, and ocean blue.

 Silhouettes: Form fitting silhouettes characterized Verrier’s collection: bustiers, pencil skirts, tailored tops, skinny shorts, and fitted dresses.  A sprinkle of A-line styles rounded out Verrier’s collection.  Of note are the sailor shorts (nautical’s still big), thick straps on tops and dresses, the extra-long placket, wide lapels, capelets, bows, and tops with peplums.

Accessories Report: Strappy platform sandals and espadrilles adorned the models’ feet.  Necklaces were either shown thoughtfully layered or with large dangling gems.

What’s Wearable: We loved a flapperesque navy and white beaded dress (pictured), a flutter sleeve belted striped dress, and a half-sleeve cream coat with oversized collar and pockets.

What’s Not Wearable: Steer clear of the horizontal striped skirt with hidden pleats, which we found unflattering even on the model.  We’d also avoid the fabric-blocked top with wide straps and a long peplum, which accentuates thick arms and thick middles.

1 comment September 12th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Baby Phat

  Baby Phat Spring 2007
Photo Credit: Coutorture

 Key Takeaways: Funky layering with a liberal sprinkle of vamp.  We saw many separately wearable pieces but no sense of cohesion within the line. Detailing ranged from cowl to circle-cut necklines and tweeds mixed with opulent satins.  Swimsuits are featured as summer-wear with short kimono sleeve coverings.  Suit sets mirror the kimono detailing, while dresses feature short flowy tails.

Color Palette: Classic Indy 500 colors rev up this collection with diva reds, whites and blacks.  Neutrals such as beige and grey are accented by maroon.

Silhouettes: Top-heavy outfits feature more conservative pieces on top and risque bottom pieces such as swim suit bottoms and form-fitting cropped pants.

Accessories Report: As always, Kimora Lee Simmons (or just KLS) focuses heavily on accessories including the requisite large funky earrings with bright detailing, oversized structured bags, small fanny packs reminiscent of those of Gucci and the occasional-odd banana leaf shaped hair hat.
 
What’s Wearable: Delightful small pockets flank either side of skirts or jackets and create a balanced look on pieces that may lack a focal point.

What’s Not Wearable: The colored tights (purple, blue) featured in the show may cause those without model-thin legs to appear larger then they should.   We’d also recommend passing on the banana leaf  hats.
 

1 comment September 11th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Alexandre Herchcovitch

Alexandre Herchcovitch Spring 2007
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All

 Key Takeaways: Halloween is not quite here, but it seems Herchcovitch drew some inspiration from his favorite costumes for his collection, which he described as inspired by Ndebele tribe of Zimbabwe. Don’t be spooked out, it’s nothing you can’t handle; we appreciated the skull adorned police cap, no doubt inspired by his fave necklace, which coincidentally features a skull.  True to form, we saw lots of color, lots of wackiness, and whole lotta attitude in this collection. And, if you thought every pattern in the world had been discovered, you’re wrong because Herchcovitch has come up with intricate patterns that rival the gorgeous stained glass windows of a European cathedral.

Color Palette: No colors in this collection are subtle: red, blue, yellow, white, green, black, pink, and lime green.

 Silhouettes: Much like its color, the silhouettes in this collection are not for the shy. We viewed tight overalls, loose off-the-shoulder dresses, boat-neck and cap-sleeve frocks, cropped trapeze jackets, flowy skirts, cuffed shorts, loose trousers, military-style jackets, pleated skirts, ultra-loose suits with cropped and cuffed pants.

Accessories Report: Aviator shades shielded the eyes of all the models, as did police caps marked with a skull emblem and Charlie Chaplin-style hats. Brooches held shawls in place, below-the-knee boots stomped the catwalk, and short leather gloves à la Michael Jackson graced the models’ hands. The rarest accessory, though, was a really thick and colorful bead-adorned necklace - if you can call it that, since its thickness rivaled that of a neck brace.  Doubt that these will really catch on with the masses, but they were visually interesting nevertheless.

