Archive for September, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Costello Tagliapietra

 Costello Tagliapietra Spring 2007
Photo Credit:
Omiru: Style for All

Key Takeaways: Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra’s Spring 2007 line reminds us of the classic cuts used in their Fall 2006 collection.  Both seasons share the duo’s passion for detail and tailoring, while the new Spring line brings us to another level of delicate elegance with a focus on excellently draped silks and sweetly simple dresses.  Fluttering and fit sleeves perfectly matched the fun tie-at-chest level detailing.  Beading also adding a sparkly extra for our viewing pleasure.  Our favorite moment, however, was when both designers appeared in matching lumberjack-esque outfits.  What a sharp contrast to their light and fancy dresses!

Color Palette: There’s something to be said for dusty understated colors of grey, pink, lavender, peach, salmon and orange.  Especially when they come together to add to the charm of a classic spring date dress.

Silhouettes: Each of the dresses sported gently fitted tops and bottoms with loose draping.  Shoulders are de-emphasized with a conscious lack of shoulder padding/structure.  Dresses feature flutter sleeves or bandeau-tie tops with ruching.

Accessories Report:  Costello and Tagliapietra are bringing "sexy back" (quick pop reference to Justin Timberlake’s summer hit) by keeping it simple with delicate stilletos that match the feminine flow of the dresses.
 
What’s Wearable:  Most of the collection had a great warm spring evening wearability.  With the right accessories, the 3/4 sleeve length with pencil skirt bottom dresses could also be work appropriate.

What’s Not Wearable:  Avoid the fluttery high waisted tops without any structure — they”ll give you an odd rectangle body shape if worn incorrectly.

September 13th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Duckie Brown

Duckie Brown Spring 2007
Photo Credit: Coutorture

Key Takeaways:  Designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver maintain a fashionable sense of humor with spring apparel that is both uber-baggy and uniquely tailored.  All in all, it’s casual clothing for the lazy model.

Color Palette: Soft blues and earthy tones are combined with solid grays and blacks to create a simple, yet eye catching palette.

Silhouettes: We see a clear journey in the silhouettes as the garments progressed – first gangsta baggy, then loose-fit, and then fitted.

Accessories Report: A couple of strategically placed beanies are the only accessories in sight in this collection.

What’s Wearable: Although the sweaters are two sizes too big on all the models, they look very comfortable –same goes with some of the pants.  We also appreciated a brown plaid hooded suit, which was both enjoyable and innovative.  As for other forms of outerwear, most of the blazers are doable for the fashion savvy man – especially the black and white print ones.

What’s Not Wearable: The holey deconstructed piece seemed more suitable for a stylish hobo in a back alley drinking a 40 oz. out of a paper bag.  Also, he ballooning pants looked like scrub bottoms for the big and tall. They would not only make pre-bankrupt M.C. Hammer happy, but they would also fit a family of four comfortably.  Very funny, guys!

September 13th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Atil Kutoglu

 <Atil Kutoglu Spring 2007
Photo Credit: New York Magazine

Key Takeaways: Atil Kutoglu’s exotic Turkish background suggests a collection that hints at opulence, and this season is no exception as he delivers  comfortably rich pashima shawls tied around the neck and fitted pieces paired with loose tunic-inspired jackets and outerwear.

Color Palette: Spring’s fancy has arrived in the form of pastels and basics: dusty blue, pale canary yellow, beiges and greys are chased with a fresh breath of shimmery golds, sparkling turquoises and a striking orange-red.

Silhouettes: The three L’s are in order:  Long, Lean and Layered.  Each combination that walked down the runway featured one of these elements and eschewed traditional rules of a fit bottom and loose top or vice versa for pieces that accentuated the shape of the hips but that did not ignore other parts of the body.

Accessories Report: Can we say tassels? Almost all of the models were featured wearing a small tassel necklace on a delicate chain.  So chic!  We also spotted the scarves mentioned before and lace-up Roman flats.

