Posts filed under 'Runway Reviews'
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All
Key Takeaways: Reem Acra has decided to add a sheen to Spring. Her romantic eveningwear maintains a consistant flirty and flowy feel with half of the collection featuring a sheen finish. Classic chiffon, brocade, starburst embroidery and beading, and even dip-dye techniques take this collection from from lovely to luxurious. As in Fall 2006, Acra has included at least one piece in a blood red (see above) that is so striking, we can’t help but feature it. We also loved a pale cream grecian inspired dress that featured a cape that flowed back into the dress. Vraiment romantique!
Color Palette: Warm beiges, golds and browns predominate with a range of additional colors including white, blue, grey, pink-lavender and, of course, blood red.
Silhouettes: Puff sleeves dominate the more casual chiffon-based pieces, and trapeze shapes also appear in very Mod-ern dresscoats. However, most of the line drives home a very romantic, yet structured, feel with the stiffer fabrics. Skirt and dress bottoms range from knee-length styles to long floor-sweeping A-lines that seem to glide across the floor to sheath dresses with small trailing trains.
Accessories Report: How does a designer encourage an audience to focus on only the clothes in the collection? Simple. Do away with all handbags and jewelry and retain the same neutral flesh-tone on the straps of the models’ stiletto shoes.
What’s Wearable: We adored the simple wide chiffon straps and the lovely delicateness of the full length dresses that barely swept the floor.
What’s Not Wearable: If large chested, do avoid a very low V-neckline. Only you can prevent wardrobe malfunctions.
September 12th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Volume was definitely in the picture again, but this time it was mainly in the sleeves. Tuleh paired blouses with loose sleeves with clean, A-line knee-length skirts; the juxtoposition of the airy tops and form-fitting skirts was a winner. Another key trend was cocktail dresses with bubble bottoms and tight bodices. Trousers were noticeably less prominent in this collection–it’s clear Tuleh wants to give women back their femininity.
Color Palette: Main colors were black and white, but beige, orange, and pink made an appearance.
Silhouettes: A-line skirts, chiffon blouses with voluminous sleeves, loose trousers, double-breasted coats, crewnecked houndstooth suits with cap sleeves, boatnecked dresses with bubble bottoms, mini skirts, wrap jackets, loose shirtdresses, mini cardigans, and strapless dresses with frills.
Accessories Report: Accessories were minimal, allowing viewers to focus on the clothes. One model was seen wearing a black feather hat with a square crown. Slick black belts worn at the waist accompanied long dresses, skirts, and shirtdresses.
What’s Wearable: Almost all items were wearable, especially the A-line skirts, shirtdresses, and the cocktail dresses.
What’s Not Wearable: Some blouses were completely sheer, so if you’re not comfortable baring it all, try a tank top underneath. Cocktail dresses with bubble skirts feel too flamboyant for many parties, unless you’re going to the Oscars.
September 12th, 2006
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All
Key Takeaways: Rachel Comey is single-handedly bringing back the sun visor. Well, we’re not so sure the accessory was ever really in style, but either way, it’s on our radar for Spring 2007. Another interesting trend in Comey’s collection was gigantic trouser cuffs, seen on Bermuda length shorts and short pants. If you can’t picture how big the cuffs really are, we’ll just say they’re large enough to double as safe havens for your cell phone. As for shoes, look out for chunky platform heels next Spring.
Color Palette: Comey’s overall color scheme was rather muted, so imagine the following hues in the most toned down versions of themselves: purple, brown, red, light peach, black, army green, teal, navy blue, and white.
Silhouettes: If you haven’t noticed so far, volume is a BIG trend at Fashion Week, and naturally, Comey’s collection followed suit. Controlled volume appeared in everything from bermuda shorts, scoop-neck dresses, triangle bikini tops, tube tops, button down shirts, dresses with deep v’s, both in the front and back, trapeze jackets, tiered tank tops, crocheted vests, and cigarette pants. The most unique piece, however, was a navy blue jersey dress with a large bow protruding from the chest area.
Accessories Report: Belts of all kinds–thick, thin, and medium-sized–appeared on the catwalk. Some were black, one dared to be hot pink. Shoes included studded flats with ankle straps, chunky wedge sandals, and round-toe pumps (a throwback to previous seasons). Along with the straw visors (black or tan), all models sported next-t0-black lipstick on their lips. Comey had an interesting take on the thick-belt-at-the-waist trend, designing a black cinched belt with a tan front and a unique buckle.
What’s Wearable: As native Californians, we’re all over the easygoing jersey knits and the loose shapes. And if you tend to gravitate towards darker hues, Comey’s collection is ideal.
What’s Not Wearable: Sure, visors are good for blocking the sun, but we’re not sure how realistically they will translate to the streets.
