Archive for February, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: The look was very Bobo (think Mary-Kate and Stavros in the Village).
Color Palette: As if straight out of a Rothko painting, the color scheme was limited to blue, grey and black.
Silhouettes: Models strutted down the runway in layer upon layer of oversized clothing.
Accessories Report: Ultralong scarves (and necklaces for women), newsboy hats, logo duffels, knit ski hats for men, pins on lapels, suspenders, fanny packs.
What’s Wearable: For women, a capelet with oversized buttons; an oversized wool grey coat; slouchy leather bags. For men, fitted blazers with pin adornments on the lapel.
What’s Not Wearable: Colorless colonial-style dresses for women; for men, sleeves hooked to the thumbs.
February 10th, 2006
The phrase "fashionably late" must have had its beginnings somewhere during Olympus Fashion Week. Of the more than 10 shows I attended during the week, ranging from small shows like Abaete to larger shows like Kenneth Cole, BCBG and Baby Phat, not one of them started on time. In fact, most of them started about 45 minutes late, and the shows lasted about 10-12 minutes long.
During fashion week, shows "start" on the hour and take place in one of three places in the Bryant Park tents: the Atelier (for smaller shows), the Promenade (for slightly larger shows) and the Tent (for big behemoth shows, like Lacoste and Zac Posen). Some designers have shows off-site in smaller showrooms in New York, generally in trendy areas like Soho or Chelsea. Shows begin, at earliest, at 9 am, and end, at latest, at 10 pm.
Junior public relations representatives start checking guests in about 25 minutes before the show starts. If you’re lucky, the PR company has already called you and told you your seating assignment via telephone before the show takes place. This generally only happens if you’re Anna Wintour or some A or B-list celebrity, however. Most of the time, you can expect to spend anywhere from 10 minutes to half an hour waiting in a herd of people to check in for the show.
Hopefully, you’re important enough to rank a seating assignment. Public relations companies in charge of shows seat guests in order or importance at the show. Generally the hierarchy goes something like this: A-list and B-list celebrities, front row, scattered among various prominent fashion editors from the U.S. and international offices of Harper’s Bazaar, Lucky and Vogue (although Anna and Andre Leon only show up to a couple big shows during the week); buyers from high-end department stores rank just behind them, followed by makeup, hair and other show sponsors. Everyone else (ranging from friends to virtually unknown journalists such as myself) sometimes get to fill in the rest of the seats. More than likely though, the regular folks end up in standing room.
Those with seating assignments can sit down almost as soon as they are checked in, generally about 10 or 15 minutes after the hour. Standing room guests get lumped into a massive line and are let in about 20 to 25 past the hour. If there are any seats left at that time, standing room guests can fill them in (this is more likely during the afternoon shows). Otherwise, they are shoved to the back of the tent, to try to fight other guests for a decent view of the runway. During the show, anywhere from 27 looks to about 35 looks are shown.
The show usually begins around 45 past the hour and will last anywhere from 10 minutes to 20 minutes. (The shortest show I went to was Baby Phat, coming in at 10 minutes flat, while the longest was Heatherette, which came in around 20 minutes).
In essence, you spend longer standing in line and waiting for the show, than you actually do watching it!
February 10th, 2006
Introducing Kelly, our New York Fashion Week correspondent!
Kelly is a 20-something journalist living in the Chelsea district of Manhattan. When she’s not on the hunt for the best and most affordable fashion finds (in other words, shopping!), she enjoys reading New York magazine, listening to indie rock and working out at the gym.
Check back for Kelly’s view of Fashion Week, straight from the tents!
Name: Kelly
Astrological sign: Virgo
Can’t live without: Billy’s Bakery cupcakes, fashion magazines (InStyle, Vogue, New York Magazine), a good book (I love books about Irish history, social justice and anything by David Sedaris and Chuck Klosterman) and my computer and email!
On a Saturday you’ll find me: doing laundry, working out, cleaning or wandering around New York City.
Retail Haunts: Anthropologie, H&M, Zara, Ann Taylor Loft, Banana Republic, Nordstrom’s and occasionally Forever 21 and Target.
My foolproof outfit: Bootcut Sevens with a fun back pocket design, any of my fun-colored 2 inch-plus stilettos (yes I’m short!) paired with a soft, pinstriped button down shirt, light blue cashmere cardigan and some funky earrings, a oversized hobo, and a Mary Poppins bag. (I love accessories!)
Irrational fear: I don’t really have one irrational fear, but I am a compulsive worrier.
February 10th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Excellently edited collection from a true up-and-comer. Key trends: (1) capes, (2) raised waist emphasis, (3) belted styles, (4) tuxedo detailing (5) ruffles, (6) voluminous sleeves, (7) grecian draping, (8) tulip skirt styles.
Color Palette: Neutrals with splashes of spring green, sunflower yellow, sky blue, and a rich, warm purple.
