Posts filed under 'Runway Reviews'
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All
Key Takeaways:
Gilles Mendel loves fur. As a member of the sixth generation of a long line of elite furriers, Mendel is known for experimenting with fur as fabric instead of simply as an accent piece. Spring is an unexpected time to include such a traditionally heavy material, and Mendel balances out the use of it with lighter fabrics such as silk organza and tulle in complementary floor-sweeping dresses and thin knit tanks and cardigans. We saw a definite emphasis on the use of chevrons and intricate origami designs combined with discs and this season’s favorite, pleats.
Color Palette: Spring bunny-inspired neutrals in stone, alabaster, pearl, straw and chocolate dominated the runway, with slight accents of black and a sprinkle of red.
Silhouettes: Fur generally creates volume even when cut flat and this collection is no exception. Mendel uses this to his advantage by using structure that has largeness on the vests or tops or arm cuffs. He used mink and cashmere to create slender tanks and cotton to elongate disc and origami-decorated skirts and pants. Boatneck necklines showcased delicate necks. Slender patent leather belts further accented natural waists and left us dreaming of warm chic Spring days.
Accessories Report: We were pleasantly suprised when the T-strap pumps (in black and white versions) with contrast fire-engine red bottoms stole the show as the models jauntily paraded down the U-shaped runway. In addition, we noted a re-use of the thin glossy patent leather belts in white and black from Winter 2006.
What’s Wearable: Omiru absolutely adored the texture and interest in the original origami shapes placed in geometric precision on a rose quartz satin faced organza dress and alabaster broadtail cropped bolero.
What’s Not Wearable: Avoid the small puff short sleeves found on the straw silk mikado embroidered kimono jacket if you have proportionatly larger arms to retain your feminine shoulder curves.
September 15th, 2006
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All
Key Takeaways: All of us at Omiru adore a sweetie, and Tia Cibani, the Creative Director for Ports 1961, is no exception. In a pre-show interview, Omiru discovered that Cibani truly embodies the qualities of her line — softly feminine, with an unexpected shot of color and delightful energy. Fashion shows themes are not always clear (even when explicitly stated) but Tia’s romantic 1940s Argentinian theme of delicate fabrics and controlled volume with strong colors and complementary accents makes us want to leap out of our seats and tango in the aisles.
Color Palette: Wonderful warmth pops from this collection in the form of ecru, tan, deep golds, a particularly fetching coral, fuchsia and the requisite black traveler’s outfit.
Silhouettes: The hourglass volume created by a large cinched waist on several of the outfits gave the collection a free-feeling flow. Each piece contained layers and volume in a floaty, unstructured manner so that each model felt dressily undone. We particularly enjoyed the visual balance between a loose cropped boatneck gold knit cardigan that tied in the back over a slightly nipped-at-the-waist fuchsia silk tulle and jersey knee length shift dress that gave the model an appearance of even longer legs. We also took note of the kimono short sleeves, messy ruffles and medium weight knits.
Accessories Report: Three cheers for a large shoe collection! We appreciated that colors of the round-toe flats and sandals matched that of the collection. We also saw textured necklaces created with cloth, wire and linen. Travelling hats were also the order of the day, ranging from a "gaucho" scrunched cloth hat to a pert straw hat with tiny white veil to a large beige hat with contrast piping.
What’s Wearable: After traipsing around the uneven pavement of New York
City, we’re naturally partial to the feet-saving
flats in a variety of colors and soft leathers. We also appreciated a two-toned fuchsia and gold silk tulle blouse paired with an opaque underlay and
fun(ky) canteloupe cotton grosgrain brooch for a elegantly sexy night
out.
What’s Not Wearable: Volume here, volume there, volume everywhere! Beware of this combination (seen on the gold taffeta petal sleeve jacket paired with a fuchsia ruffle dress) unless you would like to look like a rather expensive eggplant.
Curious about Ports 1961? Get an insider view of the collection with Omiru’s backstage interview with Creative Director Tia Cibani.