What’s Wearable: Hello, Casual Friday.  Three cheers for the almost-carelessly rolled up sleeves that remind us of sitting at home relaxing with a delicious novel and a glass of iced tea.

What’s Not Wearable:  Avoid the chest-flattening tube-dresses that may induce cleavage overflow in more voluptuous women.

1 comment September 12th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Reem Acra

 
Photo Credit:
Omiru: Style for All

Key Takeaways:  Reem Acra has decided to add a sheen to Spring.   Her romantic eveningwear maintains a consistant flirty and flowy feel with half of the collection featuring a sheen finish.  Classic chiffon, brocade, starburst embroidery and beading, and even dip-dye techniques take this collection from from lovely to luxurious. As in Fall 2006, Acra has included at least one piece in a blood red (see above) that is so striking, we can’t help but feature it.  We also loved a pale cream grecian inspired dress that featured a cape that flowed back into the dress.  Vraiment romantique!

Color Palette:  Warm beiges, golds and browns predominate with a range of additional colors including white, blue, grey, pink-lavender and, of course, blood red.  

Silhouettes:  Puff sleeves dominate the more casual chiffon-based pieces, and trapeze shapes also appear in very Mod-ern dresscoats.  However, most of the line drives home a very romantic, yet structured, feel with the stiffer fabrics.  Skirt and dress bottoms range from knee-length styles to long floor-sweeping A-lines that seem to glide across the floor to sheath dresses with small trailing trains. 

Accessories Report:  How does a designer encourage an audience to focus on only the clothes in the collection?  Simple.   Do away with all handbags and jewelry and retain the same neutral flesh-tone on the straps of  the models’ stiletto shoes.

What’s Wearable:  We adored the simple wide chiffon straps and the lovely delicateness of the full length dresses that barely swept the floor.

What’s Not Wearable:  If large chested, do avoid a very low V-neckline.  Only you can prevent wardrobe malfunctions.

1 comment September 12th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Tuleh

Tuleh Spring 2007
Photo Credit: NY Metro

Key Takeaways: Volume was definitely in the picture again, but this time it was mainly in the sleeves. Tuleh paired blouses with loose sleeves with clean, A-line knee-length skirts; the juxtoposition of the airy tops and form-fitting skirts was a winner. Another key trend was cocktail dresses with bubble bottoms and tight bodices. Trousers were noticeably less prominent in this collection–it’s clear Tuleh wants to give women back their femininity.

Color Palette: Main colors were black and white, but beige, orange, and pink made an appearance.

Silhouettes: A-line skirts, chiffon blouses with voluminous sleeves, loose trousers, double-breasted  coats, crewnecked houndstooth suits with cap sleeves, boatnecked dresses with bubble bottoms, mini skirts, wrap jackets, loose shirtdresses, mini cardigans, and strapless dresses with frills. 

Accessories Report: Accessories were minimal, allowing viewers to focus on the clothes. One model was seen wearing a black feather hat with a square crown.  Slick black belts worn at the waist accompanied long dresses, skirts, and shirtdresses.

What’s Wearable: Almost all items were wearable, especially the A-line skirts, shirtdresses, and the cocktail dresses.

What’s Not Wearable: Some blouses were completely sheer, so if you’re not comfortable baring it all, try a tank top underneath.  Cocktail dresses with bubble skirts feel too flamboyant for many parties, unless you’re going to the Oscars.

September 12th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Rachel Comey

Rachel Comey models
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All  

Key Takeaways: Rachel Comey is single-handedly bringing back the sun visor. Well, we’re not so sure the  accessory was ever really in style, but either way, it’s on our radar for Spring 2007. Another interesting trend in Comey’s collection was gigantic trouser cuffs, seen on Bermuda length shorts and short pants. If you can’t picture how big the cuffs really are, we’ll just say they’re large enough to double as safe havens for your cell phone. As for shoes, look out for chunky platform heels next Spring.

Color Palette:
Comey’s overall color scheme was rather muted, so imagine the following hues in the most toned down versions of themselves: purple, brown, red, light peach, black, army green, teal, navy blue, and white.

