Academy of Art University graduate designers presented concise collections of clear vision–and execution. Who should you keep your eyes on?  Omiru’s top three picks for up-and-coming design talent:

Andrea Vance, MFA Textile and Fashion Design
Andrea opened the show with a collection of beautiful yellow and black dresses featuring blown-up images of the structure and silhouettes of Japanese bamboo basketry.  Despite the loud patterns, each of the dresses exuded a whimsical sort of grace.  As the patterns became more modern so too the cut of the dresses.  A fun element was the use of neon yellow and orange radios as headpieces - whimsical and charming.

Jiyoon "Lydia" Yeom, MFA Knitwear Design
Inspired by nature’s spirit, Jiyoon Yeom presented beautifully crafted knitwear in a wide range of colors and fabulous textures.  Layering techniques on sleeves of one pattern over another added a richness and almost gypsy spirit to her collection.  We took note of the collection’s punkishly graceful lines, which lent a deep and unexpected sophistication to knitwear.  Accesories included fabulous colorful and overstated knit bangle bracelets in hot pinks and oranges.

Color Palette:  Neutrals mixed with purples, blues, peaches, and reds.

Silhouettes:  Narciso’s traditional architectural suits (a must for every season) were accompanied by minidresses, smock dresses, loosely fitted blouses, and a cocoon-shaped bubble hemmed coat.  Silhouettes were either small-over-big, with a fitted top and a voluminous bottom, or small-over-small.  Narciso emphasized the waistline through a skintight fit at the waist instead of the more common use of the belt.

For men, Narciso created structured suits–and even a blazer-on-shorts combination.  Of note was the extremely narrow jacket lapels for men.

Accessories Report:  For women, a wide fabric belt, often constructed with self fabric.  For men, narrow-to-medium width ties.

What’s Wearable: The voluminous sleeve seen on many of the blouses is kind to those with heavy upper arms.  And for those blessed with stellar legs, Narciso’s miniskirts and minidresses are quite fetching.

For men, the jackets with narrow lapels work well on men of small to average build.  Men with an athletic shape, however, should opt for a thicker lapel for visual balance.

What’s Not Wearable:  For women, roomy, straight-up-and-down smocks make you look larger than life.

Color Palette:  Diane von Furstenberg went island-hopping with her color choices, adding reds, yellows, oranges, greens, and rich blues to a palette of neutrals.

Silhouettes:  Dresses stole the show. Asymmetrical dresses, maxi dresses, empire waist dresses, tunic dresses, sheath dresses, t-shirt dresses, and Diane’s signature wrap and shirtdresses.  Waistlines ranged from near the hip (drop waist styles) to the natural waistline to below the bust (empire waist styles).  Keeping on trend, Diane showed high-waisted wide leg pants, shirtdresses with cuffed sleeves, and maxi dresses.  Of note were the matching jacket and skirt combinations–sure to be a hit on the retail floor.

Accessories Report:  Scarves tied around the head, an off-center fedora, oversized square-shaped sunglasses, and long, jeweled necklaces.

What’s Wearable:  Figure flattery favorites included the high-waisted pants, the wrap styles, and the well-cut shirtdresses.

What’s Not Wearable:  Big prints on floor-length dresses can be overwhelming on small frames.  Wear with caution.

What’s Wearable:  Just about everything, right down to the knee-length skirts (universally flattering).

What’s Not Wearable:  Not applicable for this collection.