Posts filed under 'Runway Reviews'
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: This collection only reinforces why Zac Posen is one of the hottest new designers and why Sean “Diddy†Combs has a financial interest in the hip label. Swanky evening gowns demand the utmost attention, especially at the bottom where they drape dramatically. Zac has spiced up the traditional skirt suit, button-down white shirt, minidress, knit sweater, hooded sweatshirt, and tube top dress.
Color Palette: A Zac Posen girl would definitely not stand out because of her use of color. Every color used – navy blue, brown, black, ivory, white – is dimmed down.
Silhouettes: Zac takes the term wide and makes it even bigger. Long dresses are slim at the bodice and extremely baggy at the base. The classic white button-down shirt has been also expanded in the arms. Pantsuits are tailored close to the body and have slightly high shoulders. A Tarzan-style dress, cropped jackets, and high waists are also present.
Accessories Report: Leather belts, mini clutches, knit caps perched at the back of the head, and satchel-style bags made noise on the runway.
What’s Wearable: The jackets, pantsuits, and some simple dresses are worthy of sporting.
What’s Not Wearable: The wide-bottomed evening gowns are a bit too fancy even for the Oscars, while white shirt with large sleeves is too theatrical for non-actresses.
February 13th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Fur is everywhere in this collection, and it serves as outerwear, trimming, and collars. Fur coats show up both long and cropped and are two-toned. Dramatic dresses were also prevalent, most long and movable.
Color Palette: Everything from black, blue, yellow, brown, fuchsia, off-white, green, and silver.
Silhouettes: Most pieces, especially the gowns, don’t cling to the body. There were many spaghetti-strapped short dresses, oversized coats, skirt suits, and an occasional tight trouser.
Accessories Report: Leggings made their comeback. Gloves and clutch purses also were seen. Some models carried (yes, carried) pashmina scarves. Long and thin silver necklaces had a pencil-thin silver object at the base. Arm warmers were also in sight.
What’s Wearable: The fur coats will keep anyone cozy on a chilly night. Many of the skirt suits can double as office and going-out wear. Only a handful of the dresses could pass as cocktail-wear.
What’s Not Wearable: A tiered lace shrug looks more like a peacock’s wings than an article of clothing. White tube dresses with a strap extending from one shoulder to the back of the neck looked like an Easter Sunday dress gone bad. Sure, it’s innovative for the runway, but doesn’t translate well into the streets.
February 13th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Phi has taken the shoulder pad to a whole new level. Instead of sitting straight on the shoulder like most of them do, this collection’s exaggerated shoulders make the model’s sporting the blazers and coats look as if they are shrugging their shoulders. Alongside the black, Phi has fused patterns that are busy yet serious.
Color Palette: Mostly black, with white, green, and purple patterns.
Silhouettes: We see more knee-length flowy dresses than we do trousers. Although the dresses are loose, they give more of a night vibe with their puffy sleeves and collars.
Accessories Report: Black lace-up boots paired with dresses mean business. A black leather handbag held from the bulky strap is simple but has a strong presence.
What’s Wearable: The exaggerated shoulder may be dissonant to the ears of those who despise shoulder pads, but this look is very subtle and can be worn on fancy occasions. The black trousers are comfortable and loose: perfect for work. A black knee-length coat with white trimming and large buttons is also suitable for work and going out.
What’s Not Wearable: Some of the asymmetrical patterns and matronly silhouettes are too loud for the streets. Some look like they belong on “A Little House on the Prairie†cast members. One royal purple skirt suit might even be too conservative for a nun.
February 13th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Vivienne Tam has once again created a modern fusion of East and West dressing.
Color Palette: Black wool, grey herringbone, leopard fur, electric blue, plum, purple and cream.
Silhouettes: Blouses, skirts and jackets emblazoned with the signature VT logo; fur-trimmed, belted sheath dresses; frocks topped with sequined dragon patterns; fitted wool skirt suits.
Accessories Report: Hair pulled half-back into severe buns, black hosiery and gold, chain-link purses.
What’s Wearable: Trench coats constructed out of traditional Asian floral jacquards.
What’s Not Wearable: A plush black coat that would likely serve better as a bathroom rug.
February 12th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: In addition to the expected black-tie gowns and fur coats, Gilles Mendel attempted to add more of an urban look to his collection with pieces like leather jacquard jackets and knit skullcaps.
Color Palette: Black, pewter, slate grey, garnet, plum, burgundy, brown, taupe, aubergine, gold, off-white.
Silhouettes: Cocktail dresses hemmed in fur; leather jacquard coats; wrap dresses with a sheer chiffon trim; tiered column dresses, long, kimono-style dresses with sheer lantern sleeves.