September 12th, 2006
Key Takeaways: Key trends from Fall 2006 continued to influence Ashleigh Verrier, a recent graduate of Parsons and a former apprentice at Proenza Schouler. The idea of controlled volume permeated her collection, which featured fabric manipulations from ruffles to ruching. Verrier also continued to work with higher waistlines and cropped jackets and capelets, all hallmarks of the Fall 2006 season.
Color Palette: Neutrals (black and white) were joined by gorgeously wearable shades of mustard, orange, dusky rose, sky blue, and ocean blue.
Silhouettes: Form fitting silhouettes characterized Verrier’s collection: bustiers, pencil skirts, tailored tops, skinny shorts, and fitted dresses. A sprinkle of A-line styles rounded out Verrier’s collection. Of note are the sailor shorts (nautical’s still big), thick straps on tops and dresses, the extra-long placket, wide lapels, capelets, bows, and tops with peplums.
Accessories Report: Strappy platform sandals and espadrilles adorned the models’ feet. Necklaces were either shown thoughtfully layered or with large dangling gems.
What’s Wearable: We loved a flapperesque navy and white beaded dress (pictured), a flutter sleeve belted striped dress, and a half-sleeve cream coat with oversized collar and pockets.
What’s Not Wearable: Steer clear of the horizontal striped skirt with hidden pleats, which we found unflattering even on the model. We’d also avoid the fabric-blocked top with wide straps and a long peplum, which accentuates thick arms and thick middles.
September 12th, 2006
Photo Credit: Coutorture
Key Takeaways: Funky layering with a liberal sprinkle of vamp. We saw many separately wearable pieces but no sense of cohesion within the line. Detailing ranged from cowl to circle-cut necklines and tweeds mixed with opulent satins. Swimsuits are featured as summer-wear with short kimono sleeve coverings. Suit sets mirror the kimono detailing, while dresses feature short flowy tails.
Color Palette: Classic Indy 500 colors rev up this collection with diva reds, whites and blacks. Neutrals such as beige and grey are accented by maroon.
Silhouettes: Top-heavy outfits feature more conservative pieces on top and risque bottom pieces such as swim suit bottoms and form-fitting cropped pants.
Accessories Report: As always, Kimora Lee Simmons (or just KLS) focuses heavily on accessories including the requisite large funky earrings with bright detailing, oversized structured bags, small fanny packs reminiscent of those of Gucci and the occasional-odd banana leaf shaped hair hat.
What’s Wearable: Delightful small pockets flank either side of skirts or jackets and create a balanced look on pieces that may lack a focal point.
What’s Not Wearable: The colored tights (purple, blue) featured in the show may cause those without model-thin legs to appear larger then they should. We’d also recommend passing on the banana leaf hats.
September 11th, 2006
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All
Key Takeaways: Halloween is not quite here, but it seems Herchcovitch drew some inspiration from his favorite costumes for his collection, which he described as inspired by Ndebele tribe of Zimbabwe. Don’t be spooked out, it’s nothing you can’t handle; we appreciated the skull adorned police cap, no doubt inspired by his fave necklace, which coincidentally features a skull. True to form, we saw lots of color, lots of wackiness, and whole lotta attitude in this collection. And, if you thought every pattern in the world had been discovered, you’re wrong because Herchcovitch has come up with intricate patterns that rival the gorgeous stained glass windows of a European cathedral.
Color Palette: No colors in this collection are subtle: red, blue, yellow, white, green, black, pink, and lime green.
Silhouettes: Much like its color, the silhouettes in this collection are not for the shy. We viewed tight overalls, loose off-the-shoulder dresses, boat-neck and cap-sleeve frocks, cropped trapeze jackets, flowy skirts, cuffed shorts, loose trousers, military-style jackets, pleated skirts, ultra-loose suits with cropped and cuffed pants.
Accessories Report: Aviator shades shielded the eyes of all the models, as did police caps marked with a skull emblem and Charlie Chaplin-style hats. Brooches held shawls in place, below-the-knee boots stomped the catwalk, and short leather gloves à la Michael Jackson graced the models’ hands. The rarest accessory, though, was a really thick and colorful bead-adorned necklace - if you can call it that, since its thickness rivaled that of a neck brace. Doubt that these will really catch on with the masses, but they were visually interesting nevertheless.
What’s Wearable: Some pieces, if worn more modestly, can be pulled off in the streets. The cropped trapeze jacket was very chic, and a daring gal could definitely sport the military-like red jacket with buckles.
What’s Not Wearable: We’d recommend steering clear of the thick necklaces and hula-hoop-like belts, which we fear might make you look like a circus performer. Some of the patterns are too loud for the streets (we’d like them better in moderation), and we also spotted a pair of overalls that should be returned to its farmer owner immediately.
September 11th, 2006
Key Takeaways: Designer Jenni Kayne apparently shares the same dilemma as most women when it comes to clothes: do we cover up in loose clothing, or do we put it all out with barely-there duds? Along with tiny bikinis, skin-tight one-piece bathing suits, short bubble skirts, and even shorter shorts, Kayne also stuck with what seems to be a theme for Spring Fashion Week 2007: volume. So while the designer wants you to participate in the latest loose trend, she also encourages you to bare it all.
