Posts filed under 'Runway Reviews'
Key Takeaways: Layering, narrow silhouettes, and fabrics with sheen were the three hallmarks of the Calvin Klein Men Spring 2007 collection.
Color Palette: Greys and tan were jolted with shades of blue and orange.
Silhouettes: Models strutted down the runway in layered tops–v-neck sweaters over crewnecks over button-down shirts, two-button fitted suits, 3/4 length coats, double breasted styles, blousy tops, shorts, and leggings.
Accessories Report: Models carried tote bags down the runway.
What’s Wearable: Love the uber-thin lapels, the fitted two-button suits with a low stance, and the skinny trousers.
What’s Not Wearable: Leggings–especially in electric blue.
September 21st, 2006
Key Takeaways: Narciso Rodriguez’s tricky architectural constructions appear somewhat forced–definitely not as natural and fluid as they have appeared in previous years. The collection feels studied, and even a bit stiff as Rodriguez alternates between fitted and slightly looser shapes. Surface details–pattern and metallic sheen–are key for visual interest.
Color Palette: White, black, and grey are joined by rose, blue, purple and orange.
Silhouettes: Key silhouettes for women included high waistlines, empire styles, capelets, babydoll dresses, miniskirts, and trenches. Detailing included flutter sleeves, cutouts, and thick straps. For men, we noted loosely fitted single-button blazers, skinny pants, sleeveless jackets, and shorts.
Accessories Report: Belts played a central role in the collection, with Rodriguez showing what appears to be a corset of belts. We also took note of a thick belt with thin ties at the front.
What’s Wearable: The collection is generally wearable, given the right occasion. The styles feel intellectual–perfect for gallery openings and evenings at the symphony. For women, we’re crushing on a draped dark turquoise dress with think chain strap and white contrast cutout at front. For men, we’re fans of the loosely fitted single-button blazers.
What’s Not Wearable: Some outfits have too much going on with the combination of fabric/color blocking, pattern, and shape. However, we could see many of his individual pieces as perfectly wearable. Rodriguez’s expertise is creating clean lines and unfussy shapes–this collection didn’t play to his strengths.
September 21st, 2006
Key Takeaways: Bold graphics alternate with solids on classic DVF silhouettes. Diane von Furstenberg’s breezy use of controlled volume created many wearable pieces, which ranged from cocoon shaped dresses and bubble shapes to fitted bandeau tops and narrow skirts.
Color Palette: Black, white, and navy were joined by brights: coral, orange, yellow, spring green, and gold.
Silhouettes: Diane’s signature wrap dresses and shirtdresses were accompanied by trapeze shapes, shorts, bubble skirts, swing coats, bandeau tops, tops with wide straps, and cocoon silhouettes.
Accessories Report: Long earrings that reach below the shoulders and long necklaces that reach to the waist.
What’s Wearable: With Diane’s classic wrapdresses and shirtdresses, you can’t go wrong.
What’s Not Wearable: Exaggerated bubble skirts aren’t for the petite.
September 20th, 2006
Key Takeaways: 80s inspired looks–power chic with a tough edge. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez alternate between light and dark looks, repeating silhouettes between the two.
Color Palette: Black, dark turquoise and green express Proenza Schouler’s dark side, while beige, yellow, pink, and orange round out their light side.
Silhouettes: Silhouettes were either large over small or small over large and included: fitted shirts that hit at mid-thigh, kimono sleeved tops, tops with wide straps, tight bustiers, shorts, and 7/8 sleeved blazers.
Accessories Report: White rimmed sunglasses, belts worn at the natural waist, and heavily laced up sandals adorned the models on the runway.
What’s Wearable: Proenza Schouler’s outerwear–cropped jackets, blazers, and swing coats–was especially fetching.
What’s Not Wearable: Runway models, dressed by a stylist, can pull off pairs of loud prints. However, these combinations are often best left on the runway. More specifically, we found some of the bustiers severe, and the jumper with Daisy Duke bottoms won’t do short legs any favors.