Silhouettes: Silhouettes tended to be more fitted on top and loose on the bottom–or vice versa. Lam showed a host of tailored tops and voluminous skirts–both tulip skirt shapes and the run-of-the-mill full skirt. He also presented a number of oversized jackets/capes over slim, tailored silhouettes to balance them out.
Accessories Report: Chain necklaces and chain bag handles. Belts were rather thick and sat at the natural waistline.
What’s Wearable: Lam accomplished the formidable feat of designing an interesting, wearable collection–we were hard pressed to find extremely unwearable looks. Our favorites? A long babydoll shirt paired with a suit jacket, pants, and short gloves…and fur (skip the fur, make Trisha happy)–shown above. We also appreciated the black asymmetric capelet paired with a bright yellow ruffled shirt, long gloves, and skinny pants.
What’s Not Wearable: One blousy white halter dress wasn’t particularly flattering, even on the model’s thin frame. The stark contrast of the thick black belt didn’t do her any favors either.
February 10th, 2006
Key Takeaways: Inventive Swiss-inspired collection with looks ranging from a sporty equestrian to extras in the Sound of Music to a 1920s-meets-preppy-schoolgirl outfit. Key trends included: (1) Toggle coats for men and women, (2) short sleeved looks, (3) double breasted coats, (4) stripes and solids for men, (5) raised waistlines, (6) vests, (7) giant cuff bracelets, and (8) fair isle sweaters. What did we appreciate the most about Trovata? Even in the simplest of outfits (a v-neck sweater over a button down shirt and slacks), we saw clear attention to detail: the shirt sleeves peeked out from under the sweater a perfect amount–about 3/4 inch–just as they should when a man is wearing a suit blazer.
Color Palette: Neutrals with shots of mustard yellow, olive, burnt orange, purple, sky blue, and bright royal blue.
Silhouettes: Silhouettes were generally slim, but some looks paired a fitted top over a more generously proportioned bottom. For women, we saw short sleeved dresses, fresh looking sailor looks–including a great pair of sailor pants with purposefully mismatched buttons, fair isle sweaters, short sleeved looks, boatneck styles, asymmetry, loose flowy skirts on dresses, cropped pants, striped tights, and sweatervests. For men, we saw striped looks under jackets, plenty of plaid, suspenders, fair isle sweaters, peacoats, and of course, toggle coats.
Accessories Report: For women, giant charms on necklaces, giant cuff bracelets, scarves wrapped around the head Grace Kelly style, hoodie-like hats, knit caps with bills, furry hats, and tights (but of course). For men, we saw untied bow ties, suspenders, and beanies.
What’s Wearable: Most of the collection was wearable, but we especially loved the toggle coats and sweaters for both men and women. We also appreciated Trovata’s take on the nautical theme: a cropped blazer + a button down striped shirt with yoke + sailor pants with multicolored buttons.
What’s Not Wearable: I would skip on the Sound of Music ensembles, but they were just for show anyways.
February 10th, 2006
Key Takeaways: A rather somber collection of generally slim, tailored silhouette. We noticed Lazaro and Jack’s love of the dart, though at times, the collection reminded us of Patterndrafting I’s dart manipulation exercise. Key trends included (1) waist emphasis on a higher waistline, (2) oversized collars, (3) dresses over long sleeved shirts, (4) 3/4 sleeve jackets, (5) vests, (6) grecian style draping, (7) fur trim, (8) tights, (9) voluminous sleeves, and (10) asymmetry.
Color Palette: Dark. If you squinted at the runway, all you would see are shades of black, grey, and brown. We also spotted a purple dress in the mix.
Silhouettes: Emphasis was placed once again on the waistline (which sat a bit higher than it did last season). Most silhouettes were slim, though we did see a host of oversized coats, creating a "big over small" silhouette. Classifications included long sleeved dresses, 3/4 sleeve jackets, pencil skirts, belted styles, oversized cape-like jackets, motorcycle jackets, and vests.
Accessories Report: Oversized belts, dark tights, smaller square sunglasses, and short gloves (a welcome break from everyone and their mother showing Long gloves).
What’s Wearable: Our favorite look of this collection? A cropped 3/4 sleeve blazer over a grey knit shirt (shown above), paired with a fancy embellished skirt and tights.
What’s Not Wearable: Just say "no" to leather pants. You’ll thank us when you’re older. The oversized collarless jackets are also unflattering to the figure–even to that of a model.
February 10th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: It seems Michael Kors is also smitten with the color black so we suppose it’s staying put for a while. But thankfully Mr. Kors hasn’t overlooked important details like fur, thick belts, knit scarves, bows,and more. Both the men’s and women’s lines have an overall serious tone, but some Abercrombie & Fitch-like preppy stripes lighten the mood.
Color Palette: Black is back, but grey, white, beige, yellow, blue, maroon, and olive green make it in to the mix.
Silhouettes: Tight trousers, blazers, vests, cardigans, trench coats, nad turtlenecks for the men. For the women, airy dresses, slim turtlenecks, large coats, skinny cropped trousers, A-line skirts, knit dresses, and fur shrugs.
