Posts filed under 'Runway Reviews'
Photo Credit: New York Magazine
Key Takeaways: The darling Australian duo of Heidi Middleton (Bide) and Sarah-Jane Clarke (Sass) have reinforced their motto of "don’t look too pretty." Instead of combining unusual fabric/leather/finishing choices, they used four basic colors to create contrast and strengthen a sense of uniqueness that they are known for. High U-shaped or choker necklines dominate this collection along with an interesting Greece meets American 80s sensibility seen through such pieces as a high-necked mesh-fronted dress.
Color Palette: In contrast to other collections, which generally feature two or more accent colors, Sass and & Bide showed strong neutrals of black, silver, white, matte gold and solo accents of mustard.
Silhouettes: For those of you who love the fitted and waist-centric silhouette of seasons before, Sass & Bide continue the trend. Lean tanks are combined with large tulip skirts in graphic color combinations. Low pockets on the dresses and thick straps accentuate the boldness of the structured shapes.
Accessories Report: We adored the sweet Roman-esque thin headbands that were combined with messy hair in buns, which added femininity to a slightly masculine line. Large obi-style belts with cording were also spotted (a return of the Japanese-influence?).
What’s Wearable: Comfort is found on the runway in the form of delicate slim knit tanks that can be worn under your everyday work blazers.
What’s Not Wearable: Avoid the bubble skirt silhouette unless you have an extremely straight-hipped figure.
September 14th, 2006
Key Takeaways: We flit, we float, we want to fly away with the romantic gowns that are so exquisitely Carolina Herrera. This season provides a strong balance between past seasons’ menswear-inspired cuts and details and the floaty femininity of Spring 2007. While not a particularly directional collection, Herrera ’s spring line does impress with a number of attractive, wearable pieces, including a ruched jersey blouse and a black and ivory linen dress with oversized collar (pictured).
Color Palette: Have we seen some of these same dusty colors of greys, creams, pinks, reds and blacks in other spring lines? Yes, but with less contrast than seen in other collections.
Silhouettes: Herrera emphasized work-friendly shirts with pencil skirts and flutter-sleeved full-length outfits. Dresses emphasized a natural waistline. Oversized collars and off-the-shoulder sleeves gave classic shapes a bit of a twist. Detailing included embroidery, eyelet, and piping.
Accessories Report: Round Jackie-O meets swim goggle sunglasses in vibrant pinks and strange greys and blacks hid the eyes of the models toting the more work-appropriate outfits. We also spotted thin and thick belts, the odd bracelet, and T-strap sandals in various colors.
What’s Wearable: We have to agree that Carolina Herrera’s signature elegantly flirty full-length dresses are always wearable at the elegant cocktail party in someone’s ritzy loft or a night out at the Met.
What’s Not Wearable: Avoid the sunglasses, which make you look like you just exited out of a Mystic Tan booth and the unflattering horizontal striped palazzo pants.
September 14th, 2006
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All
Key Takeaways: A visit to Tocca’s showroom in Chelsea feels almost like a tropical vacation with the very feminine and cotton-heavy collection inspired by the colorful island hues of the Cyclades, a part of the lovely Greek Islands. Bold graphic prints dominated Tocca’s Spring/Summer collection, along with detailing ranging from eyelet to ruching to embroidery. The dress-dominated collection was made for comfort and embodied a definite casual chic.
Color Palette: Tocca’s line of prints spans the rainbow of colors with a heavy emphasis on brights.
Silhouettes: Dresses and skirts are constructed in classic shapes: fitted blouses with peplums, empire-waisted dresses, wrap dresses, shirt dresses, and bandeau-top dresses.
Accessories Report: We’re crushing on an oversized canvas satchel with a coconut disc bead handle, brass hardware and bamboo support structure. We absolutely adored the bold geometric prints on the satchels, lending them a casually trendy air.
What’s Wearable: Carry around the canvas satchels that are already popular in Tocca’s flagship store in Tokyo, and your groceries will never have felt so fashionable! The Mona Dress ($150) had a gorgeous striped print with contrast fabric on the bottom of the dress and a flattering empire waist. We also checked out the Michelle Dress ($120), whose geometric patchwork of navy and white–with a lime green neckline–embodied a mod 60s feel.
What’s Not Wearable: The Tressa skirt, a short navy and white frilly-cut skirt tragically reminded us of Paris Hilton during the summer. While we didn’t appreciate the frilly skirt silhouette (didn’t we let this one go in 2004?), the print was still lovely.
September 14th, 2006
Key Takeaways: BCBG or "Bon Chic, Bon Genre" (Good Style, Good Attitude) started off fashion week with a wonderfully comfy chic collection that showcased trademark femininity and romantic detailing. Max Azaria’s novel use of elements such as laser cut-outs allow dresses to be futuristic, while sash tie-waists, puff sleeves and the occasional peacock detailing bring them back toward delicate modern sensibilities.