September 20th, 2006
Key Takeaways: Effortlessly chic collection of easy-to-wear dresses and separates in
lightweight fluid fabrics. With clean lines and soft shapes, Cynthia Steffe’s collection
travels effortlessly from day to Parisian night. Key silhouettes included fitted and floaty
dresses, chiffon tops, tunics, mariner shorts, and loosely fitted jackets. Detailing
included laser cutouts, eyelet, crochet, and embroidery.
Color Palette: Neutrals–white, grey, and black–are accompanied by a playful medley of lime green, yellow, orangey pink, and a spectrum of blues.
Silhouettes: Silhouettes were generally large over small. Sporty, flirty separates included trapeze coats, tunics, chiffon tops, and skinny bottoms: stovepipe pants and mariner shorts. An assortment of rompers, babydoll dresses, and flowy evening gowns rounded out the collection.
Accessories Report: We love the thin double belts that Cynthia Steffe custom designed for this collection.
What’s Wearable: Designed expressly to be wearable, Cynthia Steffe’s spring collection featured pieces that we’re already picturing in our overstuffed closets: a slate grey jumper dress, a filgree print chiffon top, and a pintucked shadow stripe top.
What’s Not Wearable: Stovepipe pants can be tricky to wear if you don’t have the legs of a model.
Want to know more about Cynthia Steffe? Don’t miss Omiru’s backstage interview with designer Cynthia Steffe.
September 19th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: For Ralph Lauren, it does matter if it’s black or white. The entire collection, with the exception of some metallic silver pieces, was characterized by the two classic hues. Menswear-as-womenswear also dominated the runway, though we did spot some ultra-feminine frocks. Straying from the volume trend, Ralph did his own thing and stuck with his signature sleek tailoring.
Color Palette: Black, white, and some metallic silver.
Silhouettes: Polo shirts, fitted A-line skirts, menswear-inspired vests, button-down shirts with tuxedo accents, bermuda shorts, camisole jersey dresses, and flapper-like dresses.
Accessories Report: Most of the models wore fedoras, some petite, some large. They also carried enormous black satchels and sported neckties. Black belts featured large square buckles.
What’s Wearable: All the pieces in this collection are wearable, but it depends on your personal style. If you don’t fancy menswear-as-womenswear, you can take your favorite pieces and pair them with more feminine articles.
What’s Not Wearable: One model wore a turban-like cap that we wouldn’t recommend sporting.
September 19th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: The fashionable young man, Zac Posen, focused on several trends for the Spring season: short dresses, metallic colors, cuffed shorts, and ruffles. Now, these concepts are nothing new, but Posen managed to be original by not ODing on the volume trend.
Color Palette: The main crop of colors shown were off-white, gold, and grey; lime green, hot yellow, teal, army green, and light pink were introduced minimally.
Silhouettes: Pant suits with baggy trousers, silk blouses with bows tied in front, blouses with exaggerated ruffle sleeves, skirt suits with deep side slits, trapeze jackets, cuffed shorts, and cowl neck dresses.
Accessories Report: Models wore wristlets and large leather satchels.
What’s Wearable: With the exception of the dramatic and voluminous evening gowns, everything is pretty wearable. Especially suited for the streets are the cuffed shorts and suits.
What’s Not Wearable: The finale dress, a lot like Melania Trump’s wedding dress, is much too dramatic (and hard to walk in). A red satin dress with uneven edges and a gigantic bow at the neck will make you look like a wrapped holiday gift.
September 18th, 2006
Key Takeaways: Omiru would like to respectfully sympathize with Vera Wang on the passing away of her father, C. C. Wang, on the morning of her show. Whether intentional or not, the line had a somber and darkly delicate feel with colors and controlled shapes that mirrored the solemn occasion.
Color Palette: Darkly rich and strong like our favorite espresso. We took note of steel greys, blacks, matte mustard gold, and Spring’s cream for our coffee, white.
