Posts filed under 'Runway Reviews'
Key Takeaways: Derek Lam jumped on the 1980s bandwagon with skinny riding pants, off-the-shoulder tops, broad shoulders, oversized coats, and asymmetric draping.
Color Palette: Black, white, grey, and shades of brown were accented with blue and gold. Plaid patterns featured prominently.
Silhouettes: Big on top, small on bottom. Broad shoulders, oversized outerwear, kimono sleeves, and off-the-shoulder tops were paired with legging-style pants and short, swingy skirts. Cocktail dresses featured asymmetric draping, 80s style. Detailing to note: zipper details, oversized collars, metallic shine, plaid, and decorative pockets.
Accessories Report: Boots and belts accessorized the 80s style outfits coming down the runway.
What’s Wearable: Kimono sleeves work well to camouflage thick upper arms, and broad shoulders help balance wide hips.
What’s Not Wearable: Horizontal stripes only visually widen your body, and the severe, skinny riding pants will only work on stick-thin women.
February 8th, 2007
Key Takeaways: Narciso Rodriguez has been experimenting with the same sleek, structured forms for the last few years, but his work appears fresh and innovative against a backdrop of designers moving from layering and volume to a long and lean silhouette. Key trends for both men and women included: slim silhouettes, geometric patterns, and colorblocking. Key women’s trends included sleeved and asymmetrical dresses and long gloves.
Color Palette: Black, grey,beige, and white were spruced up by teal and a dusky emerald green. Colorblocking added a graphic feel to the collection.
Silhouettes: With touches of 60s elegance, Narciso showed slightly big over small, or small over slightly big silhouettes. Overall, the looks were long and lean, with precise tailoring for a snug fit. Structured coats skimmed over skinny pants and dresses. As a nod to seasons past, Narciso showed a few body-hugging, empire waist sleeveless dresses. Other dress trends to note included sleeved dresses and asymmetrical frocks. For men, the look was either slim all over or slightly big over small. Of note was a "paint splattered" graphic print tee–a departure from Narciso’s past menswear.
Accessories Report: For women, the big accessory was long gloves; for men, it was the skinny tie.
What’s Wearable: For women (with a slightly curvy figure), we love Narciso’s signature body-hugging empire-waist dresses. Silhouette-wise, it’s tough to go wrong with the slightly big over small and the small over slightly big silhouettes. For men, the slim cut suits with skinny ties are great for adding visual height.
What’s Not Wearable: For women, avoid dresses and skirts that hit you at mid-calf, as the awkward length visually shortens you. For men, steer clear of pants with tiny patterns–they look more like pajamas than street pants.
February 8th, 2007
Key Takeaways: As expected for Oscar de la Renta, the show exuded unadulterated luxury–for both young and old. Key trends included: fur, controlled volume, embroidery, shine (sequins and metallic fabrics), ruffles, and geometric patterns.
Color Palette: Earthy with blacks, chocolate browns, and greys, accented by jewel tones of deep purple and ruby. Metallic sheen made an appearance, as did shiny sequins.
Silhouettes: Controlled volume at the waistline, hemline, and sleeves. Outfits were gently cinched at the waist with seamlines and belts. Voluminous coats felt wearable, with the shape not overly exaggerated. Oscar fell in line with the sleeved dress trend, but upped the drama factor with asymmetric styles.
Accessories Report: Belts drew attention to the waistline. Bug eyed sunglasses shaded the models’ eyes, while fabric-covered bulbous necklaces adorned their necks. We noted the occasional fur hat, along with handbags with chain straps. Tights were layered under Oscar’s dresses and separates, as appropriate for cooler temperatures.
What’s Wearable: Small geometric patterns work well to disguise problem areas. We loved the oversized collars, which draw attention to and frame the face. Sweaterjackets provide an unstructured alternative to traditional winter outerwear. Bottoms, which sat at the natural waistline, will flatter those with long torsos and short legs.
What’s Not Wearable: Fur made too many appearances on the runway for our taste. Besides, didn’t we all decide that Fur is Out?
February 8th, 2007
Key Takeaways: Has Betsey Johnson grown up? If the
answer lies in her Fall 2007 collection, then the answer is a resounding yes! Betsey is known for
her flirty, flamboyant and oh-so-girly dresses, but this time around, she toned it
down—way down—and went the menswear-as-womenswear route. Key pieces seen on her
brooding runway included high-waisted shorts, men’s socks worn with loafers and
voluminous coats.
