Posts filed under 'Runway Reviews'
Key Takeaways: If there were inhabitants on the moon, Yohji Yamamoto’s fall collection would be a perfect fit. From the street b-boy to the woman-on-the-go, this is the perfect metro garb for those who like to look stylishly sporty, but don’t want to actually get physical.
Color Palette: A gravel surface of grays, blacks and browns are shot with a temporary dose of primary colors red and blue. Colors may be sparse, but with the manipulated panache he adds, the basic shades become full of character.
Silhouettes: For the men – baggy, yet fittingly masculine. For the women – clean shapes and appropriate necklines that have an emphasis on urban modesty, but still maintain a playful sexiness.
Accessories Report: Hats of all shapes and sizes: beanies (with and without pompoms), ivy caps, paper boy caps, fedoras – they’re all there. In addition, sporty knit scarves from the small to the gigantic drape well on both men and women. As always, bags (for both men and women) complement the clothes and warm, knit gloves (with and without fingertips) exude street-smart charm. There was also a recurring appearance of this clunky plastic bead jewelry that was surprisingly very chic—not cheap and toy-like.
What’s Wearable: Every single piece (layered or not) in this “urban moonwalker†collection is undeniably wearable. It’s obvious that Yamamoto designs boil over with urban flair. His pieces of outerwear like his trenches, blazers and even his shedding mohair woman’s poncho, seem very fashionable and functional. Their greatest attribute to his zip-ups is their two-way capabilities – very fashion-savvy, yet refined. To go with his Adidas blood, he gives a nice set of tracksuits, which are great for any person. For women, the trend of sweaterdresses continues. Even though the pieces are fairly basic, they exude an extravagant texture – very thoughtful and effortless.
What’s Not Wearable: The sequin appliqué is tolerable, but the scalloped feather look was didn’t hit the mark. Other than that, Yamamoto proves that you can never go wrong with simplicity.
February 10th, 2006
Key Takeaways: Once again, the powerful working woman makes an appearance on the runway – but this time, it is a little less fashion-forward and a lot more fashion-function. Chai utilizes his minimalist eye and steps it up one level to deliver a sleek, self-assured collection.
Color Palette: There is a wonderful balance of light colors (creams and beiges), neutral shades (blacks and browns) and the occasional deep color (reds.) Some of the colors stand out even more on some of their basic, yet stylish, prints.
Silhouettes: Plunging necklines compete fairly with modishly exaggerated collars. The high necks are wonderfully appealing, while the wraparound smocks adhere to give an angelic form. Trousers strut confidently on hips, while Chai’s coats are remarkably constructed to accentuate girl power.
Accessories Report: Elbow-length gloves add a bit of class to many of the garments, but ornamental pieces of fashion were quite bare in the collection.
What’s Wearable: Plain and simple – Chai’s outwear is chic and to the point. The coats in various lengths are modestly flirty, but they still exude classiness. More than that, the knit sweater jackets with offset buttons are something to keep your eye out for. All in all, Chai makes wonderful pieces (from everyday work wear to evening garb) that work on the runway and on everyday bodies.
What’s Not Wearable: Although he does make outfits that work, some of his dresses look like “Designing Women†negligees – one of them even bears resemblance to maternity wear. Also, the unfinished hems on some of the skirts didn’t work well with some of his more polished looks – and what’s with the overuse of the black stockings?
February 10th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Feminine ease is the underlying theme for this Rebecca Taylor collection. None of the pieces make a fuss; they are simply effortless, and yet so chic. Sheer blouses and dresses are sexy in the most innocent sense. One can imagine a Rebecca Taylor protege lunching in one of these outfits.
Color Palette: Neutral tones such as beige, off-white, light pink, with a dusting of brown, blue, black.
Silhouettes: Button-down short sleeve sheer blouses; loose, sheer, long-sleeve dresses; high waisted tweed skirts; flowy trousers; cropped jackets; feminine short trench coats.
Accessories Report: A brown and camel-colored shoulder purse is feminine and earthy; thin belts with square hardware sit prettily at the waist; string belts with mini knit balls hanging at the end are a nice alternative to the structured belts we’ve been seeing everywhere; the shoes are an open-toed platform a bit reminescent of the 70’s.
