Archive for September 21st, 2006
Key Takeaways: Layered silhouettes and loose oversized shapes dominated Derek Lam’s collection of sportswear. Lam toyed with a masculine/feminine theme that took his collection from sweet to sultry.
Color Palette: Neutrals like grey, black, white, and navy are spiced up with coral, turquoise, olive, celadon, and yellow.
Silhouettes: Key silhouettes included on-trend voluminous and kimono sleeves, swing coats, shorts, cropped pants, and ruffled styles. Lam also featured architecturally constructed tanks, collarless coats, dresses with pockets, and billowy gowns.
Accessories Report: Top-handle oversized bags, belts reminiscent of laptop locks, small and square sunglasses, and shoes with thick straps graced Lam’s runway.
What’s Wearable: We’d recomend Lam’s empire-waisted tulip dress with thick straps (pictured) and a breezy asymmetric chiffon dress–a real stunner.
What’s Not Wearable: Big over big layering–leave that for the models on the runway and the stylists who dress them.
September 21st, 2006
Key Takeaways: With themes ranging from 20s glamour and the mod 60s, the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection felt like a microcosm of Fashion Week. Just as the Spring 2007 season is all about pieces–not outfits, the Marc by Marc collection is all about specific looks, not a focused message.
Color Palette: All over the map. Neutrals–olives, whites, and greys–were accompanied by celadon green, grass green, orange, turquoise, yellow, and purple.
Silhouettes: Key silhouettes included mod 60s shifts, drop waist styles, trapeze style coats, cuffed shorts, voluminous sleeves, and oversized tops over dresses. For men, loose pants, shorts, cuffed styles, deep v-neckline styles, three piece suits, and trenchcoats.
Accessories Report: Oversized top-handle bags, caps, long, thin scarves, white-rimmed glasses, long necklaces, and sneakers for women. For men, caps, suspenders, nerd glasses, and sneakers.
What’s Wearable: An indigo-navy drop waist shift with a curved waistline ruffle (pictured). For men, we love the three piece suit with sneakers.
What’s Not Wearable: For women, a patchwork hippie print dress that confuses the eye with its multitude of patterns. For men, a white deep-v shirt that would feel right at home in the women’s collection.
September 21st, 2006
Key Takeaways: Peter Som followed key trends for Spring 2007: neutral colors, tops with wide straps, voluminous sleeves, trapeze silhouettes, and shorts. Playing with sheers and solids, Som experimented with volume and loosely fitted looks with oversized sleeves, layers, and fabric gathers.
Color Palette: Muted colors: greys, pale yellow, beige, navy, and white.
Silhouettes: Jackets were cut a little loose and included collarless, trapeze-shaped, and double breasted styles. Voluminous sleeves balanced out shorts and cigarette pants. Tulip skirts and trapeze styles provided extra volume. Dresses included babydoll styles, strapless styles, and floor length billowy gowns.
Accessories Report: Thick strappy shoes adorned the feet of the models.
What’s Wearable: Our favorite look came during the parade of evening gowns: a billowy peach stunner with a black tie at waist (pictured). Som’s babydoll dresses are flattering on most figures, and the emphasis on a higher waistline is good news for longwaisted girls.
What’s Not Wearable: Tulip skirts are tricky to wear, as are the conical voluminous sleeves.
September 21st, 2006
Key Takeaways: Structured, chic, slick, monochrome or bright? We’re having a hard time putting one word to Jay McCarroll’s (of Project Runway Season 1 fame) debut solo show after winning back in 2005. (By the way, check out the adorable different colored headphones from his ‘05 collection.) Having met Mr. McCarroll backstage for an interview, we can see why it’d be hard for him to stick with the neutrals and strict shapes that many of the other designers preferred for this season. We loved that his show spanned the spectrum of literal black to white to yellow to blue to green to a mix, but the varied shapes made it occasionally hard to draw a cohesive sense from the line. Nevertheless, the rooster and helium blimp-prints in varying sizes along with the patchwork feel set this collection aside from others.
On a side-note, no fur was used in this line. Jay paired up with the Humane Society of the United States to reinforce the fact that fur does not need to be obtained from cruel sources. We applaud you, Jay McCarroll! You can see us wearing the red and white heart-shaped "no FUR" button during his interview. As a gift for our loyal Omiru readers, we’re giving
away five of these exclusively-designed buttons for the first five commenters on this post — just leave your name and email!
Color Palette: We saw solids in plain black and white along with blends of canary yellow, yellow-green, blues and turquoise and browns separately and sometimes all at once (see image above).
