Key Takeaways: Y & Kei designers Hanii Yoon and Gene Kang (husband and wife) have summoned an angelic look to the Spring runways. As in previous seasons, the color white was widespread, and though most the cuts were simple, we noted hints of intricacy via ruffles, tulip shaped-skirts, and a sophisticated juxtaposition of textures.
Color Palette: White was definitely the most prevalent, but Y & Kei branched out into other neutrals and metallics: black, charcoal grey, light grey, nude, and metallic silver. Purple, a huge color for fall, also made an appearance.
Silhouettes: Tulip skirts were of note, as were narrow-legged capris and trousers. Lines were clean and crisp, especially when it came to the trousers and outerwear. Tuxedo-like coats had tulip-shaped bottoms, and capelets featured ruffles.
Accessories Report: Due to the simplicity of this line, accessories were kept to a bare minimum. The only accessories we saw were a thin black belt, a thin white one, and a black satin scarf.
What’s Wearable: 99% of this line is wearable, especially if you love simplicity and the concept of "Less is More."
What’s Not Wearable: Some of the ruffled pieces are over-the-top for everyday wear.
Key Takeaways: Get ready to go sailing in Trovata’s Spring collection. The underlying theme, for both men and women, was seafaring, and each piece reflected the cool, casual feel of an expedition to sea. Key Spring 2007 trends included shorts, trapeze styles, and cuffed styles.
Color Palette: Crisp white, green, blue, brown, light blue, black, and yellow.
Silhouettes: For men: Crew neck styles, short sleeved sweaters, hooded sweatshirts, cutoff khaki shorts, cuffed cargos, and cardigans. For women: mini shirtdresses, trapeze jackets, cuffed shorts, cropped trenchcoats, and triangle-shaped Bermuda pants.
Accessories Report: Both men and women sported long, layered charm necklaces. For men: floppy caps, fedora hats, frilly scarves, and bucket caps. For women: large canvas bags, charm bracelets, belts at waist, silk scarves on head, and big floppy hats.
What’s Wearable: If you like the seaside look, everything is wearable. We’re digging the navy blue strapless dress with nautical button detailing (pictured).
What’s Not Wearable: We’re a bit skeptical about charm necklaces for men. The look is too much for traditionally primped metrosexual men, and other men don’t usually like to sport jewels.
Key Takeaways: The darling Australian duo of Heidi Middleton (Bide) and Sarah-Jane Clarke (Sass) have reinforced their motto of "don’t look too pretty." Instead of combining unusual fabric/leather/finishing choices, they used four basic colors to create contrast and strengthen a sense of uniqueness that they are known for. High U-shaped or choker necklines dominate this collection along with an interesting Greece meets American 80s sensibility seen through such pieces as a high-necked mesh-fronted dress.
Color Palette: In contrast to other collections, which generally feature two or more accent colors, Sass and & Bide showed strong neutrals of black, silver, white, matte gold and solo accents of mustard.
Silhouettes: For those of you who love the fitted and waist-centric silhouette of seasons before, Sass & Bide continue the trend. Lean tanks are combined with large tulip skirts in graphic color combinations. Low pockets on the dresses and thick straps accentuate the boldness of the structured shapes.
Accessories Report: We adored the sweet Roman-esque thin headbands that were combined with messy hair in buns, which added femininity to a slightly masculine line. Large obi-style belts with cording were also spotted (a return of the Japanese-influence?).
What’s Wearable: Comfort is found on the runway in the form of delicate slim knit tanks that can be worn under your everyday work blazers.
What’s Not Wearable: Avoid the bubble skirt silhouette unless you have an extremely straight-hipped figure.
Key Takeaways: We flit, we float, we want to fly away with the romantic gowns that are so exquisitely Carolina Herrera. This season provides a strong balance between past seasons’ menswear-inspired cuts and details and the floaty femininity of Spring 2007. While not a particularly directional collection, Herrera ’s spring line does impress with a number of attractive, wearable pieces, including a ruched jersey blouse and a black and ivory linen dress with oversized collar (pictured).