Color Palette: So unlike Betsey, but the majority of the
colors in this collection were dark: navy blue, black, grey, brown, green, and dark purple. White, gold, and light pink did their part to lighten the palette.
Silhouette: Betsey usually either does hideously voluminous
or suffocatingly tight. But this time around, her silhouettes were airy but in a wearable way. We spotted puff sleeves, high-waisted shorts, Betty Page-esque high cut
shorts, button-down silk shirts, knit skirts, ruffles, babydoll dresses,
tie-front blouses, and high-waisted trousers.
Accessories Report: Short white gloves, men’s socks,
loafers, white and black opaque tights, white square mod sunglasses, thin
belts, cloche hats.
What’s Wearable: Besides the French maid outfits at the
beginning, most pieces in Betsey’s collection were surprisingly wearable. Especially
translatable to the streets was the brown crew neck long-sleeve knit dress and the tie-front
blouses.
What’s Not Wearable: Unless it’s your Halloween costume,
stay away from the French maid costume. Don’t try the multi-colored
striped boatneck dress, lest you aspire to be a walking piñata. And the
Betty Page short shorts are better suited for professional Burlesque dancers.
February 7th, 2007
Key Takeaways: A real departure from Carolina Herrera’s typical sweetly light collections. Dresses and separates maintained the designer’s signature elegance, but overlaid a sense of darkness and mystery. Key trends included: high-waisted silhouettes, geometric patterns, bows, open knit fabric, plaid fabric, ruffles, and fur.
Color Palette: Heavy on dark colors–blacks and greys. Brooding browns and regal lilacs were lightened with shades of white, splashes of red, and metallic silver. Both fur and geometric patterns–most notably plaid and dots–featured prominently.
Silhouettes: Generally high-waisted, with an emphasis on the natural waistline. Garment volume felt measured and made to flatter the body. Sleek dresses were complemented by swingy frocks, paired with patterned leggings. High-waisted skirts and trousers were paired with open knit tops, sweaterjackets, and semi-voluminous jackets.
Accessories Report: Black elbow-length gloves and patterned tights emphasized the dark, yet ladylike feel of the collection. Wide belts drew emphasis to the waistline. Bug-eyed sunglasses completed the chicly mysterious looks.
What’s Wearable: Carolina Herrera knows how to flatter a woman’s body–try the sleek dresses, the subtly voluminous skirts, the swingy oversized jackets, and the high-waisted trousers. The sleeved dresses are perfect for women with thick upper arms.
What’s Not Wearable: Fur played a large part in the collection–both as jackets and as cuffs, but we prefer to leave fur on our animal friends. Horizontal "striping" through fabric detailing visually widens the body–beware.
February 6th, 2007
Key Takeaways: As the first designer from Mainland China to present at New York Fashion Week, Mr. Cabbeen shows us just how funky, modern and colorful Chinese fashion has become. Wearable everyday bombers in twill and nylon were paired with carefree trousers and jeans and laid-back black trainers with painted or embroidered embellishment. Fabric choices ranged from plaid to chevron to pinstripe.
Color Palette: A rainbow of colors ranging from the requisite grey, navy and black to pale yellow, maroon and army green. Colorblocking and plaid fabrics featured prominently in the collection.
Silhouette: Relaxed on top with long and lean hoodies and tanks paired under comfy jackets and casually fitted pants and jeans.
Accessories Report: Scarves and striped ties adorned the necks of most models. Most also sported black trainers or roll-top ankle boots in neutral colors.
What’s Wearable: For the guy with a bit of fashion-funk, we recommend the robin’s egg blue jacket with cherry blossom embroidery to catch the eye of any lucky lady (or lad).
What’s Not Wearable: If it’s over 20 degrees where you live and the sun is shining, steer clear of the oil-slick inspired puffer jackets so as not to blind innocent bystanders.
February 6th, 2007
Key Takeaways: Creative director John Crocco showed a group of clean looks featuring horizontal stripes and cozy wool, thermal and leather pieces that have us dreaming of hot cocoa by the ski lodge fire. Thick knits featured chevrons and other geometric patterns. Rugged models where snuggled under warm winter beanies and sported a "just-in-from-the-cold" makeup scheme of blushed faces and rosy red lips. Key trends included: neutral colors, patterned knit fabric (e.g. cable knit), horizontal stripes, plaid, the sweaterjacket, pocket detailing (on pants and jackets), and high waisted pants.
Color Palette: Classic shades: creamy winter whites, simple blacks and greys were complemented by several tones of steel blue-grey.
