Posts filed under 'Runway Reviews'
Photo Credit: Dan Lecca for Mercedes Benz
Key Takeaways: Easy-to-wear combinations of skirts, blouses, sweaters, and dresses in vivid shades of preppy pinks, greens, and corals. Key trends included: mini dresses, maxi dresses, square shaped jackets, dresses with pockets, and colorblocking.
Color Palette: Building on a neutral palette, the collection alternated between preppy greens and pinks, noble greys, corals, and blues.
Silhouettes: Dresses, dresses, dresses. Mini dresses, maxi dresses, tunic dresses, shirtdresses, tulip skirt dresses, sheath dresses, and even smock-like dropped waist dresses. While dresses dominated the collection, skirts also made a strong showing. Of note were the prairie-style tops and skirts, skirts and dresses with pockets, and the square shaped jackets.
Accessories Report: Minimal. Models sported sandal shoes befitting the light, fluid collection.
What’s Wearable: A square shaped jacket over a day dress is always chic. You also can’t go wrong with a dress with pockets.
What’s Not Wearable: Mid-calf length skirts and dresses are difficult to wear.
Previous Cynthia Steffe Fashion Week Coverage from Omiru:
Fall 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Cynthia Steffe
Spring 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Cynthia Steffe
Spring 2007 Backstage Interview: Cynthia Steffe
Fall 2006 Fashion Week Runway Review: Cynthia Steffe
September 7th, 2007
Photo Credit: NY Magazine
Key Takeaways: Vena Cava’s Spring 2008 collection vacillated between the 1930s and the 1970s, with classic depression-era silhouettes (think: drapey bias cuts and nipped in waists) interspersed with styles of the 70s (think: empire waistlines, the mini, and the maxi). Key trends included high-waisted pants and skirts, emphasis on the waistline, the minidress, the maxi dress, belts, ruffles, and the color purple.
Color Palette: Neutrals with shorts of yellow-green, seafoam, dusky rose, and shades of purple.
Silhouettes: Bottoms were high-waisted and were loosely cut for a voluminous look. Ruffled louses and tie-neck tops followed suit with the volume theme, while belts provided a counterpart to the volume and defined the waistline. Dresses largely fell under either the mini or maxi category, but 30s style knee-length dresses also made an appearance. Vena Cava’s jackets were either cut cropped (often with elbow-length sleeves) or long and sleeveless.
Accessories Report: Belts played a key role in Vena Cava’s collection–of note were the thin, drapey, multistranded belts. Tights replaced leggings for Spring.
What’s Wearable: Favorite pieces include a seafoam green blouse with an asymmetrical gather at the neckline and an art deco style black column dress. The perfect casual chic look? A white, empire-waist minidress paired with an olive cropped closureless jacket.
What’s Not Wearable: Maxi dresses aren’t inherently unwearable, but they’re tough to pull off without looking like you just walked out of the 70s. Same goes for the drapey palazzo-style pants.
Previous Vena Cava Fashion Week Coverage from Omiru:
Backstage Interview with Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock of Vena Cava
Spring 2007 Fashion Week Runway Review: Vena Cava
September 6th, 2007
By Priyanka Ghosh and Julie Gulfer
Key Takeaways: Munthe plus Simonsen’s use of leather, lace and chiffon made for a collection that exuded urban femininity. Key trends included: pleated skirts, the china neck collar, luxe sweaters, the military jacket, and ruffles. And true to their roots, Munthe plus Simonsen featured copious amounts of ethnic detailing and bohemian prints.
Color Palette: Can we say blue? Peacock, navy, indigo, azure and turquoise were complemented by black and charcoal.
Silhouettes: Big over small: Lacy Renaissance style blouses over black skinny pants in leather and denim and slim knee-length shorts. Big over big: Airy puffy sleeved caftans over sagging wide leg trousers and calf-length pleated asymmetrical skirts.
Accessories Report: Black leather galore—thigh high boots, newsboy caps, long gloves and wide wrap-around belts. Also of note was the short boy-cut hair on all of the models.
What’s Wearable: We loved the collection of loose flirty tops, from simple monochrome satin blouses to intricately embroidered tunics and caftans. The subtly tailored floaty fabric flatters women of all shapes.
What’s Not Wearable: The calf-length pleated skirts in stiff fabrics enlarged the hips and managed to make the lithe models look boxy and frumpy. And while we liked the relaxed style of the wide leg trousers, we do not recommend sagging them from the hips.