September 15th, 2006
Photo Credit: New York Magazine
Key Takeaways: Alexandre Plokhov’s dark sense of humor and almost gothic style on the runway has translated once again into an excellently tailored and darkly rock-funk elegant collection. Models strutted down the runway with suiting, shirts with sharply ironed pants, and floppy short boots with buckle detailing. Black appeared in textures from shiny to matte, and plaids appeared on both jackets and long shorts.
Color Palette: Colors for this season are almost exactly the same as his Winter 2006 line, with a heavy emphasis on his love for black, black and more black. Other colors spotted were dark silver, dark blue, cherry red and a beige-white.
Silhouettes: Plokhov featured a very fit and lean sensibility. Straight leg (not tapered) pants graced the models’ legs in a variety of finishes and either tucked into boots or cut a little bit wider to fit over boots. One lone pair of shorts in a plaid print hit just above the knee. Jackets with fit sleeves insisted that no bulky sweaters would be worn underneath, and long sleeve shirts maintained the same cut. A black V-neck vest contrasted heavily with another long sleeve shirt in cherry red.
Accessories Report: The floppy slightly pointed boots in a variety of colors (white, black, grey) hit just above the ankle and sported a delightful side buckle detail. The versatile slouchy boot can be worn with pants tucked in or with wider legged pants covering it, meaning these boots can be still be used after the skinny pant leg trend is over. We also spotted medium sized belts in black and white, perfect for finishing off the stark outfits.
What’s Wearable: While the red may be a bit too bright for the office, we did appreciate the casual chic-ness of the zip-up mandarin collar jackets with slanted dual zippers.
What’s Not Wearable: As always, white has a tendency to be very sheer, so be sure to wear either a full length undershirt or forgo the shirt for one of its button-down brethren in a darker color.
September 15th, 2006
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All
Key Takeaways: Is it Spring yet? Araks’ designer Arak Yeramyan brought a lovely Spring-on-the-Farm sensibility to this season’s set of shows. Soft fabrics, light touches of flowery patterns, and billowy shirts and dresses translated into a collection that looked utterly wearable and formed the perfect accompaniment for the prarie music in the background of the show. Hanging out backstage, Omiru took this picture of one of the models in an adorable lavender-brown cap-sleeved puff dress layered over a sleek cotton tank. C’est mignon!
Color Palette: The colors in this collection remind us of the pale colored mints grandma used to stock in the parlor: white, lavender, mint, brown-lavender and a delicate grey.
Silhouettes:
It gets cold on the Great Plains! We spotted a number of thin crewneck tanks and long sleeved tees layered under sweatshirts and dresses for a definitely youth-centric dressing sensibility. The slim cut tops were combined with blousant dresses and wraps that obscured the models’ figures and showcased their long legs. Poufs were seen in most outfits, and the occasional outfit featured undergarments from Araks’ lingerie line.
Accessories Report: A definite lack of showy jewelry and plain black ballerina flats on all of the models helped keep the focus on the rather romantic line of clothing.
What’s Wearable: We absolutely fell head-over-heels for "Look 20" in the show–a soft white cotton pique shirt jacket with pleats layered over a rainbow oatmeal sweatshirt top, finished off with brown high waisted flat front trousers with just the right amount of flare. We imagine strolling down the street in this outfit with oversized shades and our favorite Hermès bag in the crook of our arm.
What’s Not Wearable: Hipster panties underneath a see-through lavender ‘forget-me-not’ cotton-silk print dress are too be avoided unless you are right about to get some swanky sleep in.
September 15th, 2006
Photo Credit: New York Magazine
Key Takeaways: If Michael Kors has his way, footless tights - some with sequins - are here to stay through Spring. Much like his peer Marc Jacobs, the famed Project Runway judge featured a lot of layering in his Spring 2007 collection. Off-the-shoulder dresses were brought back again, as were skinny scarves and sweaters tied at the hip. Kors did a wonderful job of catering at once to ulta-hip fashionistas and more conservative types with a collection that was all about lifestyle.
