Archive for March, 2007
Fall 2007 in Scandinavia is all about feminine fabrics and details. Satin, silk, and sheer fabrics are combined with oodles of lace, ruffles and bows. Silhouettes tended towards the voluminous but are controlled through the use of belts, cinching and cuffs. Dark, subdued tones rule the runway complementing the usual suspects of black, white and gray.
SILHOUETTES
Short Hemlines
Mads Nørgaard, Nur Rock, Stine Goya, Jespine Philbert, Rand Jeans
Controlled Volume
Inwear, Rützou, Baum und Pferdgarten, Ivan Grundahl
High Waisted Styles
Ivana Helsinki, Gestuz, Dr. Denim, Noa Noa
A-line Styles
Elise Gug, Rützou, Noa Noa, Bitte Kai Rand, Annhagen
High Necklines
Mads Nørgaard, Inwear, Designer’s Remix, Gestuz, Camilla Norrback
Belted Styles
Elise Gug, Ivan Grundahl, Sand, Noa Noa, Gentlemen’s Affair, Bruuns Bazaar
Empire Waistlines
Rützou, Sand, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Malene Birger, Bitte Kai Rand
DETAILING
Ruffles
Designer’s Remix, Baum und Pferdgarten, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Malene Birger, Noa Noa
Cuffed Styles
Inwear, Rützou, Elise Gug, Sand, Day Birger et Mikkelsen
Bows
Elise Gug, Ivana Helsinki, Bruuns Bazaar, Sand, Malene Birger, Gentlemen’s Affair
Mirrors
Munthe plus Simonsen, Rützou
Embroidery
Munthe plus Simonsen, Rützou, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, By Groth
Puffy Sleeves
Munthe plus Simonsen, Designer’s Remix, Bruuns Bazaar, Baum und Pferdgarten, Camilla Norrback
Pleats
Munthe plus Simonsen, Rützou, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Malene Birger, By Groth
Cinched Sleeves
Rützou, Designer’s Remix, Baum und Pferdgarten
Lace
Munthe plus Simonsen, Inwear, Sand, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, By Groth
FABRIC & PATTERN
Plaid
Designer’s Remix, Rand Jeans, Ivan Grundahl
Geometric Prints
Inwear, Designer’s Remix, Baum und Pferdgarten, Gentlemen’s Affair
Satin
Munthe plus Simonsen, Inwear, Noa Noa, By Groth, Gentlemen’s Affair
Stripes
Mads Nørgaard, Inwear, Noa Noa, Bitte Kai Rand
Fur
Elise Gug, Dalsgaard, B.A.P, Ivan Grundahl, Sand
Leather
Munthe plus Simonsen, Rützou, Mads Nørgaard, Annhagen, Ivan Grundahl
Textured Knits
Inwear, Elise Gug, Designer’s Remix, Malene Birger, Thelin
Metallic Shine
Rützou, Mads Nørgaard, Graumann, H.U.G.S by Vonryba
Sheer Fabrics
Inwear, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Malene Birger, Noa Noa, Bitte Kai Rand, By Groth
GARMENT CLASSIFICATIONS
Shorts
Munthe plus Simonsen, Inwear, Jespine Philbert, Rand Jeans, By Groth
Skinny Pants
Munthe plus Simonsen, Mads Nørgaard, Rützou, Bruuns Bazaar
Pedal Pushers/Capris
Rützou, Inwear, Munthe plus Simonsen, Malene Birger, Noa Noa, By Groth
Wrap Dresses
Elise Gug, Rosanna Julie
Leggings
Mads Nørgaard, Dreams by Isabel Christensen, Cecil Marie Martensen, Noa Noa, Bitte Kai Rand
Long Tops (e.g. Tunics and Caftans)
Munthe plus Simonsen, Inwear, Rützou, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Malene Birger
Wide Leg Trousers
Rützou, Ivan Grundahl, Robert & Blad, Bruuns Bazaar, Sand, Day Birger et Mikkelsen
Pencil Skirts
Inwear, Elise Gug, Dr. Denim
ACCESSORIES
Oversized Bags
Inwear, Designer’s Remix, Bruuns Bazaar, Ivan Grundahl, Malene Birger
Long Gloves
Munthe plus Simonsen, Rützou, Dalsgaard, Ivan Grundahl, Malene Birger
Ankle Boots
Elise Gug, Inwear
Oversized Belts
By Petrine L, Bildt & Prior, Malene Birger
Skinny Belts
Elise Gug, Sand, Bitte Kai Rand
Legwarmers
Mads Nørgaard, Ivan Grundahl, Noa Noa
Knee-length Socks
Rützou, Bruuns Bazaar
Pictured: Munthe plus Simonsen (top right) and Rützou (middle left).
