Archive for February, 2006
Key Takeaways: With a strikingly provocative collection that looks like it tells a story about a "gothinatrix†society girl living in 2099, the avant-garde Brazilian designer pushes the envelope with pieces that exude menacing femininity.
Color Palette: Pale pinks, greens and peaches are deflected off of glossy blacks and grays.
Silhouettes: Despite the stylishly girly morbid feel of the pieces, there is flattering focus on femininity. Cinched waists give a wasp-like appearance to the female form. In contrast, Herchcovitch shows whimsical pod-like dresses and skirts with interesting cuts that do not seem to praise the body.
Accessories Report: Thick belts with buckles adorned with skulls contribute to the Goth appearance of the collection, while head wraps provide a futuristic feel of ethnicity. The usage of buttons on the pants and jackets (whether functional or not) is a nice touch.
What’s Wearable: The combining of the feminine floral with the textural modernity of the darks is a very bold gesture, but it works. Overall the color palette is very Spring-like but the warmness from makes them suitable for fall (the greens confidently stand out.) The sci-fi couture coats, although a bit conceptual, are unbelievably exquisite. The skirts and dresses with different cuts are tailored beautifully and the sailor-style are something to keep your eye out for this season.
What’s Not Wearable: The buddy band head wrap looks as if it were purchased from a B-list celebrity of off an infomercial. Although it pulls some of the outfits together, it gives the pieces a stoic look that makes them look uncomfortable and constrictive. In addition, the floral long coat was like a kaleidoscopic seizure, making it really hard on the eyes.
February 7th, 2006
Key Takeaways: Bryan Bradley and Josh Patner fuse modern style with nuances from the 40’s and 50’s to give this collection of pin-up secretaries the energy of the a powerful female CEO.
Color Palette: Heavy use of blacks, grays, whites and browns, with uninvited guest appearances from red, yellow and a leopard print.
Silhouettes: In keeping in the spirit of retro professional glamour, every single coat, dress, pair of slim cut slacks and pencil skirt hug the female form, displaying an extravagant hourglass figure. The blouses range from the sheer to the flirty conservative with dolman sleeves, Japanese inspired cuts and feminine puff – all of them fit nicely and complement the other portions of the garment. For some pieces, the choice of broadly printed silk flows with ease, kissing the female in all the right places. Each piece is consistent and has clean lines that are basic, yet each piece is yearning to be worn.
Accessories Report: Boxy duffel bags and floral print luggage gave the collection the feel of a “woman on the go.†Big bows emerging from the garments and makeshift fabric flowers pinned to blouses make the pieces look like one cohesive garment, rather than pieced together. Capes and shrugs are also included in the collection, proving the popular pieces of fashion add-ons are not totally out of style yet.
What’s Wearable: Believe it or not, the fur is very appealing (sorry PETA.) The way they are modified and worn is fabulous. Same goes for the waist coats with huge buttons – wonderfully constructed and very versatile, perfect for women of any size. Their minimalist style takes a small break with their eveningwear – not too complicated and not too plain – they are just right (and luxuriously chic.)
What’s Not Wearable: Besides being a more stylish version of Banana Republic, (don’t be surprised if they steal some of these styles) the monochrome tones are interrupted by a DB Tabard style coat Jackie-O dress in red. The dress itself looks more like a service uniform, but the fact that it is tangential to the color statement of the rest of the collection makes it such that it doesn’t fit in. Same goes for the loudly patterned yellow jacket. Having color included in a neutral collection is a good idea, but it would have been better to have it subtly introduced rather than splashed onto the scene.
Correction: We were informed by Mr. Bryan Bradley himself that Josh Patner is no longer with Tuleh. Furthermore, the "Jackie-O dress" is actually a DB Tabard style coat. Thanks for the corrections, Mr. Bradley…we really do appreciate!
February 6th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: This collection has feminine romantic sewn all over it. Slim belts are adorned with a girly bow (very Spring 2006), and even the black pieces ooze delicateness. Although some dresses reveal the décolleté, most are long-sleeved and high-necked, reinforcing the image of a modest yet stylish gal. Looks like Victorian-style pieces are sticking around through Fall.
Color Palette: Lilac, navy blue, black, gold, off-white, and silver.
Silhouettes: Nothing is loose enough to be messy, but the garments are tight enough to be provocative. High-waist trousers are taut; sheer chiffon blouses have puffy shoulders; fancy and sparkly dresses remain demure.
Accessories Report: Nothing too extravagant. We saw a high waisted belt with round and square hardware and a thin belt with bow hardware (talk about mixing hard and soft!). The minimal use of accessories is the perfect way to let the clothes do the flirting.
What’s Wearable: There’s nothing too avant-garde in this collection, so with a bit of tweaking, every piece can be worn. We do have a word of warning for you: Only sport these garments if you’re going for the Innocent Girl look.