What’s Wearable: The shoes are ideal for a sunny shopping day, while the sheer blouses (with a cami underneath), skirts, and dresses are perfect for lunching.
What’s Not Wearable: A lingerie-like sheer mini dress is perfect for the bedroom but not the outdoors. Likewise, a pair of silk daisy dukes is also best worn in your home.
February 10th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: For Carmen Marc Valvo, it does matter if it’s black or white. From the depths of the dark runway, models dressed in crisp white and sharp black demand attention. Classic shapes – power suits and strapless dresses – have been spiced up and given edge.
Color Palette: Black, white, with an occasional light blue, copper, and royal blue.
Silhouettes: Strapless dresses (short and long), cropped and long coats, pant suits, classic button down shirts, boatneck dresses.
Accessories Report: Long, knit scarves, aviator shades, and black opaque tights are paired with chic evening gowns.
What’s Wearable: The pieces in this collection are so simple and classic that each can be worn with great ease. A trend that might catch on soon is the pairing of a long, knit scarf with an evening gown. The contradiction of the everyday accessory (the scarf) and the night dress is not only attractive but practical.
February 10th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: This time it’s all about contrasts – knit beanies with elegant dresses, leopard print with polka dots, and further clashing patterns. Every so often there was a hint of minimalism in single-colored ensembles, but the underlying theme was funky mismatched designs.
Color Palette: Though there were many hues in this collection, none were as loud as their fellow patterns. There was an even distribution of black, white, and grey, with random patches of red, rustic orange, lavender, navy blue, and watercolor blue.
Silhouettes: Some long-sleeve button down collared shirts with a bow at the neck, an occasional military style jacket, loose skirts and shorts, cropped shirtdresses, oversized blouses, wrap dresses with loose blouses underneath, and baggy jumpers.
Accessories Report: This Anna Sui lady is flight bound; she has a loud-patterned suitcase to match her stylish getup. Also in tow, round sunglasses (though not as huge as MK’s), beanies, fisherman hats, small purses worn as fanny packs on the side of the hip, big and long medallion-like necklaces, tights with patterns on them, and round toe boots in loud colors and patterns.
What’s Wearable: One must really pick apart every single outfit on Sui’s runway in order to make them semi-wearable. Each piece might be able to be worn on the streets, but it must not come close to the other loud pieces paired on the models in this collection. One accessory that will be bitten off from this show is the long medallion necklace.
What’s Not Wearable: If thrown together, almost none of these pieces can be worn, especially a matronly dress with long sleeves, high neck, and a tie at the neck. Some of the boots with patterns are also better left on the runway.
February 10th, 2006
Another update to Omiru’s Mid-Week Fashion Week Trend Recap and its Part II:
Tuxedo Detailing: Goes along well with the Powerful Working Woman trend…
Monique Lhuillier, Oscar de la Renta
Sweaterdresses: These just went from oh-so-comfy to oh-so cute!
BCBG, Lacoste
Chain Handles on Bags: Fashion seems to have gone from chain-happy charm bracelets to chains on handbags.
Heatherette, Narciso Rodriguez, BCBG, Luella Bartley
Variations on the Little Black Dress: This season, the LBD is anything but boring. Look for poufy skirts, pintucking, and more!
Monique Lhuillier, Carolina Herrera, Narciso Rodriguez
February 9th, 2006
Key Takeaways: Sassy, sexy and striking – the only way designers Richie Rich and Traver Rains work. An overwhelming amount of stylish deconstruction walks down a piano key runway as they pay homage to New York City. There is a hodgepodge of fused looks included in this collection – think futuristic kabuki New York punk rockers sent back into time to retro 1960’s London.
Color Palette: From daring uses of reds, greens and blues to the extravagant use of the French-inspired black and white stripes – if you can name a color, chances are it was included in this collection. But the main palette lies in their use of loud patterns. With inspiration drawn from such a major metropolitan area, Heatherette had a lot to work with. The segmented pieces included: 1.) clean graffiti prints in playful reds, blues and greens, 2.) French-inspired black and white stripes, 3.) soft, yet confident, peaches, pinks and creams – and a whole lot more!