What’s Wearable: Some pieces, if worn more modestly, can be pulled off in the streets. The cropped trapeze jacket was very chic, and a daring gal could definitely sport the military-like red jacket with buckles.

What’s Not Wearable: We’d recommend steering clear of the thick necklaces and hula-hoop-like belts, which we fear might make you look like a circus performer. Some of the patterns are too loud for the streets (we’d like them better in moderation), and we also spotted a pair of overalls that should be returned to its farmer owner immediately.

September 11th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Jenni Kayne

Jenni Kayne Spring 2007
Photo Credit: Coutorture

 Key Takeaways: Designer Jenni Kayne apparently shares the same dilemma as most women when it comes to clothes: do we cover up in loose clothing, or do we put it all out with barely-there duds? Along with tiny bikinis, skin-tight one-piece bathing suits, short bubble skirts, and even shorter shorts, Kayne also stuck with what seems to be a theme for Spring Fashion Week 2007: volume. So while the designer wants you to participate in the latest loose trend, she also encourages you to bare it all. 

 Color Palette: Mellow yellow, bright yellow, maroon, navy blue, black, grey, and brown.

Silhouettes: Dresses took center stage with loose-fitting empire-waist minis, deep v-necks, Grecian off-the-shoulder styles, and v-necks with airy short sleeves. Mini-shorts, bubble skirts, bikinis, cropped blazers, and grandpa cardigans also made their way into the collection.

Accessories Report: Accessories at Kayne’s show were limited to wide leather belts worn at the natural waistline, silk fabric tied into a bow also at the waist, large square totes, and J-Lo-esque hats that come all the way down and bunch around your face.

What’s Wearable: Kayne made an effort to design each piece so that it could walk off the runway and into your closet. While we wouldn’t go sporting the tiny bikini to the mall, everything else translated really well to the streets (and ballrooms).

 What’s Not Wearable: The peach-colored cropped leather jackets are not necessarily unwearable, but they may make you feel like a character straight out of Grease!

September 11th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Tracy Reese

Tracy Reese Spring 2007
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All

Key takeaways: Can we say va-va-voluminous? Watching Reese’s show, one couldn’t help but notice that each piece in the collection - be it cargo shorts, trenchcoats, or turtlenecks - was loose and airy (even the toothpick-thin models looked a tad less famished). Reese also made full use of bangles and cuff bracelets, often piling them on in threes or fours. The designer also made it quite clear that bling (aka sequins) is here to stay.

 Color Palette: Initially, the collection was rather broody with black, white, and grey.  But midway, we felt a burst of color with fuchsia, hot orange, green, and red. Occasionally, loud sparkles glittered their way down the catwalk.

Silhouettes: It was all about volume for Reese. Sleeves, pant legs, bodices, and skirts were all characterized by a careful use of volume. We saw everything from flowy skirts to bubble dresses with equally bubbly sleeves, loose trousers, loose tunic dresses, strapless pantsuits, off-the-shoulder tops, and even a loose-fitting turtleneck.

 Accessories Report: The models were geared up in colorful bangles, chunky gold hoop earrings, skinny and wide belts (worn at–not below–the waist), and messenger and satchel handbags. The most creative accessory on the runway, however, was a bracelet made of silk and tied with a bow.

 What’s Wearable: Luckily, everything - although you may need to buy a few sizes smaller since the collection was so big on volume. We’re crushing on the loose-fitting turtleneck because they’re such a departure from the everpresent form-fitting versions.

 Celebrity Sightings: Andre Leon Talley (of Vogue) and Carmen Electra (she is so incredibly tiny in person!).

September 11th, 2006

Gen Art San Francisco | Erica Tanov

 
Photo Credit: Drew Altizer

Key Takeaways: This season was about unusual pairings of color, patterns and texture: We spotted jersey on satin, burnt orange combined with plum, and prints mixed in with plaids.

Color Palette: Orange and blue, chocolate brown and lime green, plum, burgundy, orange, champagne.

Silhouettes: Wide-legged pants, boxy jackets, slimming jersey wrap dresses and long, flowy skirts.

