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Key Takeaways: A ladylike collection of eveningwear and cocktail-appropriate dresses. Lhuillier’s collection had an old-world type of charm–very pretty, but not overly embellished. While she clearly follows in the footsteps of Vera Wang, some of her cocktail numbers channeled Oscar de la Renta.
Color Palette: Neutrals (white, black, and shades of beige) were accompanied by yellow, lilac, sky blue, moss, and fuschia.
Silhouettes: Cocktail wear featured fitted bodices and mostly A-line skirts. Lhuillier showed bodices in three classic shapes: high-necked, strapless, and bra-top styles. Evening gowns ranged from drapey bias-cut styles to poufy voluminous looks.
What’s Wearable: Just about everything. We’ll no doubt be seeing some of these looks on the red carpet.
More specifically, we’re a big fan of the A-line skirt’s almost universal figure flattery. Also, Lhuillier’s monochromatic high-necked styles will be flattering to petite women for their elongated vertical line.
What’s Not Wearable: Watch your step in Lhuillier’s poufy evening gowns. For tall girls only.
September 19th, 2005
Key Takeaways: Karan’s collection was inspired by art, such as Pollack abstract expressionism and Mondrian colors. She also experimented with combining volume and strong, geometric shapes.
Color Palette: Black, red, yellow, beige, brown, navy.
Silhouettes: Pleated, full skirts; dresses with tulip skirts; cropped jackets; jackets tied with bows, empire waists.
Accessories Report: Dramatic cat-eye makeup, hairbows, and oversized necklaces of linking geometric shapes:
What’s Wearable: Deconstructed jackets and cocktail dresses.
What’s Not Wearable: The oversized, overly geometric necklaces.
September 17th, 2005
Key Takeaways: Lots of Nautica + Military + Bohemian = Pirates?
Color Palette: Navy and white, grey, gold, maroon.
Silhouettes: Military jackets with nautical-striped tanks; mermaid skirts, both long and short; skirt suits; ruffles.
Accessories Report: The collection was not complete without the necessary accessories: aviators, solid gold and netted bags, skullcaps, beaded necklaces and long, dangly earrings.
What’s Wearable: Every individual piece in this collection. However, we spotted a perfect skirt suit for work.
What’s Not Wearable: Skinny pinstripes with wide pinstripes, unless you want to look like a candy striper.
September 17th, 2005
Key Takeaways: Zac Posen’s apparel was more intricate than that of his fashion peers. Some highlights included jackets and dresses with cutout designs and slouchy, cuffed hot pants.
Color Palette: The rainbow. A plethora of pastels, plus royal blue, wine red and Madras plaid.
Silhouettes: Form-fitting outfits with flared skirts, muumuus taken down a notch, and short or cropped trenches.
Accessories Report: Oversized floppy hats, python-print bags and fringed suede bags were in abundance.
What’s Wearable: A beige leather cutout bolero.
What’s Not Wearable: Giant pitch tents the width of an entire runway.
September 15th, 2005
Key Takeaways: Gathered taffeta; asymmetrical skirts and dresses.
Color Palette: Typical black tie event colors, plus taffeta in paprika, lavender and iridescent chartreuse.
Silhouettes: Poufy sleeves, bubble skirting, ruffled hems, and gathered or shirred fabrics.
Accessories Report: Obi sashes around the waist.
What’s Wearable: Rose and forest green, an unusual but fresh color combo.
What’s Not Wearable: Overly fussy and asymmetrical taffeta ensembles.
September 15th, 2005
Key Takeaways: Overall, not the most wearable menswear collection. Bright hues paired with v-necked silkscreen tees; fitted, button-down shirts with slouchy pleated pants; leather blazers and zip-up jackets.
Color Palette: Sky blue, curry yellow, dark chocolate brown, and orange, in addition to traditional menswear colors.
Silhouettes: Buttoned-up button-down shirts, zippered jackets, fitted leather blazers.
Accessories Report: Cowboy boots and coked-out gazes at the audience.
What’s Wearable: An egregiously-cut, classy-looking pewter silk blend suit with a beige leather belt.
What’s Not Wearable: A zippered jacket in an oddly feminine print.
September 15th, 2005
Key Takeaways: In typical Kors fashion, this collection was urban, effortless chic. Kors filled the runway with lighter fabrics in neutral colors such as army green, beige and cream. Practically every female model wore a hip-slung or waist-cinching leather belt.
Color Palette: Black, white, neutrals and batik and camouflage prints.
Silhouettes: Silk scarves for both men and women, batik prints, eyelet, long, ruffle-tiered column skirts and dresses, formal wear for men dressed down with sandals.
Accessories Report: Kors offered messenger bags for men and women, as well as cammo backpacks for men and woven leather bags for women.
What’s Wearable: Virtually everything.
What’s Not Wearable: Unless we’re at the beach, bikini tops with flowy skirts.
September 15th, 2005
Key Takeaways: Nautica.
Color Palette: The colors of the beach: White, beige, grey, gold and various shades of blue; paisley metallic prints; fringe.
Silhouettes: Dresses fit for royalty with drop waists and fantail hems; puffed sleeves; boatneck tops.
What’s Wearable: Som’s rendition of the sailor pant, which draped on his models so beautifully.
What’s Not Wearable: The transparent blouses worn without undergarments. We’re not sure of Som’s intention here.
September 15th, 2005
Key Takeaways: Rodriguez echoed the silhouettes of past collections, though the idea of controlled volume still appeared somewhat fresh in the larger context of fashion week. Shapes were architectural, with arcs and cutouts, as in past seasons. We saw seamed suits, less strict than ones from the past. However, Rodriguez is clearly straying from his forte—the sexy, architectural, and precisely tailored garments that propelled him to fame.
Rodriguez’s menswear collection launched this season. Filled with minimalist, classic pieces in mainly black and white, it largely echoed the sensibilities of his current womenswear collection.
Color Palette: Minimal and neutral. Black, white, silver, violet, and brown.
Silhouettes: Skirts with a length a little below the knee. High (and empire) waistlines. Controlled volume: tight bodices, fuller skirts. Architectural shapes, arcs, and cutouts.
Accessories Report: Low wedge sandals.
What’s Wearable: Still love the architectural feel of Rodriguez’s designs. What we love about Narciso Rodriguez is the inherent wearability of his minimalist designs. As usual, the collection was all wearable, and we’ll no doubt be seeing these designs on celebrities come spring.
What’s Not Wearable: Nothing.
September 14th, 2005
Key Takeaways: Sarafpour’s collection was a study in contrasts: black with white, structured with deconstructed, dressy with casual.
Color Palette: Almost exclusively black-and-white, as well as some neutrals and animal prints.
Silhouettes: Tons of ruffles, tiered column dresses, pleated, wide-leg culottes, oversized pockets, shift dresses, oversized bows (also seen at Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta).
Accessories Report: Sarafpour’s handbag collection made its debut this season. While few were on display, we caught glimpses of a grey wool clutch and a black-and-white satchel with oversized bow ornaments.
What’s Wearable: Wrap trench coats in sateen and elegant, floaty dresses with tiered ruffles.
What’s Not Wearable: Fussy pairings such as an ivory lace collar worn with a cotton tank and a long, tiered, ruffled skirt. Clean lines work much better.
September 14th, 2005
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