Color Palette: Mellow yellow, bright yellow, maroon, navy blue, black, grey, and brown.
Silhouettes: Dresses took center stage with loose-fitting empire-waist minis, deep v-necks, Grecian off-the-shoulder styles, and v-necks with airy short sleeves. Mini-shorts, bubble skirts, bikinis, cropped blazers, and grandpa cardigans also made their way into the collection.
Accessories Report: Accessories at Kayne’s show were limited to wide leather belts worn at the natural waistline, silk fabric tied into a bow also at the waist, large square totes, and J-Lo-esque hats that come all the way down and bunch around your face.
What’s Wearable: Kayne made an effort to design each piece so that it could walk off the runway and into your closet. While we wouldn’t go sporting the tiny bikini to the mall, everything else translated really well to the streets (and ballrooms).
What’s Not Wearable: The peach-colored cropped leather jackets are not necessarily unwearable, but they may make you feel like a character straight out of Grease!
September 11th, 2006
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All
Key takeaways: Can we say va-va-voluminous? Watching Reese’s show, one couldn’t help but notice that each piece in the collection - be it cargo shorts, trenchcoats, or turtlenecks - was loose and airy (even the toothpick-thin models looked a tad less famished). Reese also made full use of bangles and cuff bracelets, often piling them on in threes or fours. The designer also made it quite clear that bling (aka sequins) is here to stay.
Color Palette: Initially, the collection was rather broody with black, white, and grey. But midway, we felt a burst of color with fuchsia, hot orange, green, and red. Occasionally, loud sparkles glittered their way down the catwalk.
Silhouettes: It was all about volume for Reese. Sleeves, pant legs, bodices, and skirts were all characterized by a careful use of volume. We saw everything from flowy skirts to bubble dresses with equally bubbly sleeves, loose trousers, loose tunic dresses, strapless pantsuits, off-the-shoulder tops, and even a loose-fitting turtleneck.
Accessories Report: The models were geared up in colorful bangles, chunky gold hoop earrings, skinny and wide belts (worn at–not below–the waist), and messenger and satchel handbags. The most creative accessory on the runway, however, was a bracelet made of silk and tied with a bow.
What’s Wearable: Luckily, everything - although you may need to buy a few sizes smaller since the collection was so big on volume. We’re crushing on the loose-fitting turtleneck because they’re such a departure from the everpresent form-fitting versions.
Celebrity Sightings: Andre Leon Talley (of Vogue) and Carmen Electra (she is so incredibly tiny in person!).
September 11th, 2006
Key Takeaways: Simple, clean, and classy. A nice range of casual comfort and handsome formality that epitomizes Perry. The garments are airy and invoke a cloud-like attitude. In other words, if there was a fashion show for all the male angels in heaven, this would be it.
Color Palette: Light and breezy tans, whites and browns kiss this collection with sophistication. Modernized argyle prints and stripes also make an unassuming appearance.
Silhouettes: Fitted and tailored to a tee, with an occasional loose fit in all the right places.
Accessories Report: The collection is so clean that any type of accessory would distract from the pieces on the runway.
What’s Wearable: Almost everything is ready-to-wear. For those climates that allow you to wear coats during the spring, the Perry Ellis outerwear is wonderful: the mid-length trenches, the banded collared windbreaker and best of all, the double breasted blazer.
What’s Not Wearable: The see-through button down is a look that not many people can pull off, so try that on only if you are fashionably daring. The square cut trunks may be a little too revealing for American men to wear in public.
September 10th, 2006
Photo Credit: Coutorture
Key Takeaways: The brighter side of the Hamptons Gentleman – strategically placed lines and very soft characterstics that still stay masculine.
Color Palette: Bartlett turns the volume knob of autumnal colors up one decibel higher with tans, olives, grays as well as citrus yellows and oranges.
Silhouettes: A nice contrast of bottoms: loose-fit slacks and fitted shorts are very spring friendly. Complementing tops and savvy blazers broaden shoulders and torsos effortlessly.
Accessories Report: Leather travel duffels and Top-sider shoes are the perfect touch to this yachting gentleman charm.
What’s Wearable: Everything in this collection is fresh. The separates make it realistic enough to translate from the runway to an everyday wardrobe for the man. It’s casual, chic and most of all perfect for spring.
What’s Not Wearable: Two complaints – for one, we saw a baggy windbreaker reminiscent of that of the Members Only club. I know the eighties have been coming back into style, but there is a line that needs to be drawn. Also, the rolled up pants paired with blazers wasn’t necessarily appealing. Unless you’re having a business meeting on a beach, we wouldn’t recommend.
September 10th, 2006
Next Posts
Previous Posts