March 11th, 2007
By Priyanka Ghosh and Julie Gulfer
Key Takeaways: The title of this Mads Nørgaard show was Speak Up, and the theme was that “what you wear should support you in your ways and beliefs.†This 80s and 90s inspired collection stayed true to its theme with a range of provocative statement-making fashion geared towards the liberal-minded urban youth of Europe. Key trends included: the mini skirt, logo tees, mock-neck and turtleneck collars, color blocking and off-the-shoulder tops.
Color Palette: Three color schemes dominated: (1) Basic black, white and grey, (2) Bright primary colors of yellow, blue, green and red, and (3) Metallics.
Silhouettes: In a fashion week characterized by volume and layering, Mads Nørgaard’s collection felt pointedly slim and sleek. Straight hip-hugging mini skirts were paired with seamless mock-neck zip jackets. Snug long-sleeved cotton tunics were slipped on over neon leggings and tights. Light jersey knit sweatshirts worn off the shoulder were worn with high-waisted patent leather skinny pants.
Accessories Report: Leggy models strutted down the runway in short skirts and tight tops, while their necks and heads were covered in the politically charged black hijab veil. This accessory demanded that the audience acknowledge the undeniable intersection between fashion and politics. Other accessories included leg warmers, ski caps and scarves tied around the neck in a bandit-like fashion.
What’s Wearable: We adored the black jersey tunic worn with one sleeve off the shoulder, as the off-the-shoulder style can elongate even the shortest of necks.
What’s Not Wearable: Steer clear of the neon yellow and orange spandex tights, as they are liable to super-size legs and thighs.
March 11th, 2007
By Priyanka Ghosh and Julie Gulfer
Key Takeaways: Clean lines and soft fabrics made for a very wearable collection. Elise Gug’s conservative yet chic collection is reminiscent of the innocent elegance of young Audrey Hepburn (down to her signature up do). The monochromatic collection featured key trends of cashmere knits, quilted top coats, tapered trousers, and pencil skirts in lightweight silk taffeta.
Color Palette: Black and chocolate, along with earth tones—brown, tan, beige, sandy taupe and some burnt orange—dominated the runway. Soft heather grey also made an appearance.
Silhouettes: Sleek, tailored pieces such as slim cut, straight legged trousers and high-waisted pleated skirts contrasted with breezy lightweight dresses and loose fitting A-line winter coats. We also took note of the collection of black evening gowns with voluminous skirts and cinched waists accented by oversized sash-tie bows.
Accessories Report: Mufflers and gloves with dark fur trim and neutral colored pashminas acknowledged the cold autumn temperatures of Scandinavia. We also spotted chunky-heeled platform boots and skinny belts in worn black and brown leather.
What’s Wearable: We loved Elise Gug’s collection of loosely belted jersey dresses with natural waistlines. Gug’s dresses hug the right curves without clinging to the wrong ones. The loose three-quarter length sleeves hide large arms, while the U collar flatters the neckline.
What’s Not Wearable: While the plunging, v-shaped backs on the evening gowns looked exquisite on the models, this revealing cut requires women to have uber-toned backs with blemish free skin and flawless posture.
March 10th, 2007
By Priyanka Ghosh and Julie Gulfer
Key Takeaways: Inwear’s Autumn 2007 collection explored the dichotomous nature of femininity. The Inwear woman is strong and sexy sporting menswear that boldly outlines her curves, while soft and sensual wearing sheer blouses and frilly skirts. Key trends included: plaid bottoms and outerwear, sweater jackets, laser cut detailing, lace, and geometric patterns.
Color Palette: Lots of black, along with somber grey, purple, navy and burgundy
Silhouettes: Silhouettes were sculpted and ranged from slim to voluminous. Precisely tailored power suits created a long and lean look perfect for the office. Belted knit cardigans were worn over high-waisted pencil skirts with sexy front-center slits. Evening wear consisted of slinky knee-length sheaths in rich silk and satin along with lace-trimmed 50s style poodle skirt dresses.
Accessories Report: Patent leather ankle boots, leather shoulder bags with gold buckles and zippers, fingerless biker gloves, fishnet stockings, striped knit scarves and chunky art deco necklaces.
What’s Wearable: This collection produced some basic knits that every woman should own: the burgundy keyhole shirt, the heather grey belted cardigan and the crème colored cowl neck sweater. We also adored the navy double-breasted trench dress because of its extreme versatility and cute oversized buttons.
What’s Not Wearable: Most of this collection was very wearable, though we would stay away from some of the short-short printed boy shorts that cling to the caboose and look like underwear.