Accessories Report: The men sported yellow-tinted shades, skinny one-color ties, scarves, and black leather belts with a silver circular hardware. The ladies carried chain-link leather handbags, knit caps, long knit scarves, opaque tights, long boots, thick belts, and thigh-highs.
What’s Wearable: The ladies can definitely rock the evening dresses, skinny trousers, fur coats, and A-line skirts. The men will look smashing and slick in the slimming suits and blazers.
What’s Not Wearable: I don’t know how enthusiastic men will be to sport the feminine-looking leather belt with the circle hardware. And some of the plaid long skirts make the gals look like they just stepped out of finishing school.
February 10th, 2006
Key Takeaways: Sarafpour’s collection in one word: ladylike. Key trends included: (1) short sleeved styles, (2) tuxedo detailing, (3) oversized collars, (4) sweaterdresses, (5) plaid, (6) vests, (7) voluminous sleeves, and (8) fur.
Color Palette: True neutrals: shades of black, white, and grey.
Silhouettes: Sarafpour showed both all-over slim silhouettes along with full-over-slim and slim-over-full looks. Dresses ranged from shapeless to slim to ballet-tutu style full. Classifications included short sleeved styles, voluminous skirts, long sleeved dresses, sweaterdresses, vests, and ballet-style poufy dresses.
Accessories Report: Belts, an odd looking fur hat, and a giant safety pin on a skirt.
What’s Wearable: Our favorites include a long grey sleeved knit dress and a layered lace top with knee-length skirt.
What’s Not Wearable: We’re nixing the cow-styled fur coats.
February 10th, 2006
Key Takeaways: If there were inhabitants on the moon, Yohji Yamamoto’s fall collection would be a perfect fit. From the street b-boy to the woman-on-the-go, this is the perfect metro garb for those who like to look stylishly sporty, but don’t want to actually get physical.
Color Palette: A gravel surface of grays, blacks and browns are shot with a temporary dose of primary colors red and blue. Colors may be sparse, but with the manipulated panache he adds, the basic shades become full of character.
Silhouettes: For the men – baggy, yet fittingly masculine. For the women – clean shapes and appropriate necklines that have an emphasis on urban modesty, but still maintain a playful sexiness.
Accessories Report: Hats of all shapes and sizes: beanies (with and without pompoms), ivy caps, paper boy caps, fedoras – they’re all there. In addition, sporty knit scarves from the small to the gigantic drape well on both men and women. As always, bags (for both men and women) complement the clothes and warm, knit gloves (with and without fingertips) exude street-smart charm. There was also a recurring appearance of this clunky plastic bead jewelry that was surprisingly very chic—not cheap and toy-like.
What’s Wearable: Every single piece (layered or not) in this “urban moonwalker†collection is undeniably wearable. It’s obvious that Yamamoto designs boil over with urban flair. His pieces of outerwear like his trenches, blazers and even his shedding mohair woman’s poncho, seem very fashionable and functional. Their greatest attribute to his zip-ups is their two-way capabilities – very fashion-savvy, yet refined. To go with his Adidas blood, he gives a nice set of tracksuits, which are great for any person. For women, the trend of sweaterdresses continues. Even though the pieces are fairly basic, they exude an extravagant texture – very thoughtful and effortless.
What’s Not Wearable: The sequin appliqué is tolerable, but the scalloped feather look was didn’t hit the mark. Other than that, Yamamoto proves that you can never go wrong with simplicity.
February 10th, 2006
Key Takeaways: Once again, the powerful working woman makes an appearance on the runway – but this time, it is a little less fashion-forward and a lot more fashion-function. Chai utilizes his minimalist eye and steps it up one level to deliver a sleek, self-assured collection.
Color Palette: There is a wonderful balance of light colors (creams and beiges), neutral shades (blacks and browns) and the occasional deep color (reds.) Some of the colors stand out even more on some of their basic, yet stylish, prints.
Silhouettes: Plunging necklines compete fairly with modishly exaggerated collars. The high necks are wonderfully appealing, while the wraparound smocks adhere to give an angelic form. Trousers strut confidently on hips, while Chai’s coats are remarkably constructed to accentuate girl power.
Accessories Report: Elbow-length gloves add a bit of class to many of the garments, but ornamental pieces of fashion were quite bare in the collection.
What’s Wearable: Plain and simple – Chai’s outwear is chic and to the point. The coats in various lengths are modestly flirty, but they still exude classiness. More than that, the knit sweater jackets with offset buttons are something to keep your eye out for. All in all, Chai makes wonderful pieces (from everyday work wear to evening garb) that work on the runway and on everyday bodies.
What’s Not Wearable: Although he does make outfits that work, some of his dresses look like “Designing Women†negligees – one of them even bears resemblance to maternity wear. Also, the unfinished hems on some of the skirts didn’t work well with some of his more polished looks – and what’s with the overuse of the black stockings?
February 10th, 2006
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