Color Palette: Pale Easter egg-dipped colors such as blues, yellows, pinks and purples dominate this utterly female collection.
Silhouettes: The 60s mod-ballerina has finally arrived. Dance and party in trapeze dresses and baby dolls with fitted waists that both feature gently ruffled skirt hems. Conquistador shorts and skirts reach just above the knee for easy movement.
Accessories Report: Flat and discreet t-strap sandals in neutral colors complement the understated collection, and a lone medium brown satchel is toted down the runway.
What’s Wearable: Flutter sleeves are flattering on almost any arm shape and type.
What’s Not Wearable:
Avoid the high tie-sash waist with gathering unless you’re waiting for a bundle of joy within the next several months.
September 14th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Finally…Spring! With beautiful prints (Omiru hearts Marimekko), Oscar de la Renta’s collection truly embodies the season its being designed for. As with so many other collections, volume was a key trend. In keeping with the bubble silhouette of the season, Oscar directed the volume to move down south to skirts and bottoms of dresses.
Color Palette: White, red, blue (bright and light), yellow, fuchsia, and brown.
Silhouettes: Most of the skirts were voluminous, a throwback to the heyday of 1950s couture. Skirt volume alternated between over-the-top and kept at a minimum, as Oscar showed both fitted styles and bubble silhouettes. Silhouettes of note included cap-sleeve dresses, bubble skirts, trapeze jackets, an 80’s inspired prom-style sweetheart dress with a poof skirt, a bandeau bikini, a Jackie-O-style boatneck dress, the classic shift dress, and a slightly oversized unstructured skirt suit set.
Accessories Report: Square black glasses, white-rimmed glasses, a briefcase-style satchel handbag, many clear bags, and of course, the classic black patent leather belt at the waist.
What’s Wearable: Most of the dresses are wearable, especially the ones will clean details. An evening gown that will translate wonderfully for a formal event is the midnight blue silk sleeveless long dress with a simple scoop neck. Bravo Oscar!
What’s Not Wearable: The intense bubble skirts are too dramatic for a non-celebrity, and we fear that they might make a gal look like she takes herself too seriously.
September 13th, 2006
Photo Credit: Coutorture
Key Takeaways: Bear with us because Marc Jacobs’ Spring collection is chock full of directional elements, the first being a flashback to the flapper era. As seen above in the photo, Jacobs modernized the traditional flapper girl by layering articles such as bubble pants and lace camis. Once again, volume took center stage, especially when it came to the trousers. Metallics also made a comeback, though not in full force (but look out for Jacobs’ Louis Vuitton Mirror Collection in December; it has lots of metallic handbags!). In true Marc Jacobs’ spirit, the collection also featured lots of layering, providing inspiration to stylists and fashionistas everywhere.
Color Palette: Neutral colors (white, khaki, and goregeous greys) dominated, but we spotted purple, orange, peachy-pink, and yellow.
Silhouettes: Baggy men’s trousers (both long and capris), loose men’s-style button-down shirts, tiered mini dresses, bubble dresses with triangle arms and bow details at one shoulder, short sleeved cardigans, and lots of layering.
Accessories Report: Jacobs is all about the head gear. Seems Jacobs’ is not only trying to bring back the flapper style (via a headband with a flower at one side), but he is also trying to replace the big bugged-eyed glasses with square futuristic ones. Metallic handbags (messenger and satchel style) were also spotted, along with caps that look like they’re from Paris 2015.
What’s Wearable: Some pieces can be worn on the streets if they are toned down. Like in so many of the other collections this season, we find exquisitely wearable pieces in Jacobs’ show–but not full outfits. Especially wearable is the outerwear–swing coats, pea-coats, and cardigans.
What’s Not Wearable: We appreciate the over-the-top directionality of this
collection–had it been tamer, it would not have carried the intended
effect. However, tone it down for the streets. All of the cocktail dresses have too much going on for a simple gal. The baggy trousers threaten to make women look like their boyfriends, and the metallic outerwear is quite space-y. Though bubble silhouettes are back in full force for Spring 07, we reiterate our PSA: Wear with caution. We appreciate the novelty of the shape, but the smaller the pouf, the more flattering it will be.
September 13th, 2006
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All
Key Takeaways: Kai Kühne describes his collection in one word as "sharp". We’ll agree that the wide bottoms with cuffs, sash ties and flowy shirts do call us to attention with a nautical-inspired collection.
Color Palette: We imagine a stylish SoHo (NY) / Potrero Hill (CA) flat filled with all of these colors: neutrals in pure white, charcoal grey, brown and beige, with hints of a light army green, silvers and a delightfully sheeny black.