Silhouettes: Thick cream cable knits were paired with slim (but not tapered) high-waisted dress pants in strong shades of blue. Suits were cut slim, but not tight, and included vests in contrast fabric. Detailing included leather strips, fur cuffs, and on pants–extra pockets. Bare-chested muscular men in long white underwear reminded us that thermals can be both playful and practical.
Accessories Report: Scarves! This friendly little neck warmer comes in many shapes and sizes, as Crocco cleared showed with several long and short loops of cashmere/wool warmth in oatmeal-type colors. Several large totes in various wool and brown leather were carried down the runway–perfect for the man who has everything–-and needs to carry it on the go. Feet were kept cozy in glossy styles and snug pale blue suede shoes. Hands were covered in sleek black or dark brown leather gloves.
What’s Wearable: V-neck cardigans and tailored dress pants are stylishly safe for the elegant contemporary man. We love the stylish 3/4 length coats–and the sweaterjackets–to keep you warm for Fall. The pocket-as-embellishment detailing on pants and jackets is a quiet, but effective way to stand out in a crowd.
What’s Not Wearable: We’re not a fan of the plaid pants–they’re more pajamas than real pants.
February 5th, 2007
Key Takeaways: An extremely wearable collection of dresses and playfully elegant looks in simple shapes. Key trends included: colorblocking, high-waisted looks, sweaterjackets, ruffles, bows (on blouses and dresses), and dots.
Color Palette: Black and red dominated the collection, along with grey and turquoise.
Silhouettes: Dresses, dresses, dresses. Diane von Furstenberg’s wrap dresses were accompanied by sweaterdresses, tent dresses, kimono sleeved dresses, and bubble dresses. Both big over small and small over big silhouettes were seen on the runway. Loose, breezy jackets accompanied more form fitting dresses.
Accessories Report: Pure elegance–heels with a high vamp, wrist-length gloves, long chain necklaces with jewels, and the oversized bag.
What’s Wearable: Sleeved dresses help camoflauge heavy upper arms, and Diane von Furstenberg’s signature wrap dresses perfectly complement curvy women. We like the emphasis on print–both the dots and the black and white lacelike prints. Though they might not be warm enough for Fall, we like the sweaterjacket and dress combination for Spring.
What’s Not Wearable: The coat with horizonal ruffles, though shown in black, still manages to visually widen the torso. Big over big silhouettes work on the runway–but not on real people.
February 5th, 2007
Key Takeaways: Steven Cox and Daniel Silver of Duckie Brown cheekily juxtaposed streetwear with suits for Fall 2007. Key trends included: colorblocking, skinny pants, wide pants, plaid patterns, colored gloves, and the pointed beanie.
Color Palette: Dark; blacks and browns were accented by touches of bright orange, green, turquoise and yellow. Plaid patterned tops were featured with dark colored trousers.
Silhouette: Blazers were cut exclusively with two buttons. Loose fitting coats and jackets were paired with skinny pants for a big-over-small look. Two other garment classifications of note: the vest and the shrunken blazer.
Accessories Report: Colorful gloves and bright (pointed) beanie hats.
What’s Wearable: We’re all over Duckie Brown’s brightly colored accessories, which make wearing bright colors more accessible to men. For more adventurous types, we recommend Duckie Brown’s green overcoat, paired with grey and muted denim. Style tip from Duckie Brown? Push up the sleeves on a long sleeve shirt–but keep the cuffs showing.
What’s Not Wearable: As we noted at Buckler, underwear as outerwear is just not a good idea. A turtleneck and beanie combo needs a pair of pants to make it complete.
February 5th, 2007
Key Takeaways: Futuristic with a science fiction edge, Andrew Buckler’s Fall 2007 presentation featured crisp, refined lines and a nod to the 80s rock scene. Buckler showed body conscious cardigans, dress shirts, and jackets along with corsets, wifebeaters, and colorful boxer briefs.
Color Palette: Key colors included jet black, graphite ebony, darker reds, boyish blues, and bruised purple.
Silhouette: Jackets and dress shirts were lean, with refined lines and a tailored feel. Pants were cut skinny and exuded a punkish 80s vibe.
Accessories Report: Caps in the style of a British police officer. Elbow-length gloves, Knee socks, and colorful thin scarves. Simple silver jewelry with a Rock n’ Roll edge.
What’s Wearable: We’re digging the beautifully tailored jackets, cardigans, and dress shirts.
What’s Not Wearable: Underwear as outerwear–corsets and tight underwear don’t belong on the streets. Uber-skinny pants also pose a fashion challenge for most men.
February 4th, 2007
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