Silhouettes: If you haven’t noticed so far, volume is a BIG trend at Fashion Week, and naturally, Comey’s collection followed suit. Controlled volume appeared in everything from bermuda shorts, scoop-neck dresses, triangle bikini tops, tube tops, button down shirts, dresses with deep v’s, both in the front and back, trapeze jackets, tiered tank tops, crocheted vests, and cigarette pants. The most unique piece, however, was a navy blue jersey dress with a large bow protruding from the chest area.

Accessories Report:
Belts of all kinds–thick, thin, and medium-sized–appeared on the catwalk. Some were black, one dared to be hot pink. Shoes included studded flats with ankle straps, chunky wedge sandals, and round-toe pumps (a throwback to previous seasons). Along with the straw visors (black or tan), all models sported next-t0-black lipstick on their lips. Comey had an interesting take on the  thick-belt-at-the-waist trend, designing a black cinched belt with a tan front and a unique buckle.

What’s Wearable: As native Californians, we’re all over the easygoing jersey knits and the loose shapes.  And if you tend to gravitate towards darker hues, Comey’s collection is ideal.

What’s Not Wearable: Sure, visors are good for blocking the sun, but we’re not sure how realistically they will translate to the streets.

September 12th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Ashleigh Verrier

Ashleigh Verrier Spring 2007
Photo Credit: Coutorture

Key Takeaways: Key trends from Fall 2006 continued to influence Ashleigh Verrier, a recent graduate of Parsons and a former apprentice at Proenza Schouler.  The idea of controlled volume permeated her collection, which featured fabric manipulations from ruffles to ruching.  Verrier also continued to work with higher waistlines and cropped jackets and capelets, all hallmarks of the Fall 2006 season.

Color Palette: Neutrals (black and white) were joined by gorgeously wearable shades of mustard, orange, dusky rose, sky blue, and ocean blue.

 Silhouettes: Form fitting silhouettes characterized Verrier’s collection: bustiers, pencil skirts, tailored tops, skinny shorts, and fitted dresses.  A sprinkle of A-line styles rounded out Verrier’s collection.  Of note are the sailor shorts (nautical’s still big), thick straps on tops and dresses, the extra-long placket, wide lapels, capelets, bows, and tops with peplums.

Accessories Report: Strappy platform sandals and espadrilles adorned the models’ feet.  Necklaces were either shown thoughtfully layered or with large dangling gems.

What’s Wearable: We loved a flapperesque navy and white beaded dress (pictured), a flutter sleeve belted striped dress, and a half-sleeve cream coat with oversized collar and pockets.

What’s Not Wearable: Steer clear of the horizontal striped skirt with hidden pleats, which we found unflattering even on the model.  We’d also avoid the fabric-blocked top with wide straps and a long peplum, which accentuates thick arms and thick middles.

1 comment September 12th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Baby Phat

  Baby Phat Spring 2007
Photo Credit: Coutorture

 Key Takeaways: Funky layering with a liberal sprinkle of vamp.  We saw many separately wearable pieces but no sense of cohesion within the line. Detailing ranged from cowl to circle-cut necklines and tweeds mixed with opulent satins.  Swimsuits are featured as summer-wear with short kimono sleeve coverings.  Suit sets mirror the kimono detailing, while dresses feature short flowy tails.

Color Palette: Classic Indy 500 colors rev up this collection with diva reds, whites and blacks.  Neutrals such as beige and grey are accented by maroon.

Silhouettes: Top-heavy outfits feature more conservative pieces on top and risque bottom pieces such as swim suit bottoms and form-fitting cropped pants.

Accessories Report: As always, Kimora Lee Simmons (or just KLS) focuses heavily on accessories including the requisite large funky earrings with bright detailing, oversized structured bags, small fanny packs reminiscent of those of Gucci and the occasional-odd banana leaf shaped hair hat.
 
What’s Wearable: Delightful small pockets flank either side of skirts or jackets and create a balanced look on pieces that may lack a focal point.

