Fall 2007 in Scandinavia is all about feminine fabrics and details. Satin, silk, and sheer fabrics are combined with oodles of lace, ruffles and bows. Silhouettes tended towards the voluminous but are controlled through the use of belts, cinching and cuffs. Dark, subdued tones rule the runway complementing the usual suspects of black, white and gray.
SILHOUETTES
Short Hemlines
Mads Nørgaard, Nur Rock, Stine Goya, Jespine Philbert, Rand Jeans
Controlled Volume
Inwear, Rützou, Baum und Pferdgarten, Ivan Grundahl
High Waisted Styles
Ivana Helsinki, Gestuz, Dr. Denim, Noa Noa
A-line Styles
Elise Gug, Rützou, Noa Noa, Bitte Kai Rand, Annhagen
High Necklines
Mads Nørgaard, Inwear, Designer’s Remix, Gestuz, Camilla Norrback
Belted Styles
Elise Gug, Ivan Grundahl, Sand, Noa Noa, Gentlemen’s Affair, Bruuns Bazaar
Empire Waistlines
Rützou, Sand, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Malene Birger, Bitte Kai Rand
DETAILING
Ruffles
Designer’s Remix, Baum und Pferdgarten, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Malene Birger, Noa Noa
Cuffed Styles
Inwear, Rützou, Elise Gug, Sand, Day Birger et Mikkelsen
Bows
Elise Gug, Ivana Helsinki, Bruuns Bazaar, Sand, Malene Birger, Gentlemen’s Affair
Mirrors
Munthe plus Simonsen, Rützou
Embroidery
Munthe plus Simonsen, Rützou, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, By Groth
Puffy Sleeves
Munthe plus Simonsen, Designer’s Remix, Bruuns Bazaar, Baum und Pferdgarten, Camilla Norrback
Pleats
Munthe plus Simonsen, Rützou, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Malene Birger, By Groth
Cinched Sleeves
Rützou, Designer’s Remix, Baum und Pferdgarten
Lace
Munthe plus Simonsen, Inwear, Sand, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, By Groth
FABRIC & PATTERN
Plaid
Designer’s Remix, Rand Jeans, Ivan Grundahl
Geometric Prints
Inwear, Designer’s Remix, Baum und Pferdgarten, Gentlemen’s Affair
Satin
Munthe plus Simonsen, Inwear, Noa Noa, By Groth, Gentlemen’s Affair
Stripes
Mads Nørgaard, Inwear, Noa Noa, Bitte Kai Rand
Fur
Elise Gug, Dalsgaard, B.A.P, Ivan Grundahl, Sand
Leather
Munthe plus Simonsen, Rützou, Mads Nørgaard, Annhagen, Ivan Grundahl
Textured Knits
Inwear, Elise Gug, Designer’s Remix, Malene Birger, Thelin
Metallic Shine
Rützou, Mads Nørgaard, Graumann, H.U.G.S by Vonryba
Sheer Fabrics
Inwear, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Malene Birger, Noa Noa, Bitte Kai Rand, By Groth
GARMENT CLASSIFICATIONS
Shorts
Munthe plus Simonsen, Inwear, Jespine Philbert, Rand Jeans, By Groth
Skinny Pants
Munthe plus Simonsen, Mads Nørgaard, Rützou, Bruuns Bazaar
Pedal Pushers/Capris
Rützou, Inwear, Munthe plus Simonsen, Malene Birger, Noa Noa, By Groth
Wrap Dresses
Elise Gug, Rosanna Julie
Leggings
Mads Nørgaard, Dreams by Isabel Christensen, Cecil Marie Martensen, Noa Noa, Bitte Kai Rand
Long Tops (e.g. Tunics and Caftans)
Munthe plus Simonsen, Inwear, Rützou, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Malene Birger
Wide Leg Trousers
Rützou, Ivan Grundahl, Robert & Blad, Bruuns Bazaar, Sand, Day Birger et Mikkelsen
Pencil Skirts
Inwear, Elise Gug, Dr. Denim
ACCESSORIES
Oversized Bags
Inwear, Designer’s Remix, Bruuns Bazaar, Ivan Grundahl, Malene Birger
Long Gloves
Munthe plus Simonsen, Rützou, Dalsgaard, Ivan Grundahl, Malene Birger
Ankle Boots
Elise Gug, Inwear
Oversized Belts
By Petrine L, Bildt & Prior, Malene Birger
Skinny Belts
Elise Gug, Sand, Bitte Kai Rand
Legwarmers
Mads Nørgaard, Ivan Grundahl, Noa Noa
Knee-length Socks
Rützou, Bruuns Bazaar
Pictured: Munthe plus Simonsen (top right) and Rützou (middle left).
March 11th, 2007
By Priyanka Ghosh and Julie Gulfer
Key Takeaways: Munthe plus Simonsen’s use of leather, lace and chiffon made for a collection that exuded urban femininity. Key trends included: pleated skirts, the china neck collar, luxe sweaters, the military jacket, and ruffles. And true to their roots, Munthe plus Simonsen featured copious amounts of ethnic detailing and bohemian prints.
Color Palette: Can we say blue? Peacock, navy, indigo, azure and turquoise were complemented by black and charcoal.
Silhouettes: Big over small: Lacy Renaissance style blouses over black skinny pants in leather and denim and slim knee-length shorts. Big over big: Airy puffy sleeved caftans over sagging wide leg trousers and calf-length pleated asymmetrical skirts.
Accessories Report: Black leather galore—thigh high boots, newsboy caps, long gloves and wide wrap-around belts. Also of note was the short boy-cut hair on all of the models.
What’s Wearable: We loved the collection of loose flirty tops, from simple monochrome satin blouses to intricately embroidered tunics and caftans. The subtly tailored floaty fabric flatters women of all shapes.
What’s Not Wearable: The calf-length pleated skirts in stiff fabrics enlarged the hips and managed to make the lithe models look boxy and frumpy. And while we liked the relaxed style of the wide leg trousers, we do not recommend sagging them from the hips.
March 11th, 2007
By Priyanka Ghosh and Julie Gulfer
Key Takeaways: The title of this Mads Nørgaard show was Speak Up, and the theme was that “what you wear should support you in your ways and beliefs.†This 80s and 90s inspired collection stayed true to its theme with a range of provocative statement-making fashion geared towards the liberal-minded urban youth of Europe. Key trends included: the mini skirt, logo tees, mock-neck and turtleneck collars, color blocking and off-the-shoulder tops.
Color Palette: Three color schemes dominated: (1) Basic black, white and grey, (2) Bright primary colors of yellow, blue, green and red, and (3) Metallics.
Silhouettes: In a fashion week characterized by volume and layering, Mads Nørgaard’s collection felt pointedly slim and sleek. Straight hip-hugging mini skirts were paired with seamless mock-neck zip jackets. Snug long-sleeved cotton tunics were slipped on over neon leggings and tights. Light jersey knit sweatshirts worn off the shoulder were worn with high-waisted patent leather skinny pants.
Accessories Report: Leggy models strutted down the runway in short skirts and tight tops, while their necks and heads were covered in the politically charged black hijab veil. This accessory demanded that the audience acknowledge the undeniable intersection between fashion and politics. Other accessories included leg warmers, ski caps and scarves tied around the neck in a bandit-like fashion.
What’s Wearable: We adored the black jersey tunic worn with one sleeve off the shoulder, as the off-the-shoulder style can elongate even the shortest of necks.
What’s Not Wearable: Steer clear of the neon yellow and orange spandex tights, as they are liable to super-size legs and thighs.
March 11th, 2007