Color Palette: Hues were muted: khaki, black, white, light pink, army green, brown, and grey. Sequins also featured prominently.
Silhouettes: For women, key silhouettes included asymmetrical skirts, dresses, and tops; tulip skirts, footless tights, short-sleeve blazers, and off-the-shoulder tops. For men: crisply clean suits and ribbed zip-up hoodies.
Accessories Report: For women: Wide and even wider belts worn at the natural waist (worn over bathing suits, skirts, dresses, and tops), thin scarves, bulky and boxy satchels, and clutches. For men: sweaters tied at the hip, messenger bags.
What’s Wearable: Every single piece in Kors’ collection is meant to be worn, especially the drapey dresses that exuded a relaxed sexiness. Men will love the simplicity Kors expressed in the suits and trousers.
September 15th, 2006
Photo Credit: New York Magazine
Key Takeaways: With Heatherette, you always expect vibrant colors and funky patterns, and their Spring 2007 show was no exception. The most notable trend at Heatherette, besides the mixing of hues, was uneven cuts. Many dresses (like the one Paris Hilton is wearing above) sported jagged bottoms. Although the volume trend made an appearance on the runway, it was by no meant prevalent throughout the show. We applaud Heatherette for taking a stand and straying from the pack.
Color Palette: Lots and lots of color here: black, purple, white, blue, red, yellow, purple, fuchsia, bright pink, and GOLD. Rarely was an garment monochromatic; most of the colors above were used together.
Silhouettes: Heatherette strayed from the volume trend and with cuts that read tighter and sexier. Dresses had uneven bottoms, men’s shorts were tattered, and one dress featured a bubble skirt. We also spotted more casual jersey shorts and polo tops, as well as some layering of strapless dresses over grungy t-shirts.
Accessories Report:
For men: chunky gold necklaces, gold cross necklaces, and straw hats. For women: chunky gold necklaces, straw hats, travel suitcases, cloth messenger bags, and bug-eyed sunglasses.
What’s Wearable: The most "normal" outfits on Heatherette’s eclectic runway were the ones Paris and Nicky Hilton sported midway: cropped jersey shorts with polo tops and crew neck sweaters.
What’s Not Wearable: Made for show, not for the streets, almost everything in the Spring collection is unwearable, especially the bathing suits with fake flowers plastered all over them.
September 15th, 2006
Photo Credit: New York Magazine
Key Takeaways: Betsey Johnson loves to make her models into life-size dolls, and she did just that in her Spring 2007 collection. Models sported fun and flirty dresses, and ruffles were everywhere. Some volume did appear, but this collection was at its core about flirty femininity.
Color Palette: White, nude, grey, blue, pink, lime green, lavender, purple, yellow (mustard and bright), fuchsia. Color-wise, this collection couldn’t put you to sleep.
Silhouettes: Ruffles were present on almost all outfits, whether they were placed at the bodice, on sleeves, or on skirt bottoms. Even bubble skirts were more fitted than others we’ve seen on the runway. Shirtdresses sported short sleeves and gave off a rather airy feel; high-waisted skirts cinched models waists ultra tight, exposing the body’s natural curves. Tiny boy shorts were paired with grandpa-style knitted tops, and a one-piece polka dot bathing suit conjured up images of old Hollywood glamour.
Accessories Report: Accessories were minimal. Most models sported a blue or white headband tied in a bow at the side of the head. Occasionally round sunglasses were spotted.
What’s Wearable: Some of the more simple dresses could be worn at a cocktail party. The most wearable piece for everyday was a short-sleeved, collared pistachio green dress with tiers of fabric at the bodice and in the skirt.
What’s Not Wearable: A fuchsia 80’s-inspired dress with a poufed bottom was too-to0 much. We’d also recommend leaving the Daisy Duke shorts on the shelf.