Silhouettes: Much like their color palette, Heatherette’s silhouettes are all over the place. For the most part, they are flirty (for the women) and slim (for the men.) Slip dresses with high waists complement Fashion Week’s emphasis on the waistline. Heatherette also includes a cinched waist on their wild debutante dresses, which are quite flattering and youthful (some of them are overflowing with feathers.) On the flipside, they still remember that not all women are girly. They provide quirky 60’s inspired street wear and bohemian avant-garde garments.
Accessories Report: Standing out from their potpourri of accessories is their chain-adorned handbag – stylish and extremely functional. Oversized circular framed glasses give a bit of quirkiness, while a landslide of novel head wear pieces include fedoras and mime-like berets. For some of their more “formal†attire, simple clutches contrast with busy Chrysler building printed dresses. They also add a couple of Chihuahuas in the mix for some Paris Hilton pizazz.
What’s Wearable: All pieces are laden with Heatherette style: unapologetic and impulsive. The primary wearable aspect from this collection is the loud prints. City skylines, “big apples†and music notes give fun concepts for basic screen print tees and graffiti-based garb. In addition, the veritable cornucopia of conceptual street wear ranges from Park Avenue gaudiness to the modishly trashy rock and roller. When pieced apart, there are some things that aren’t too costumey. For one, the vests support fashion’s current direction. Same goes for the high-waisted dresses and knitted, down home outerwear. Although they are a bit busy, they are wearable.
What’s Not Wearable: Some of the debutant dresses are a bit “tacky 80’s prom†– same goes with their superfluous use of feathers. Even if Naomi Campbell wore this purple ostrich monstrosity, it was difficult to take seriously. The whimsical nature of Rains and Rich is very appealing, but sometimes it’s too convoluted and haphazard – especially with their mixing and matching of Pucci-esque patterns.
February 9th, 2006
Key Takeaways: All in all, a well-edited "safe" collection. Nothing too outrageous here. Key trends included (1) toggle coats (love em!), (2) oversized detailing, (3) narrow shapes, and (4) fur trim.
Color Palette: Completely composed of neutrals, mostly black and white.
Silhouettes: Silhouettes were pretty narrow at Cloak. Lots of slim cuts and "tailored" layering. We saw narrow ties, narrow jacket lapels, and miniature collars. However, we did see oversized detailing, especially on the coats and jackets. Pockets, collars, and closures were exaggerated in size. Other items we saw: chunky knit turtlenecks, sweater jackets, track jackets, motorcycle jackets, and safari-inspired jackets.
What’s Wearable: Literally everything. We especially appreciated the toggle coats. We’ve been pushing these for months, and we’re glad they’re finally getting the attention they deserve.
What’s Not Wearable: Our only recommendation–lighten up on the black!
February 9th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Luca Orlandi has opted for cleaner lines, flowier pieces and an entirely different set of colors, resulting in an uncharacteristically neutral fall collection.
Color Palette: A refreshing spectrum for fall: winter white, watercolor blue, chocolate brown and cream set against steely greys and neutrals.
Silhouettes: Buttonless coats, skinny trouser pants, pencil skirts, ruffled blouses and tie-neck tops.
Accessories Report: Leopard stoles, oversized ombre enamel necklaces.
What’s Wearable: A simply elegant wool camel coat reminiscent of Zoran.
What’s Not Wearable: Oddly smocked empire waist cocktail dresses. You don’t want to look like an oversized preschooler!
February 8th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Cinch your waist with a bow, an obi or a skinny belt for a flattering hourglass shape.
Color Palette: Steely greys and neutrals, with pops of rich color such as garnet and charmeuse.
Silhouettes: Dresses and skirts with wide belts with exaggerated buckles. Tulip skirts and cropped jackets are both here to stay for at least one more season. Stiffer, more ornate fabrics — like embroidered silk and jacquard — replaced flowy spring fabrics.
Accessories Report: Uber-wide belts are back! This doesn’t mean, however, that you have to put your skinny belts away — both are wearable this season. Bows were huge at the show as well, manifesting themselves as large ties at the neck and also as cute adornments elsewhere on the body.
What’s Wearable: An above-the-knee strapless dress with black-and-white chevron stripes. So classically Bill Blass.
What’s Not Wearable: Full-sized ballgowns with wallpaper patterns.
February 8th, 2006
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