March 11th, 2007
By Priyanka Ghosh and Julie Gulfer
Key Takeaways: Munthe plus Simonsen’s use of leather, lace and chiffon made for a collection that exuded urban femininity. Key trends included: pleated skirts, the china neck collar, luxe sweaters, the military jacket, and ruffles. And true to their roots, Munthe plus Simonsen featured copious amounts of ethnic detailing and bohemian prints.
Color Palette: Can we say blue? Peacock, navy, indigo, azure and turquoise were complemented by black and charcoal.
Silhouettes: Big over small: Lacy Renaissance style blouses over black skinny pants in leather and denim and slim knee-length shorts. Big over big: Airy puffy sleeved caftans over sagging wide leg trousers and calf-length pleated asymmetrical skirts.
Accessories Report: Black leather galore—thigh high boots, newsboy caps, long gloves and wide wrap-around belts. Also of note was the short boy-cut hair on all of the models.
What’s Wearable: We loved the collection of loose flirty tops, from simple monochrome satin blouses to intricately embroidered tunics and caftans. The subtly tailored floaty fabric flatters women of all shapes.
What’s Not Wearable: The calf-length pleated skirts in stiff fabrics enlarged the hips and managed to make the lithe models look boxy and frumpy. And while we liked the relaxed style of the wide leg trousers, we do not recommend sagging them from the hips.
March 11th, 2007
By Priyanka Ghosh and Julie Gulfer
Key Takeaways: The title of this Mads Nørgaard show was Speak Up, and the theme was that “what you wear should support you in your ways and beliefs.†This 80s and 90s inspired collection stayed true to its theme with a range of provocative statement-making fashion geared towards the liberal-minded urban youth of Europe. Key trends included: the mini skirt, logo tees, mock-neck and turtleneck collars, color blocking and off-the-shoulder tops.
Color Palette: Three color schemes dominated: (1) Basic black, white and grey, (2) Bright primary colors of yellow, blue, green and red, and (3) Metallics.
Silhouettes: In a fashion week characterized by volume and layering, Mads Nørgaard’s collection felt pointedly slim and sleek. Straight hip-hugging mini skirts were paired with seamless mock-neck zip jackets. Snug long-sleeved cotton tunics were slipped on over neon leggings and tights. Light jersey knit sweatshirts worn off the shoulder were worn with high-waisted patent leather skinny pants.
Accessories Report: Leggy models strutted down the runway in short skirts and tight tops, while their necks and heads were covered in the politically charged black hijab veil. This accessory demanded that the audience acknowledge the undeniable intersection between fashion and politics. Other accessories included leg warmers, ski caps and scarves tied around the neck in a bandit-like fashion.
What’s Wearable: We adored the black jersey tunic worn with one sleeve off the shoulder, as the off-the-shoulder style can elongate even the shortest of necks.
What’s Not Wearable: Steer clear of the neon yellow and orange spandex tights, as they are liable to super-size legs and thighs.