Accessories Report: Scarvestied around the head, around the neck, around the waist–anywhere you can dream up.

What’s Wearable: Virtually everything, particularly the beautiful champagne evening gowns included in the collection, as well as slimming wrap dresses and cropped jackets.

What’s Not Wearable: A fringed poncho channeling the year 2004.

May 17th, 2006

Gen Art San Francisco | DEMA

DEMA Gen Art

Photo Credit: Drew Altizer


Key Takeaways:
Volume is key: puffed sleeves, bubble skirts, and wide legged pants.  Oversized collars, deep v-necks, 3/4 sleeves, and double breasted coats make us feel like we’re watching NY Fashion Week.

Color Palette: Neutral shades, with splashes of green, purple, maroon, and mustard.

Silhouettes: 3/4
length tops, high waisted styles, deep-v necklines, long sleeved
styles, hemlines at the knee, bubble skirts, and a lot of
layering.

Accessories Report: Boots, colorful scarves, sweater caps, and dare we say a poncho!

What’s Wearable: Most everything.  Love the slouchy cardigans!

What’s Not Wearable: We’re not fans of the dark stockings–they make the looks older than they have to be.

May 16th, 2006

Gen Art San Francisco | Galya Rosenfeld

Galya Rosenfeld
Photo Credit: Drew Altizer

Key Takeaways: Nothing about this collection was dull. Loads of shine and asymmetrical patterns made this the perfect ending to the GenArt fashion show.

Color Palette: Black and white were prevalent, but not boring. Purple, yellow, red and blue were interesting diversions from the black and white.

Silhouettes: The whole enchilada: miniature booty shorts, loose summer shorts, deep v-neck stretch tops, belly-baring crop tops, sleeveless tops with frills at the ends, boatneck dresses with full skirts, and dresses with asymmetrical bottoms.

Accessories Report: Bright-colored and studded handbags. Sandals and pointy pumps adorned the models’ feet.

What’s Wearable: About 3 or 4 pieces were definitely street-worthy: a white boatneck dress with full bottom, a similar white boatneck minidress, a black studded loose dress, a v-neck black miniskirt.

 What’s Not Wearable: Some of the color combinations might save you a spot on a "Fashion Don’t" list. 

May 15th, 2006

Project Runway Season 2: The Calm Before the Storm

All photos courtesy  of BravoTV.com


Fans of the fashionista reality show can rest a little bit easier now that the final three have been announced: Daniel V., Santino and Chloe.  This past Wednesday, the final four designers (the three, plus Kara) had to design an evening gown suitable for Iman, the majestic supermodel/diva/wife-of-David Bowie.  With such a daunting challenge before the honorable opportunity to show at fashion week, you’d think the designers would pull out all the stops – but think again.

I have to agree with the judges when they said they were “underwhelmed.”  The pieces they showed were flat out boring.  Take a look:

Chloe’s Dress:  Yawn…

 Santino’s Dress:  Didn’t they already do the figure skating costume challenge?

 Kara’s Dress:  Double yawn.  I understand why she was eliminated.

Daniel V’s Dress:  I guess it’s a "winner."


Out of all of them, Santino (although it was a bit horrendous) had the most interesting gown.  Everyone else had pretty designs, but as Santino said, they were “safe.”  They were as exciting as watching curling on the Olympics.  It’s as though the designers thought too inside of the box, and they put all their focus on the schematics of tailoring rather than vehicular creativity.  

Nonetheless, there HAD to be a winner. Daniel V. took the golden pin cushion on this challenge.  After seeing the Project Runway collections at fashion week, I am sure a lot of people are going to be a little bit disappointed.  We shouldn’t compare them to those of last season, but after seeing ingenious collections by Jay McCarroll and Kara Saun, it’s kind of hard not to.

The outcome will certainly be interesting.  Daniel, Santino and Chloe’s collections shown last week all managed to stay in the same vein.  But if I had to choose a winner, I am going to go with Daniel…or Chloe…or maybe Santino.  I have no idea.  Stay tuned for the winner!

7 comments February 17th, 2006

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