Posts filed under 'Men'

Omiru’s Fashion Week Trend Roundup, Part IV

Capes and Capelets: One of the huge trends this season.  Maybe this is The Poncho, Part II.
Derek Lam, Oscar de la Renta, Monique Lhuillier, Narciso Rodriguez, Tuleh, Rachel Comey, Twinkle, Proenza Schouler

Small and Square Sunglasses: It’s like the fashion world woke up and decided it didn’t want to be bug eyed anymore.
Carolina Herrera, BCBG, Luella Bartley, Proenza Schouler

Nerd Glasses for Men: Can we say Geek Chic?  Disclaimer: Sporting these glasses as an awkward teenager probably won’t win you any more dates.
Trovata, Lacoste

Short Gloves: You go guys, for bucking the trend against the long, elbow-length glove.
Derek Lam, Proenza Schouler

3/4 Sleeve Styles: Trisha bought one of these 3/4 sleeve coats, but on her it was more like 7/8. Alas.
Proenza Schouler, Carolina Herrera

Missed a previous edition of Omiru’s Fashion Week Trend
Roundup? Fear Not!  Here’s Omiru’s Mid Fashion Week Trend Roundup, Part
II
, and Part III.

February 10th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Marc by Marc Jacobs

 Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  The look was very Bobo (think Mary-Kate and Stavros in the Village).

Color Palette:  As if straight out of a Rothko painting, the color scheme was limited to blue, grey and black.

Silhouettes: Models strutted down the runway in layer upon layer of oversized clothing.

Accessories Report: Ultralong scarves (and necklaces for women), newsboy hats, logo duffels, knit ski hats for men, pins on lapels, suspenders, fanny packs.

What’s Wearable: For women, a capelet with oversized buttons; an oversized wool grey coat; slouchy leather bags. For men, fitted blazers with pin adornments on the lapel.

What’s Not Wearable: Colorless colonial-style dresses for women; for men, sleeves hooked to the thumbs.

February 10th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Trovata

Trovata Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Inventive Swiss-inspired collection with looks ranging from a sporty equestrian to extras in the  Sound of Music to a 1920s-meets-preppy-schoolgirl outfit.  Key trends included: (1) Toggle coats for men and women, (2) short sleeved looks, (3) double breasted coats, (4) stripes and solids for men, (5) raised waistlines, (6) vests, (7) giant cuff bracelets, and (8) fair isle sweaters.  What did we appreciate the most about Trovata?  Even in the simplest of outfits (a v-neck sweater over a button down shirt and slacks), we saw clear attention to detail: the shirt sleeves peeked out from under the sweater a perfect amount–about 3/4 inch–just as they should when a man is wearing a suit blazer.

Color Palette: Neutrals with shots of mustard yellow, olive, burnt orange, purple, sky blue, and bright royal blue.

Silhouettes: Silhouettes were generally slim, but some looks paired a fitted top over a more generously proportioned bottom.  For women, we saw short sleeved dresses, fresh looking sailor looks–including a great pair of sailor pants with purposefully mismatched buttons, fair isle sweaters, short sleeved looks, boatneck styles, asymmetry, loose flowy skirts on dresses, cropped pants, striped tights, and sweatervests.  For men, we saw striped looks under jackets, plenty of plaid, suspenders, fair isle sweaters, peacoats, and of course, toggle coats.

Accessories Report: For women, giant charms on necklaces, giant cuff bracelets, scarves wrapped around the head Grace Kelly style, hoodie-like hats, knit caps with bills, furry hats, and tights (but of course).  For men, we saw untied bow ties, suspenders, and beanies.

What’s Wearable: Most of the collection was wearable, but we especially loved the toggle coats and sweaters for both men and women.  We also appreciated Trovata’s take on the nautical theme: a cropped blazer + a button down striped shirt with yoke + sailor pants with multicolored buttons.  

What’s Not Wearable: I would skip on the Sound of Music ensembles, but they were just for show anyways.