Accessories Report: Knit skull caps, leather and suede gloves, knee-high boots, black-rimmed eyes, a complete absence of jewelry.
What’s Wearable: Our favorite J. Mendel dress was a flowy, silver silk column dress gathered at the bust as a lopsided bow.
What’s Not Wearable: The odd-looking and pointless fur-hemmed cocktail dresses. Why not wear a fabulous fur coat instead?
February 12th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways:
Pamella Roland has mastered the art of seductive formalwear. Her new
collection is sure to make more than a few appearances on the red
carpet.
Color Palette: Typical eveningwear colors–black,
chocolate brown, bronze, winter white, cream, grey, burgundy,
and navy–some in monotone jacquard or multicolored paisley prints.
Silhouettes: Plunging
V necklines anchored with satin bows, strapless sweetheart necklines,
high-waisted mermaid skirts, fur-trimmed leather jackets, and
wide lapel collars on everything from a tie-waist
wool jacket to a paisley-print brocade coat.
Accessories Report: Wide belts with large buckles; sporty squarish shades; berry lips and smoky eyes.
What’s Wearable:
A halter top with a ruffled keyhole neckline is the perfect change of pace for nighttime.
What’s Not Wearable: A floor-sweeping, hooded black fur coat, unless you want to look like black bear.
February 12th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Peter Som’s inspiration for this show was said to be My Fair Lady, which translated into updated eveningwear and tuxedos in primarily black and white.
Color Palette: Black, white, a range of steely greys, royal blue, pastel blue, cream.
Silhouettes: Som’s tiered, poufy ballgowns were a study in volume. We also saw capes and coats in astrakhan fur, tuxedo jackets paired with long shorts and frocks with shirred, strapless sweetheart necklines.
Accessories Report: Bows, more bows, wide belts, black hosiery, black beaded necklaces and T-strap sandals.
What’s Wearable: Lantern-sleeve blouses (pinafore optional).
What’s Not Wearable: Black-and-white fur capes and astrakhan coats–unless you’re Cruella De Vil.
February 11th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways:
This relatively new line (which began in 2005) combines the
sophistication of runway offerings with the attitude and sensibility of
the street.
Color Palette: Rose, lavender, navy blue, winter white, black and pewter lame.
Silhouettes: Shearling-lined hoodie jackets, pencil skirts, tapered jeans, sweater-trimmed skinny pants, shirred blouson tops.
Accessories Report: Leg warmers, stiletto pumps, wide belts, newsboy hats and berets, voluminous, teased boudoir hair.
What’s Wearable: Virtually everything is wearable on the street–this label is, after all, designed by "Jenny from the block."
What’s Not Wearable: The curved press-on nails that adorned the models’ delicate fingers.
February 11th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: The veteran designer had fun experimenting with volume for the next season while keeping all other flourishes to a minimum, making for a classic Donna Karan collection.
Color Palette: Not surprisingly, black was a favorite color of this collection, as were bold shades of purple, gold, camel and red, all paired with electric purple on the lips.
Silhouettes: Plunging V-neck cocktail dresses with shirred front panels; tie-waist wrap coats with oversized lapels; jewel-encrusted, netted cutouts on bodysuits and sheaths for a trompe l’oeil effect.
Accessories Report: The face was a blank canvas, save for shocking fuschia on the lips. For shoes, it was all about high heels–the platform is back as a bigger trend than ever!
What’s Wearable: A black netted bodysuit, encrusted with jewels, completely sexified a power pantsuit.
What’s Not Wearable: As much as we tried to be open to new color pairings, we cringed at someone’s decision to pair purple lips with a red houndstooth jacket.
February 11th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: "For fall, I was inspired by the romance and ruggedness of a modern shooting party," Ralph Lauren said of his new collection.
Color Palette: Muddy browns, dark grey, forest green; black, gold and blue for formal dressing.
Silhouettes: A gaming- and hunting-inspired twist on the gamine/gamin look: Equestrian-styled jackets and pants, double-breasted suits, fedoras with feathers. For night, Lauren’s classic taffeta ballgowns in blue tartan plaid.
Accessories Report: Thigh-high brown suede riding boots, floppy hats, fedoras and berets, leather gloves all accentuated the feminized ‘huntsman’ look.
What’s Wearable: Well-fitted equestrian-style suit jackets.
What’s Not Wearable: We shivered when we saw the turtleneck unitards. That, and painfully drab, ill-fitting articles that epitomize the de rigueur dumpster look.
February 11th, 2006
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