March 11th, 2007
By Priyanka Ghosh and Julie Gulfer
Key Takeaways: Clean lines and soft fabrics made for a very wearable collection. Elise Gug’s conservative yet chic collection is reminiscent of the innocent elegance of young Audrey Hepburn (down to her signature up do). The monochromatic collection featured key trends of cashmere knits, quilted top coats, tapered trousers, and pencil skirts in lightweight silk taffeta.
Color Palette: Black and chocolate, along with earth tones—brown, tan, beige, sandy taupe and some burnt orange—dominated the runway. Soft heather grey also made an appearance.
Silhouettes: Sleek, tailored pieces such as slim cut, straight legged trousers and high-waisted pleated skirts contrasted with breezy lightweight dresses and loose fitting A-line winter coats. We also took note of the collection of black evening gowns with voluminous skirts and cinched waists accented by oversized sash-tie bows.
Accessories Report: Mufflers and gloves with dark fur trim and neutral colored pashminas acknowledged the cold autumn temperatures of Scandinavia. We also spotted chunky-heeled platform boots and skinny belts in worn black and brown leather.
What’s Wearable: We loved Elise Gug’s collection of loosely belted jersey dresses with natural waistlines. Gug’s dresses hug the right curves without clinging to the wrong ones. The loose three-quarter length sleeves hide large arms, while the U collar flatters the neckline.
What’s Not Wearable: While the plunging, v-shaped backs on the evening gowns looked exquisite on the models, this revealing cut requires women to have uber-toned backs with blemish free skin and flawless posture.
March 10th, 2007
By Priyanka Ghosh and Julie Gulfer
Key Takeaways: Inwear’s Autumn 2007 collection explored the dichotomous nature of femininity. The Inwear woman is strong and sexy sporting menswear that boldly outlines her curves, while soft and sensual wearing sheer blouses and frilly skirts. Key trends included: plaid bottoms and outerwear, sweater jackets, laser cut detailing, lace, and geometric patterns.
Color Palette: Lots of black, along with somber grey, purple, navy and burgundy
Silhouettes: Silhouettes were sculpted and ranged from slim to voluminous. Precisely tailored power suits created a long and lean look perfect for the office. Belted knit cardigans were worn over high-waisted pencil skirts with sexy front-center slits. Evening wear consisted of slinky knee-length sheaths in rich silk and satin along with lace-trimmed 50s style poodle skirt dresses.
Accessories Report: Patent leather ankle boots, leather shoulder bags with gold buckles and zippers, fingerless biker gloves, fishnet stockings, striped knit scarves and chunky art deco necklaces.
What’s Wearable: This collection produced some basic knits that every woman should own: the burgundy keyhole shirt, the heather grey belted cardigan and the crème colored cowl neck sweater. We also adored the navy double-breasted trench dress because of its extreme versatility and cute oversized buttons.
What’s Not Wearable: Most of this collection was very wearable, though we would stay away from some of the short-short printed boy shorts that cling to the caboose and look like underwear.
March 10th, 2007
By Priyanka Ghosh and Julie Gulfer
Key Takeaways: Rützou’s collection was all about contradictions in silhouettes, colors and detailing. Strong simple lines merged with layered volume. Smooth silks and satin combined with beaten wools and basic cottons. Rützou paired somber muted hues with seductive splashes of bright colors. Romantic embroidery details were juxtaposed with rebellious leather and stiff metal.
Color Palette: Army green, ink blue and steel grey black were accented by vivid tones of red, purple and parrot green.
Silhouettes: Big over small. Long-sleeved frocks with loosely gathered pleats were worn over capri-length tights or cuffed pedal pushers. Free flowing peasant tops with wrist length sleeves cinched just below the shoulders were worn over skinny pants. Tight bolero vests in textured fabrics accompanied A-line tanks. Details included embroideries, stylized prints, strips of silk and leather, mirrors and metallic accents.