September 15th, 2006
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All
Key Takeaways: Like a breath of fresh Spring air in the tents, you are pleasantly greeted by a exclusive French picnic party on the lawn. You take a glass of chilled champagne and stroll among life-size versions of magazine ads for the casually wealthy on a day off. We’re so comfortable with this presentation by Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai, we’re almost tempted to take a nap (like the model pictured above). The collection, however, was anything but snooze-ville. Delicious prints (the one seen above was also featured in Spring ‘05), slick lines, and an elegant touch with attention to details and colorblocking made us want to stop and stare for a little while longer.
Color Palette: Reminiescent of their Spring ‘06 line, we see the same nautical colors of creams, blacks and dark blues.
Silhouettes: Streamlined cuts oversaw this party. Avoiding the puffy, structured look of many other designers for this season, the impressively young Mayock and Buhai opted for romantic flutters in sleeves, loosely tied cardigans in thin draping knits, and skinny jeans with a straight fit. Comfort seemed paramount in outfits such as an elbow-length dress with a textured-ink print and loose fit throughout.
Accessories Report: Outside of the rubber frogs, bottles of champagne and real corn that one of the models was shucking, we saw a variety of shoes and jewelry. Shoes ranged form thickly stacked heels to bare feet and jewelry had a heavy chunkiness to complement the floaty comfort of the dresses. We also saw a lone slouchy beige beret adorning one of the "Misfits" in the presentation.
What’s Wearable: We adored the fact that you could see yourself in these outfits (and perhaps on the set of Desperate Housewives) at a lovely garden party or Sunday afternoon date, as most outfits contained enough dressy and comfortable elements to be actually ready-to-wear.
What’s Not Wearable:
The multilayered navy jacket with fringe and lots of layers was the once piece that overpowered the small frame of one of the models.
September 15th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Y & Kei designers Hanii Yoon and Gene Kang (husband and wife) have summoned an angelic look to the Spring runways. As in previous seasons, the color white was widespread, and though most the cuts were simple, we noted hints of intricacy via ruffles, tulip shaped-skirts, and a sophisticated juxtaposition of textures.
Color Palette: White was definitely the most prevalent, but Y & Kei branched out into other neutrals and metallics: black, charcoal grey, light grey, nude, and metallic silver. Purple, a huge color for fall, also made an appearance.
Silhouettes: Tulip skirts were of note, as were narrow-legged capris and trousers. Lines were clean and crisp, especially when it came to the trousers and outerwear. Tuxedo-like coats had tulip-shaped bottoms, and capelets featured ruffles.
Accessories Report: Due to the simplicity of this line, accessories were kept to a bare minimum. The only accessories we saw were a thin black belt, a thin white one, and a black satin scarf.
What’s Wearable: 99% of this line is wearable, especially if you love simplicity and the concept of "Less is More."
What’s Not Wearable: Some of the ruffled pieces are over-the-top for everyday wear.
September 14th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Get ready to go sailing in Trovata’s Spring collection. The underlying theme, for both men and women, was seafaring, and each piece reflected the cool, casual feel of an expedition to sea. Key Spring 2007 trends included shorts, trapeze styles, and cuffed styles.
Color Palette: Crisp white, green, blue, brown, light blue, black, and yellow.
Silhouettes: For men: Crew neck styles, short sleeved sweaters, hooded sweatshirts, cutoff khaki shorts, cuffed cargos, and cardigans. For women: mini shirtdresses, trapeze jackets, cuffed shorts, cropped trenchcoats, and triangle-shaped Bermuda pants.
Accessories Report: Both men and women sported long, layered charm necklaces. For men: floppy caps, fedora hats, frilly scarves, and bucket caps. For women: large canvas bags, charm bracelets, belts at waist, silk scarves on head, and big floppy hats.
What’s Wearable: If you like the seaside look, everything is wearable. We’re digging the navy blue strapless dress with nautical button detailing (pictured).
What’s Not Wearable: We’re a bit skeptical about charm necklaces for men. The look is too much for traditionally primped metrosexual men, and other men don’t usually like to sport jewels.
September 14th, 2006
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