Silhouettes: Victorian layers with accentuated volume permeated Vera Wang’s line. Satins were shaped into tight capris and full length pants, while flower prints spruced up babydoll and flared A-line dresses. We did a double take upon seeing a cocktail party appropriate black voluminous cinch waisted dress with enough layers for fullness (but not enough to overpower the wearer). Color-intense draped wraps and small ruffles on the shoulders focused eyes on the bodice.
Accessories Report: We took note of complementary flats in neutrals with cozy straps across the tops of the feet.
What’s Wearable: Knee-length printed dresses with large belts and soft kidskin leather flats are oh-so-adorable!
What’s Not Wearable: Avoid the frilled neck panel on the sleeveless black shirt to avoid overwhelming your face.
September 18th, 2006
Key Takeaways: Doori Chung is known for elegant draping, fabric gathers, and the small details that turn the ordinary into the extraordinary. Omiru is pleased to report that Spring 2007 does not disappoint. While her Fall 2006 collection featured wonderfully excessive draping and folds in jerseys with a palette of mostly blacks and some neutrals, her Spring 2007 line turns those styles and colors on their heads with delicate draping and neutral-intense colors. Lovely wide belts in matte metallics adorned waists below which ruffles gently fell and sheer greys and whites are layered over delicate dresses.
Color Palette: Pale creamy neutrals in white, silver, champagne, chocolate brown, and basic black.
Silhouettes: Smooth, sweet and classic means shapes such as feminine babydolls and long and lean silhouettes. We saw the return of skinny pants in black and white (see the "Hello Audrey" GAP ads this season) and slim draping along the lower torso (pictured above). A smooth-fitting trench with floppy lapels in a richly light chocolate brown appeared on the runway for those April showers, and a delicate white ruffled dress with a black tribal-esque design is perfect for those warm May days. We also took note of an oversized bow around the neck of a puff-sleeved and uncharacteristically structured shirt, as well as the appearance of both natural and drop waists.
Accessories Report: Models pranced down the runway in everything from T-strap flats to wrapped heels in neutral complementary colors. The large belts previously mentioned also appeared along with a classic black watch.
What’s Wearable: While black may be a bit too sober for spring, we did appreciate a classic, form-fitting, cinched-waist black zip-up jacket paired with a lovely tight pencil skirt. A good number of the dresses in matte colors were also very spring appropriate for a lovely sit-down at a café and people-watching on an Italian piazza.
What’s Not Wearable: Avoid dresses that contain too much shimmer and sequins for day-time (even if layered with a sweater).
September 18th, 2006
Photo Credit: Coutorture
Key Takeaways: Tunes like "California Love" and "Bad to the Bone," shook the tent, while male and female models rocked the catwalk with lots of sequins, glitter, leather, rose-embossed shirts (a Manuel signature), ruffles, linen, and crisp suits. This was one of the most fun-filled productions of Fashion Week, and the father-son duo behind Manuel even got a standing ovation at the finale.
Color Palette: Black, white, brown, beige were shown alongside glittery sequins and denim fabrics.
Silhouettes: For women: Sleeveless leather jackets, cargo pants, cuffed denim skirts, matador-style jackets, and v-neck long ruffle dresses. For men: Matador jackets, tattered jeans, and button-down shirts with Swarovski crystals.
Accessories Report: For women: Pointy snakeskin boots had chains; some models had Swarovski crystal-encrusted broches in their hair.
What’s Wearable: Since most of the pieces were crystal-encrusted, it would be hard to wear them during the day. Many of the women’s evening dresses, however, are definitely wearable for fancy occasions. Men would appreciate the rugged denim and leather blazers.
What’s Not Wearable: At the very beginning of the show, two models - one male, one female - walked out wearing what looked like a bling-ed out bullet-holder. It was appealing for the Manuel runway, but it can’t really be translated onto the streets. The men’s shirts with crystals are also very Elvis-esque, so unless you’re trying to channel the King of Rock, we wouldn’t recommend.
September 18th, 2006
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