March 10th, 2007
By Priyanka Ghosh and Julie Gulfer
Key Takeaways: Rützou’s collection was all about contradictions in silhouettes, colors and detailing. Strong simple lines merged with layered volume. Smooth silks and satin combined with beaten wools and basic cottons. Rützou paired somber muted hues with seductive splashes of bright colors. Romantic embroidery details were juxtaposed with rebellious leather and stiff metal.
Color Palette: Army green, ink blue and steel grey black were accented by vivid tones of red, purple and parrot green.
Silhouettes: Big over small. Long-sleeved frocks with loosely gathered pleats were worn over capri-length tights or cuffed pedal pushers. Free flowing peasant tops with wrist length sleeves cinched just below the shoulders were worn over skinny pants. Tight bolero vests in textured fabrics accompanied A-line tanks. Details included embroideries, stylized prints, strips of silk and leather, mirrors and metallic accents.
Accessories Report: Platform pumps, elbow length gloves in bold primary colors, and textured knee-length socks. Long hair ironed straight and paired with an oversized leather headband also dominated the runway.
What’s Wearable: Cropped bolero vests with mirror and embroidery detailing worn over A-line tanks flatter the bust while hiding a tummy. We also took note of the long sleeves on the frocks which visually slim and lengthen the arms.
What’s Not Wearable: If Lil’ Kim and Sporty Spice designed a clothing line, their centerpiece might be a pair of wide legged, bright green satin drawstring pants with a shiny white racer stripe down the side. We’re not fans of this look. We also thought that the long scarf made entirely of leather gloves was a bit over the top. Gloves look great on hands. Let’s keep them there.
March 10th, 2007
Key Takeaways: Cynthia Steffe’s sweetly chic Fall 2007 collection presented familiar silhouettes and details, such as oversized jackets and cardigans, dresses with pockets, and the Spring 2007 favorite, skinny pants.
Color Palette: Black, white, grey and medium beige, complemented by lavender, magenta and shades of purple.
Silhouettes: Loose shapes ended at the knee, and were paired with slender black stockings or pants layered underneath. Controlled volume made appearances at the waistline, the hemline, and on sleeves. Of note were the dresses, which featured sleeves and/or pockets, and the jackets, which distinguished themselves with oversized sleeves and/or collars.
Accessories Report: Wide bangles in crème, clear and silver mesh as well as thin belts with finger-width silver polished buckles.
What’s Wearable: Victorian-inspired high necked dress shirts will be elegantly wearable this fall.
What’s Not Wearable: Avoid mixing two strong patterns, such as florals with stripes, unless you have a good eye for pattern.
February 12th, 2007
Key Takeaways: Minimalism, as appropriate for the house of Calvin Klein. Francisco Costa showed structured, oversized outerwear over slim, curve-hugging dresses in simple shapes.
Color Palette: Browns and greys, tempered with beige. Hints of metallic shine made an appearance in the minimalist collection.
Silhouettes: Big over small. Outerwear–in the form of funnel neck coats with curved side seams and 20s style cocoon wrap coats–enveloped models in slim cut dresses. Thick cropped funnel neck sweaters brought volume to looks with body-skimming tops and skirts. Controlled volume was seen at the sleeves, waistline, and hemline.
Accessories Report: Simple black gloves, tights, and ladylike handbags.
What’s Wearable: For those who aren’t afraid to show some curves, the entire collection could easily be translated for the streets. We’re all over funnel and oversized turtleneck necklines for those with long necks.
February 10th, 2007
Key Takeaways: Zac Posen’s focused his 1940s tailoring sensibility on polished jackets, suits, and his signature dresses. Silhouettes were generally slim, though Zac shook things up with volume added in just the right places.
Color Palette: Black, black, and more black, with greys, white, and shots of royal purple and blood red.
Silhouettes: Zac Posen showed mainly big-over-small silhouettes,such as a voluminous military kimono sleeved coat with a slim skirt. Pants were skinny and high-waisted. A number of babydoll looks, complete with ruffles and volume, made their way onto the runway. Fitted cocktail looks were ruffled and featured sheer-over-solid layering. Zac’s signature eveningwear featured curve-hugging gowns with fishtail hemlines. Detailing to note included oversized collars, ruffles, and pocket and tab detailing.
Accessories Report: Long, elbow length black gloves accessorized the sexy, tailored looks.
What’s Wearable: One of our favorite looks was a peach-pink ruffled blouse with flutter sleeves paired with a burgundy tulip skirt. We also loved a cropped ruffled black jacket paired with an above-the-knee skirt.
What’s Not Wearable: A poufy fur coat with ruffled, horizontal detailing–tough for a stick-thin model to pull off, near impossible for Real Women to wear.
February 9th, 2007
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