1 comment February 10th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Michael Kors

Michael Kors

Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: It seems Michael Kors is also smitten with the color black so we suppose it’s staying put for a while. But thankfully Mr. Kors hasn’t overlooked important details like fur, thick belts, knit scarves, bows,and more. Both the men’s and women’s lines have an overall serious tone, but some Abercrombie & Fitch-like preppy stripes lighten the mood.

Color Palette: Black is back, but grey, white, beige, yellow, blue, maroon, and olive green make it in to the mix.

Silhouettes: Tight trousers, blazers, vests, cardigans, trench coats, nad turtlenecks for the men. For the women, airy dresses, slim turtlenecks, large coats, skinny cropped trousers, A-line skirts, knit dresses, and fur shrugs.

Accessories Report: The men sported yellow-tinted shades, skinny one-color ties, scarves, and black leather belts with a silver circular hardware. The ladies carried chain-link leather handbags, knit caps, long knit scarves, opaque tights, long boots, thick belts, and thigh-highs.

What’s Wearable:  The ladies can definitely rock the evening dresses, skinny trousers, fur coats, and A-line skirts. The men will look smashing and slick in the slimming suits and blazers.

What’s Not Wearable: I don’t know how enthusiastic men will be to sport the feminine-looking leather belt with the circle hardware. And some of the plaid long skirts make the gals look like they just stepped out of finishing school.

1 comment February 10th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Y-3

Y-3 Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  If there were inhabitants on the moon, Yohji Yamamoto’s fall collection would be a perfect fit.  From the street b-boy to the woman-on-the-go, this is the perfect metro garb for those who like to look stylishly sporty, but don’t want to actually get physical.

Color Palette:  A gravel surface of grays, blacks and browns are shot with a temporary dose of primary colors red and blue.  Colors may be sparse, but with the manipulated panache he adds, the basic shades become full of character.
 
Silhouettes: For the men – baggy, yet fittingly masculine.  For the women – clean shapes and appropriate necklines that have an emphasis on urban modesty, but still maintain a playful sexiness. 

Accessories Report: Hats of all shapes and sizes: beanies (with and without pompoms), ivy caps, paper boy caps, fedoras – they’re all there.  In addition, sporty knit scarves from the small to the gigantic drape well on both men and women.  As always, bags (for both men and women) complement the clothes and warm, knit gloves (with and without fingertips) exude street-smart charm.  There was also a recurring appearance of this clunky plastic bead jewelry that was surprisingly very chic—not cheap and toy-like.

What’s Wearable: Every single piece (layered or not) in this “urban moonwalker” collection is undeniably wearable.  It’s obvious that Yamamoto designs boil over with urban flair.  His pieces of outerwear like his trenches, blazers and even his shedding mohair woman’s poncho, seem very fashionable and functional. Their greatest attribute to his zip-ups is their two-way capabilities – very fashion-savvy, yet refined.  To go with his Adidas blood, he gives a nice set of tracksuits, which are great for any person.  For women, the trend of sweaterdresses continues.  Even though the pieces are fairly basic, they exude an extravagant texture – very thoughtful and effortless.

What’s Not Wearable: The sequin appliqué is tolerable, but the scalloped feather look was didn’t hit the mark.  Other than that, Yamamoto proves that you can never go wrong with simplicity.

February 10th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Heatherette

Heatherette Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  Sassy, sexy and striking – the only way designers Richie Rich and Traver Rains work.  An overwhelming amount of stylish deconstruction walks down a piano key runway as they pay homage to New York City.  There is a hodgepodge of fused looks included in this collection – think futuristic kabuki New York punk rockers sent back into time to retro 1960’s London.

Color Palette:  From daring uses of reds, greens and blues to the extravagant use of the French-inspired black and white stripes – if you can name a color, chances are it was included in this collection.  But the main palette lies in their use of loud patterns.  With inspiration drawn from such a major metropolitan area, Heatherette had a lot to work with.  The segmented pieces included: 1.) clean graffiti prints in playful reds, blues and greens, 2.) French-inspired black and white stripes, 3.) soft, yet confident, peaches, pinks and creams – and a whole lot more!