Silhouettes: Draping creates figures and lines that manage to appear both loose and fitted along various lengths (natural waist and hips), while structure influences the sharp lapels and finishing touches.
Accessories Report: See last winter’s trend: necklaces with large knit ball-shapes. We also saw silver chain necklaces and Christina Aguilera-esque open (and closed) peep-toe shoes.
What’s Wearable: Even though it is after Labor Day, the fitted white pants are very wearable option (pair with leather peep-toe shoes for a vamp look).
What’s Not Wearable:
Avoid any detailing that is gathered at the rear, especially if you are particularly blessed in that area. Also, gauchos. Enough said.
September 13th, 2006
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All
Key Takeaways: Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra’s Spring 2007 line reminds us of the classic cuts used in their Fall 2006 collection. Both seasons share the duo’s passion for detail and tailoring, while the new Spring line brings us to another level of delicate elegance with a focus on excellently draped silks and sweetly simple dresses. Fluttering and fit sleeves perfectly matched the fun tie-at-chest level detailing. Beading also adding a sparkly extra for our viewing pleasure. Our favorite moment, however, was when both designers appeared in matching lumberjack-esque outfits. What a sharp contrast to their light and fancy dresses!
Color Palette: There’s something to be said for dusty understated colors of grey, pink, lavender, peach, salmon and orange. Especially when they come together to add to the charm of a classic spring date dress.
Silhouettes: Each of the dresses sported gently fitted tops and bottoms with loose draping. Shoulders are de-emphasized with a conscious lack of shoulder padding/structure. Dresses feature flutter sleeves or bandeau-tie tops with ruching.
Accessories Report: Costello and Tagliapietra are bringing "sexy back" (quick pop reference to Justin Timberlake’s summer hit) by keeping it simple with delicate stilletos that match the feminine flow of the dresses.
What’s Wearable: Most of the collection had a great warm spring evening wearability. With the right accessories, the 3/4 sleeve length with pencil skirt bottom dresses could also be work appropriate.
What’s Not Wearable: Avoid the fluttery high waisted tops without any structure — they”ll give you an odd rectangle body shape if worn incorrectly.
September 13th, 2006
Photo Credit: Coutorture
Key Takeaways: Designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver maintain a fashionable sense of humor with spring apparel that is both uber-baggy and uniquely tailored. All in all, it’s casual clothing for the lazy model.
Color Palette: Soft blues and earthy tones are combined with solid grays and blacks to create a simple, yet eye catching palette.
Silhouettes: We see a clear journey in the silhouettes as the garments progressed – first gangsta baggy, then loose-fit, and then fitted.
Accessories Report: A couple of strategically placed beanies are the only accessories in sight in this collection.
What’s Wearable: Although the sweaters are two sizes too big on all the models, they look very comfortable –same goes with some of the pants. We also appreciated a brown plaid hooded suit, which was both enjoyable and innovative. As for other forms of outerwear, most of the blazers are doable for the fashion savvy man – especially the black and white print ones.
What’s Not Wearable: The holey deconstructed piece seemed more suitable for a stylish hobo in a back alley drinking a 40 oz. out of a paper bag. Also, he ballooning pants looked like scrub bottoms for the big and tall. They would not only make pre-bankrupt M.C. Hammer happy, but they would also fit a family of four comfortably. Very funny, guys!
September 13th, 2006
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Photo Credit: New York Magazine
Key Takeaways: Atil Kutoglu’s exotic Turkish background suggests a collection that hints at opulence, and this season is no exception as he delivers comfortably rich pashima shawls tied around the neck and fitted pieces paired with loose tunic-inspired jackets and outerwear.
Color Palette: Spring’s fancy has arrived in the form of pastels and basics: dusty blue, pale canary yellow, beiges and greys are chased with a fresh breath of shimmery golds, sparkling turquoises and a striking orange-red.
Silhouettes: The three L’s are in order: Long, Lean and Layered. Each combination that walked down the runway featured one of these elements and eschewed traditional rules of a fit bottom and loose top or vice versa for pieces that accentuated the shape of the hips but that did not ignore other parts of the body.
Accessories Report: Can we say tassels? Almost all of the models were featured wearing a small tassel necklace on a delicate chain. So chic! We also spotted the scarves mentioned before and lace-up Roman flats.
What’s Wearable: Hello, Casual Friday. Three cheers for the almost-carelessly rolled up sleeves that remind us of sitting at home relaxing with a delicious novel and a glass of iced tea.
What’s Not Wearable: Avoid the chest-flattening tube-dresses that may induce cleavage overflow in more voluptuous women.
September 12th, 2006
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