Accessories Report: Platform pumps, elbow length gloves in bold primary colors, and textured knee-length socks. Long hair ironed straight and paired with an oversized leather headband also dominated the runway.
What’s Wearable: Cropped bolero vests with mirror and embroidery detailing worn over A-line tanks flatter the bust while hiding a tummy. We also took note of the long sleeves on the frocks which visually slim and lengthen the arms.
What’s Not Wearable: If Lil’ Kim and Sporty Spice designed a clothing line, their centerpiece might be a pair of wide legged, bright green satin drawstring pants with a shiny white racer stripe down the side. We’re not fans of this look. We also thought that the long scarf made entirely of leather gloves was a bit over the top. Gloves look great on hands. Let’s keep them there.
March 10th, 2007
Omiru is pleased to bring you a touch of Scandinavian style with coverage of Copenhagen Fashion Week, Fall 2007. Check back over the next couple of days for our signature show reviews and a comprehensive trend report.
Introducing our two Copenhagen-based guest contributors, Priyanka Ghosh and Julie Gulfer!
Priyanka Ghosh has the mind of a political scientist and the soul of a fashionista. When she is not trapped in the Danish libraries researching her Fulbright thesis on Euroskepticism (she’s not sure what it is either), she is wandering along the canals of Copenhagen, soothing her soul with Miss Sixty jeans, shoes from Friis and Company, Karen Millen dresses, cheap accessories from Vero Moda and uber-chic pieces from Tiger of Sweden that she can’t afford but buys anyway.
Julie Gufler, a native of Denmark, is studying literature and modern art and culture at the University of Copenhagen. When not studying or spending time with friends in the cafes of Copenhagen, she’s a freelance writer, producing articles on fashion, contemporary art and literature.
Pictured: Munthe plus Simonsen, Fall 2007 collection.
March 10th, 2007
Issue No. 76 of the Friday Fashion Hotlist: a weekly compilation of the
cutest and coolest stuff Omiru’s Style Intelligence Report saw out there this
week.
This
week, we’re spotlighting The Best Warm Weather Cardigans to take you through the weekend. We present to
you a Parisian-chic SEE by Chloe sweater for women and a distressed Triple Five Soul cardigan for men.
SEE by Chloe Short Sleeved Knit Cardigan | $400 at
Azalea SF
Triple Five Soul Backstage Cardigan| $89 at Urban Outfitters
March 9th, 2007
Although designer Linda Ly now resides in LA, part of her will always remain a New Yorker. She loves the urban chic of messenger bags, so when Begeren’s original messenger style (the Chelsea Cargo Sling) launched last season to much success, she decided to create a smaller version with sleeker, more structured detailing. The namesake bag shares Brooklyn’s hip, eclectic vibe that she adores.
Fun fact about Linda? She has a stripper pole installed in begeren’s studio and hosts impromptu pole dancing nights with her girlfriends. Says Linda, "It’s the most fabulous workout and so much fun!"
$525 at Begeren.
March 9th, 2007
Q: When the weather gets warmer, I want to wear shorts. But I’m petite (5′2"), and I can’t seem to find a pair that doesn’t make me look short.
A: You can wear shorts–but it’s all about proportion. Short shorts, while they visually elongate the legs, are generally unflattering unless you’re blessed with a model’s figure. And below-the-knee styles cut your legs in a way that visually chops off a few inches of height.
Make the most of what you’ve got by choosing a pair of shorts that hits at about the knee level. Everyone has an optimal shorts (and skirt) length. Find yours by standing in front of a mirror and rolling up the short legs little by little until you find the length that makes your legs look the longest and leanest.
Our final tip? Look for shorts with a lean leg in order to optimize your visual height.
Pictured: Vince Stone Washed Twill Knee Crop Shorts | $155 at Shopbop
Style question? We’ve got answers. E-mail us at tips at omiru dot com, or leave us a comment with your question.
March 8th, 2007
Next Posts
Previous Posts