Silhouettes: Mirroring his balloon prints, lean and volume-infused silouettes dominated Jay McCarroll’s collection. A bright turquoise tank dress with side detail and an A-line see-through raincoat paraded after a gothic stiff crinoline "Little-Bo-Peep-Meets-Black-Sheep" dress complete with hooded shrug and sheer lace footless tights. Loose, long coats for men came in silver and charcoal black for a true rockstar feel. We took note of cuffed short-shorts, long flowy patchwork dresses, and minis and skinny pants in a variety of colors.
Accessories Report: Watch out! Sunglasses in white, black and smoke and blue (pictured) are here for Spring 2007. We loved the adorable etched flat plastic globes made into necklaces and other accessories and the singularly outrageous bird in a cage looped casually around a model’s neck. Male flipflops and flats and wide-strapped heels for women adorned feet in whites and blacks. Bowling and duffle bags in various colors were also paraded down the runways.
What’s Wearable: The short-sleeve patchwork dress in the mock-turtleneck with the complementary squares of color is just too gosh darn cute to pass up. Also, the striped off the shoulder sweater works well for Winter ‘06 along with the calf-length tights in heather grey with three buttons on the side of each leg.
What’s Not Wearable: Highly structured and puffed shoulders along with a bee-like black and yellow striped sweater are more theatrical then off-the-runway wearable.
Hear what Jay McCarroll has to say about the Humane Society in our exclusive backstage interview.
September 21st, 2006
Omiru: Style for All (www.omiru.com) conducts an interview with Jay McCarroll (of Project Runway Season 1 Fame) backstage at the Jay McCarroll Spring 2007 show at New York Fashion Week.
September 21st, 2006
Key Takeaways: An overly complex collection that contrasts with designer Francisco Costa’s last effortlessly ethereal collection. Floaty, gauzy layers are overworked and sewn into voluminous shapes, from bubble styles to harem pants.
Color Palette: Cream, beige, and yellow are accompanied by metallics.
Silhouettes: Key silhouettes included bubble shapes, fitted sheaths, 3/4 sleeve oversized coats, harem pants, and parkas. Detailing included oversized collars, off-the-shoulder sleeves, U-shaped necklines, and pockets on skirts and dresses.
Accessories Report: Of note were the oversized unstructured bags and ankle boots.
What’s Wearable: Despite the tricky bubble silhouette, we love the poufy ethereal dress with multiple layers.
What’s Not Wearable: See through garments are generally best left layered or on the runway. Many of the styles read as too complex, with overly worked fabric.
September 21st, 2006
Key Takeaways: Layering, narrow silhouettes, and fabrics with sheen were the three hallmarks of the Calvin Klein Men Spring 2007 collection.
Color Palette: Greys and tan were jolted with shades of blue and orange.
Silhouettes: Models strutted down the runway in layered tops–v-neck sweaters over crewnecks over button-down shirts, two-button fitted suits, 3/4 length coats, double breasted styles, blousy tops, shorts, and leggings.
Accessories Report: Models carried tote bags down the runway.
What’s Wearable: Love the uber-thin lapels, the fitted two-button suits with a low stance, and the skinny trousers.
What’s Not Wearable: Leggings–especially in electric blue.
September 21st, 2006
The design inspiration for this bracelet came from designer Ari Kuperman’s garden, which in the spring is full of gorgeous red poppies.
Fun fact about Ari? When she was younger, she and a few friends covered themselves with mud at the Dead Sea. But don’t try this at home–after the mud dries, it stings like crazy!
$149 at Made It.
September 21st, 2006
Key Takeaways: Narciso Rodriguez’s tricky architectural constructions appear somewhat forced–definitely not as natural and fluid as they have appeared in previous years. The collection feels studied, and even a bit stiff as Rodriguez alternates between fitted and slightly looser shapes. Surface details–pattern and metallic sheen–are key for visual interest.
Color Palette: White, black, and grey are joined by rose, blue, purple and orange.
Silhouettes: Key silhouettes for women included high waistlines, empire styles, capelets, babydoll dresses, miniskirts, and trenches. Detailing included flutter sleeves, cutouts, and thick straps. For men, we noted loosely fitted single-button blazers, skinny pants, sleeveless jackets, and shorts.
Accessories Report: Belts played a central role in the collection, with Rodriguez showing what appears to be a corset of belts. We also took note of a thick belt with thin ties at the front.
What’s Wearable: The collection is generally wearable, given the right occasion. The styles feel intellectual–perfect for gallery openings and evenings at the symphony. For women, we’re crushing on a draped dark turquoise dress with think chain strap and white contrast cutout at front. For men, we’re fans of the loosely fitted single-button blazers.
What’s Not Wearable: Some outfits have too much going on with the combination of fabric/color blocking, pattern, and shape. However, we could see many of his individual pieces as perfectly wearable. Rodriguez’s expertise is creating clean lines and unfussy shapes–this collection didn’t play to his strengths.
September 21st, 2006