Color Palette: Have we seen some of these same dusty colors of greys, creams, pinks, reds and blacks in other spring lines? Yes, but with less contrast than seen in other collections.
Silhouettes: Herrera emphasized work-friendly shirts with pencil skirts and flutter-sleeved full-length outfits. Dresses emphasized a natural waistline. Oversized collars and off-the-shoulder sleeves gave classic shapes a bit of a twist. Detailing included embroidery, eyelet, and piping.
Accessories Report: Round Jackie-O meets swim goggle sunglasses in vibrant pinks and strange greys and blacks hid the eyes of the models toting the more work-appropriate outfits. We also spotted thin and thick belts, the odd bracelet, and T-strap sandals in various colors.
What’s Wearable: We have to agree that Carolina Herrera’s signature elegantly flirty full-length dresses are always wearable at the elegant cocktail party in someone’s ritzy loft or a night out at the Met.
What’s Not Wearable: Avoid the sunglasses, which make you look like you just exited out of a Mystic Tan booth and the unflattering horizontal striped palazzo pants.
Key Takeaways: A visit to Tocca’s showroom in Chelsea feels almost like a tropical vacation with the very feminine and cotton-heavy collection inspired by the colorful island hues of the Cyclades, a part of the lovely Greek Islands. Bold graphic prints dominated Tocca’s Spring/Summer collection, along with detailing ranging from eyelet to ruching to embroidery. The dress-dominated collection was made for comfort and embodied a definite casual chic.
Color Palette: Tocca’s line of prints spans the rainbow of colors with a heavy emphasis on brights.
Silhouettes: Dresses and skirts are constructed in classic shapes: fitted blouses with peplums, empire-waisted dresses, wrap dresses, shirt dresses, and bandeau-top dresses.
Accessories Report: We’re crushing on an oversized canvas satchel with a coconut disc bead handle, brass hardware and bamboo support structure. We absolutely adored the bold geometric prints on the satchels, lending them a casually trendy air.
What’s Wearable: Carry around the canvas satchels that are already popular in Tocca’s flagship store in Tokyo, and your groceries will never have felt so fashionable! The Mona Dress ($150) had a gorgeous striped print with contrast fabric on the bottom of the dress and a flattering empire waist. We also checked out the Michelle Dress ($120), whose geometric patchwork of navy and white–with a lime green neckline–embodied a mod 60s feel.
What’s Not Wearable: The Tressa skirt, a short navy and white frilly-cut skirt tragically reminded us of Paris Hilton during the summer. While we didn’t appreciate the frilly skirt silhouette (didn’t we let this one go in 2004?), the print was still lovely.
Key Takeaways: BCBG or "Bon Chic, Bon Genre" (Good Style, Good Attitude) started off fashion week with a wonderfully comfy chic collection that showcased trademark femininity and romantic detailing. Max Azaria’s novel use of elements such as laser cut-outs allow dresses to be futuristic, while sash tie-waists, puff sleeves and the occasional peacock detailing bring them back toward delicate modern sensibilities.
Color Palette: Pale Easter egg-dipped colors such as blues, yellows, pinks and purples dominate this utterly female collection.
Silhouettes: The 60s mod-ballerina has finally arrived. Dance and party in trapeze dresses and baby dolls with fitted waists that both feature gently ruffled skirt hems. Conquistador shorts and skirts reach just above the knee for easy movement.
Accessories Report: Flat and discreet t-strap sandals in neutral colors complement the understated collection, and a lone medium brown satchel is toted down the runway.
What’s Wearable: Flutter sleeves are flattering on almost any arm shape and type.
What’s Not Wearable:
Avoid the high tie-sash waist with gathering unless you’re waiting for a bundle of joy within the next several months.
Key Takeaways: Finally…Spring! With beautiful prints (Omiru hearts Marimekko), Oscar de la Renta’s collection truly embodies the season its being designed for. As with so many other collections, volume was a key trend. In keeping with the bubble silhouette of the season, Oscar directed the volume to move down south to skirts and bottoms of dresses.
Color Palette: White, red, blue (bright and light), yellow, fuchsia, and brown.