What’s Not Wearable: The colored tights (purple, blue) featured in the show may cause those without model-thin legs to appear larger then they should.   We’d also recommend passing on the banana leaf  hats.
 

1 comment September 11th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Alexandre Herchcovitch

Alexandre Herchcovitch Spring 2007
Photo Credit: Omiru: Style for All

 Key Takeaways: Halloween is not quite here, but it seems Herchcovitch drew some inspiration from his favorite costumes for his collection, which he described as inspired by Ndebele tribe of Zimbabwe. Don’t be spooked out, it’s nothing you can’t handle; we appreciated the skull adorned police cap, no doubt inspired by his fave necklace, which coincidentally features a skull.  True to form, we saw lots of color, lots of wackiness, and whole lotta attitude in this collection. And, if you thought every pattern in the world had been discovered, you’re wrong because Herchcovitch has come up with intricate patterns that rival the gorgeous stained glass windows of a European cathedral.

Color Palette: No colors in this collection are subtle: red, blue, yellow, white, green, black, pink, and lime green.

 Silhouettes: Much like its color, the silhouettes in this collection are not for the shy. We viewed tight overalls, loose off-the-shoulder dresses, boat-neck and cap-sleeve frocks, cropped trapeze jackets, flowy skirts, cuffed shorts, loose trousers, military-style jackets, pleated skirts, ultra-loose suits with cropped and cuffed pants.

Accessories Report: Aviator shades shielded the eyes of all the models, as did police caps marked with a skull emblem and Charlie Chaplin-style hats. Brooches held shawls in place, below-the-knee boots stomped the catwalk, and short leather gloves à la Michael Jackson graced the models’ hands. The rarest accessory, though, was a really thick and colorful bead-adorned necklace - if you can call it that, since its thickness rivaled that of a neck brace.  Doubt that these will really catch on with the masses, but they were visually interesting nevertheless.

What’s Wearable: Some pieces, if worn more modestly, can be pulled off in the streets. The cropped trapeze jacket was very chic, and a daring gal could definitely sport the military-like red jacket with buckles.

What’s Not Wearable: We’d recommend steering clear of the thick necklaces and hula-hoop-like belts, which we fear might make you look like a circus performer. Some of the patterns are too loud for the streets (we’d like them better in moderation), and we also spotted a pair of overalls that should be returned to its farmer owner immediately.

September 11th, 2006

Spring 2007 Fashion Week Notebook | Jenni Kayne

Jenni Kayne Spring 2007
Photo Credit: Coutorture

 Key Takeaways: Designer Jenni Kayne apparently shares the same dilemma as most women when it comes to clothes: do we cover up in loose clothing, or do we put it all out with barely-there duds? Along with tiny bikinis, skin-tight one-piece bathing suits, short bubble skirts, and even shorter shorts, Kayne also stuck with what seems to be a theme for Spring Fashion Week 2007: volume. So while the designer wants you to participate in the latest loose trend, she also encourages you to bare it all. 

 Color Palette: Mellow yellow, bright yellow, maroon, navy blue, black, grey, and brown.

Silhouettes: Dresses took center stage with loose-fitting empire-waist minis, deep v-necks, Grecian off-the-shoulder styles, and v-necks with airy short sleeves. Mini-shorts, bubble skirts, bikinis, cropped blazers, and grandpa cardigans also made their way into the collection.

Accessories Report: Accessories at Kayne’s show were limited to wide leather belts worn at the natural waistline, silk fabric tied into a bow also at the waist, large square totes, and J-Lo-esque hats that come all the way down and bunch around your face.

What’s Wearable: Kayne made an effort to design each piece so that it could walk off the runway and into your closet. While we wouldn’t go sporting the tiny bikini to the mall, everything else translated really well to the streets (and ballrooms).

 What’s Not Wearable: The peach-colored cropped leather jackets are not necessarily unwearable, but they may make you feel like a character straight out of Grease!

September 11th, 2006

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