Silhouettes:  Much like their color palette, Heatherette’s silhouettes are all over the place.  For the most part, they are flirty (for the women) and slim (for the men.)  Slip dresses with high waists complement Fashion Week’s emphasis on the waistline.  Heatherette also includes a cinched waist on their wild debutante dresses, which are quite flattering and youthful (some of them are overflowing with feathers.)  On the flipside, they still remember that not all women are girly.  They provide quirky 60’s inspired street wear and bohemian avant-garde garments.

Accessories Report:  Standing out from their potpourri of accessories is their chain-adorned handbag – stylish and extremely functional.  Oversized circular framed glasses give a bit of quirkiness, while a landslide of novel head wear pieces include fedoras and mime-like berets.  For some of their more “formal” attire, simple clutches contrast with busy Chrysler building printed dresses.  They also add a couple of Chihuahuas in the mix for some Paris Hilton pizazz. 

What’s Wearable: All pieces are laden with Heatherette style: unapologetic and impulsive.  The primary wearable aspect from this collection is the loud prints.  City skylines, “big apples” and music notes give fun concepts for basic screen print tees and graffiti-based garb.  In addition, the veritable cornucopia of conceptual street wear ranges from Park Avenue gaudiness to the modishly trashy rock and roller.  When pieced apart, there are some things that aren’t too costumey.  For one, the vests support fashion’s current direction.  Same goes for the high-waisted dresses and knitted, down home outerwear. Although they are a bit busy, they are wearable.

What’s Not Wearable: Some of the debutant dresses are a bit “tacky 80’s prom” – same goes with their superfluous use of feathers.  Even if Naomi Campbell wore this purple ostrich monstrosity, it was difficult to take seriously.  The whimsical nature of Rains and Rich is very appealing, but sometimes it’s too convoluted and haphazard – especially with their mixing and matching of Pucci-esque patterns.

2 comments February 9th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Cloak

Cloak Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  All in all, a well-edited "safe" collection.  Nothing too outrageous here.  Key trends included (1) toggle coats (love em!), (2) oversized detailing, (3) narrow shapes, and (4) fur trim.

Color Palette:  Completely composed of neutrals, mostly black and white.

Silhouettes:  Silhouettes were pretty narrow at Cloak.  Lots of slim cuts and "tailored" layering.  We saw narrow ties, narrow jacket lapels, and miniature collars.  However, we did see oversized detailing, especially on the coats and jackets.  Pockets, collars, and closures were exaggerated in size.  Other items we saw: chunky knit turtlenecks, sweater jackets, track jackets, motorcycle jackets, and safari-inspired jackets.

What’s Wearable: Literally everything.  We especially appreciated the toggle coats.  We’ve been pushing these for months, and we’re glad they’re finally getting the attention they deserve.

What’s Not Wearable: Our only recommendation–lighten up on the black! 

February 9th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  In the past three seasons, Narciso Rodriguez has been loosening up his silhouette.  Even though fashion is heading towards the more voluminous, we wish that Rodriguez would stay true to his roots and give us more of the svelte, understated style that earned him the praise of the CDFA in the first place.  For women, key trends are: (1) short sleeved dresses, (2) bubble shaped skirts, and (3) colorblocking.  For men, the key trends are: (1) the Three Button Suit, (2) narrow ties, (3) knee length shorts, and (4) short sleeved sweaters.

Color Palette:  Black and white, with shades of cream, peach, and bluish grey.

Silhouettes: Not the classic Rodriguez "fits like a glove" silhouette–even the fitted items were worn looser.  We also saw capes, short sleeved dresses (a new trend?), and slightly bubble-shaped and flared skirts for women.  For men, we saw slim cut three-button suits, narrow ties, knee length shorts (paired with a button down shirt, tie, and jacket!), 3/4 length coats, and short sleeved and sleeveless sweaters.

Accessories Report:  Structured handbags, bags with chain handles, capes, and colorblocked knee-high boots.

What’s Wearable: Most everything shown, both for men and women, is wearable, though we would appreciate a more structured fit to the clothing.

What’s Not Wearable:
Shiny vinyl-type fabrics don’t generally translate well off the runway.  We also won’t be wearing Rodriguez’s long sleeved dress with a center front lower torso vertical cutout.  And because of the generous cut, some of the dresses ended up looking matronly.  