Silhouettes: Most of the skirts were voluminous, a throwback to the heyday of 1950s couture. Skirt volume alternated between over-the-top and kept at a minimum, as Oscar showed both fitted styles and bubble silhouettes. Silhouettes of note included cap-sleeve dresses, bubble skirts, trapeze jackets, an 80’s inspired prom-style sweetheart dress with a poof skirt, a bandeau bikini, a Jackie-O-style boatneck dress, the classic shift dress, and a slightly oversized unstructured skirt suit set.
Accessories Report: Square black glasses, white-rimmed glasses, a briefcase-style satchel handbag, many clear bags, and of course, the classic black patent leather belt at the waist.
What’s Wearable: Most of the dresses are wearable, especially the ones will clean details. An evening gown that will translate wonderfully for a formal event is the midnight blue silk sleeveless long dress with a simple scoop neck. Bravo Oscar!
What’s Not Wearable: The intense bubble skirts are too dramatic for a non-celebrity, and we fear that they might make a gal look like she takes herself too seriously.
Key Takeaways: Bear with us because Marc Jacobs’ Spring collection is chock full of directional elements, the first being a flashback to the flapper era. As seen above in the photo, Jacobs modernized the traditional flapper girl by layering articles such as bubble pants and lace camis. Once again, volume took center stage, especially when it came to the trousers. Metallics also made a comeback, though not in full force (but look out for Jacobs’ Louis Vuitton Mirror Collection in December; it has lots of metallic handbags!). In true Marc Jacobs’ spirit, the collection also featured lots of layering, providing inspiration to stylists and fashionistas everywhere.
Color Palette: Neutral colors (white, khaki, and goregeous greys) dominated, but we spotted purple, orange, peachy-pink, and yellow.
Silhouettes: Baggy men’s trousers (both long and capris), loose men’s-style button-down shirts, tiered mini dresses, bubble dresses with triangle arms and bow details at one shoulder, short sleeved cardigans, and lots of layering.
Accessories Report: Jacobs is all about the head gear. Seems Jacobs’ is not only trying to bring back the flapper style (via a headband with a flower at one side), but he is also trying to replace the big bugged-eyed glasses with square futuristic ones. Metallic handbags (messenger and satchel style) were also spotted, along with caps that look like they’re from Paris 2015.
What’s Wearable: Some pieces can be worn on the streets if they are toned down. Like in so many of the other collections this season, we find exquisitely wearable pieces in Jacobs’ show–but not full outfits. Especially wearable is the outerwear–swing coats, pea-coats, and cardigans.
What’s Not Wearable: We appreciate the over-the-top directionality of this
collection–had it been tamer, it would not have carried the intended
effect. However, tone it down for the streets. All of the cocktail dresses have too much going on for a simple gal. The baggy trousers threaten to make women look like their boyfriends, and the metallic outerwear is quite space-y. Though bubble silhouettes are back in full force for Spring 07, we reiterate our PSA: Wear with caution. We appreciate the novelty of the shape, but the smaller the pouf, the more flattering it will be.
Key Takeaways: Kai Kühne describes his collection in one word as "sharp". We’ll agree that the wide bottoms with cuffs, sash ties and flowy shirts do call us to attention with a nautical-inspired collection.
Color Palette: We imagine a stylish SoHo (NY) / Potrero Hill (CA) flat filled with all of these colors: neutrals in pure white, charcoal grey, brown and beige, with hints of a light army green, silvers and a delightfully sheeny black.
Silhouettes: Draping creates figures and lines that manage to appear both loose and fitted along various lengths (natural waist and hips), while structure influences the sharp lapels and finishing touches.
Accessories Report: See last winter’s trend: necklaces with large knit ball-shapes. We also saw silver chain necklaces and Christina Aguilera-esque open (and closed) peep-toe shoes.
What’s Wearable: Even though it is after Labor Day, the fitted white pants are very wearable option (pair with leather peep-toe shoes for a vamp look).
What’s Not Wearable:
Avoid any detailing that is gathered at the rear, especially if you are particularly blessed in that area. Also, gauchos. Enough said.