1 comment February 8th, 2006

Fashion Week Notebook | Lacoste

Lacoste Fall 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways:  For better or for worse, the Lacoste show was reminiscent of a preppy hipster whacked out on street style.  Key trends included (1) Sweaterdresses, (2) Tights, (3) The elbow-length glove, (4) Sporty Stripes (what’d you expect from Lacoste?), (5) Shearling for both women and men, (6) Miniskirts, and (7) Mod-style colorblocking.

Color Palette:  Turquoise, Purple, Pinks, Browns, Oranges, Reds, and a Harvest Gold, on a black, white, and beige palette.  Fabrics were mostly solid, though some stripes and plaids were thrown in for good measure.

Silhouettes:  Silhouettes were generally lean, though there were some more voluminous pieces shown layered on top of slim foundations.  Women wore sweaterdresses, tights, polos and short skirts, hooded belted trenchcoats,safari jackets, and blouson shorts.  The men wore slightly poofy winter jackets, sporty track jackets, Members Only-type jackets, slim v-neck sweaters, and slim cut pants.

Accessories Report: For women: Tiered puffy boots (bizarre), bucket hats (some with two-piece brims), and the everpresent long glove.  Men sported caps, fedoras, pseudo-bucket hats, and Giant Nerd Glasses.  Both men and women wore lanyard-style keychains around their necks.  Ahh…it brings us back to our college days.

What’s Wearable: It’s Lacoste, so there were a multitude of wearable styles.  While the individual pieces weren’t groundbreaking, we appreciated the work of the stylist who layered the clothes on the models.  We found the sweater-on-top-of-polo look to be particularly preppy-cute.

What’s Not Wearable: Well, we’ve never been fans of Uggs, so those tiered puffy boots were a no-go for us.  Watch out for the intense colorblocking as well, lest you appear to be colorblind.

Want more fun with Fashion Week?  Check out Omiru’s mid-week trend recap.

2 comments February 7th, 2006

NY Fashion Week Mid-Week Trend Recap

We’re only halfway through fashion week, but we
thought we’d start recapping some of the big trends we’ve been seeing
over and over again:

A
few other trends we’re seeing popping up are shearling, tie-neck and
tie-waist garments, and sweaterdresses.  Bows, cardigans, bermudas,
trenchcoats, cropped styles, and waist emphasis all continue from
Spring 2006.

High Waisted Styles: Empire waist styles and high-waisted pants are Huge right now. 
Y and Kei
, Diane Von Furstenberg, Alice Roi, Doo Ri, United Bamboo


Voluminous Sleeves: 
Sometimes it’s just a puff at the shoulder, but we’ve also seen some leg of mutton sleeves out there.
Twinkle
, Diane Von Furstenberg, Alice Roi, Doo Ri, Three As Four


Bubble Skirts: Cute skirts with gathered fabric
at the bottom.  They look nice on models, but not as good on short
people like me.
Badgley Mischka
, Doo Ri, Twinkle, United Bamboo

Vests: I guess that Wall of Vests I saw last weekend at H&M was Right On Trend, not only for Spring but also for Fall.
Tomer
, Rachel Comey, Twinkle, Diane Von Furstenberg, United Bamboo

Ruffles: Again with the Spring 2006 trends…
Doo Ri
, Three As Four


Hooded Trenchcoats:
The Newest Take on the classic Trench.


Lacoste
, Three As Four

And for accessories…


Long (up to elbow-length!) gloves:
You too can look like you’re going to the opera when you’re
actually just going to the mall!

Lacoste
, Nicole Miller, Diane Von Furstenberg, Badgley Mischka, Alice Roi, Doo Ri


Leggings and Tights: Good for layering, but watch what you put over them.  Oh and let’s not do the 1980s again.  Please?
Rachel Comey
, Twinkle, Yigal Azrouel


"Handmade" knitted scarves:
As Dino would say, "just like grandma used to make."

Tomer
, John Bartlett, Twinkle.

3 comments February 7th, 2006

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