February 6th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: It’s all about the patterns for Diane Von Furstenberg. She takes preppy plaids and polka dots to a cool new level. Herringbone, chain-link, and lip outline patterns all make their way onto high waist skirts, wrap dresses (her signature), shirtdresses, and more.
Color Palette: Black, white, red, green, khaki, grey, and fuchsia.
Silhouettes: Lots and lots of wrap dresses (but of course), shirtdresses, baggy man trousers, vest suits, high waisted tight skirts, and loose-fitting dresses.
Accessories Report: Slouchy gloves in green, black, and fuchsia; thick headbands in many patterns and colors (sitting toward back of head); chunky chain-link bracelets and a charm bracelet (even though we thought those were So done).
What’s Wearable: Every piece is wearable but shouldn’t be paired with clashing patterns. The brown and black polka dot blazer is adorable, but it looks mismatched with the black and red plaid button-down shirt. Eek.
February 6th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: No one can mess with this season’s DKNY followers, because even if they’re not tough, their clothes sure are. Black, a longtime staple for the rough and tough, is a common theme here, as is a solemn face. Whether in skirts or pants, men or women, you better think twice before approaching these models because they look more than sharp.
Color Palette: BLACK, with an occasional maroon, hot yellow, teal, white, gray, brown, and green.
Silhouettes: Contrary to what we’re used to, this time baggy is reserved for the women and it’s rockstar tight for the men. Don’t worry, Donna Karan hasn’t pulled a fast one on us and put the women in men’s clothing. The men rocked their traditional trousers a tad tighter and slipped a vest underneath their coats, while the ladies layered and let loose.
Accessories Report: Hats and black opaque tights for the women, skinny ties for the men, and skinny black scarfs-as-necklaces for both sexes.
What’s Wearable: Almost everything is wearable if one doesn’t mind having unstylish people have an occasional laugh at their expense. But the layering will probably have to be toned down a bit for the real streets.
What’s Not Wearable: The only piece that would conjure up some major laughs is a high-waist flannel skirt that folds at the bottom, especially when it’s paired with the matching hat.
February 6th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: True to their roots, Badgley Mischka stuck to glamorous eveningwear. Though there was some shine, the usual Badgley Mischka glitz was kept to a minimum. In its place were floral prints, pleats, feminine lace, velvet, and fringe.
Color Palette: Royal blue, brown, purple, black, off-white, navy blue, teal, bright yellow, maroon, and red. Basically, we saw almost all the colors of the rainbow!
Silhouettes: The collection was almost evenly split between long, lean gowns and short, voluminous dresses and skirts. The occasional lean pant and knee-length short was also thrown into the mix for those who like to dress up, but not in a dress.
Accessories Report: Some small and square sunglasses made their debut on the runway, along with cross chokers and other dangly necklaces. Evening clutches were also seen on some hands but almost dimmed near the intricate dresses. We also saw the long (mid arm) leather glove at Badgley Mischka—this is certainly one of the big accessories trends for the season.
What’s Wearable: Almost all of the dresses, trousers, and coats are wearable. Keep in mind that each piece has immense presence, so sporting these looks in bright daylight will likely not fly (unless you have the personality to match!).
What’s Not Wearable: Two dresses are better left on the runway. A red one can pass as a fancy garbage bag, while the royal blue piece looks like a costume from a regal production.
February 6th, 2006
Key Takeaways: The key stories for women were (1) shorts over leggings, (2) tie-neck styles, and (3) blousy sleeves. For men, the key stories were (1) vests, (2) boatneck-style sweaters, and (3) extremely slim cut pants.
Color Palette: Neutrals with touches of light blue, pink, olive, mustard, violet, and brown.
Silhouettes: Slim cut bottoms for both men and women, including leggings. For women, tie-neck jackets and blouses were big, as were shorts, cropped motorcycle jackets, blousy sleeves, capelet-style jackets, below-the-knee skirts, blazer-like sweaters, and baggy culottes. For men, we saw boatneck-style sweaters, vests, patterned pants and shirts, cardigans, and 3/4 length coats.
Accessories Report: Oversized bags, knit caps, and sneakers for men. For women, skinny ties were the big story.
What’s Wearable: We liked the tie-neck styles, the capelet-style jackets (though they were rather Old news), and the blazer-like sweaters for women. Skinny ties were also interesting, but not particularly fresh-looking. For men, we liked the tailored look of the cardigan sweaters and the 3/4 length coats, along with the slim cut pants.
What’s Not Wearable: Be careful with the shorts-over-leggings look. It can be done, but keep the look playful. For men, the button-down shirts with contrast patterned fabric can look hokey if not done carefully. The extreme boatneck is also a style to be worn with care.
February 6th, 2006
Photo Credit: NY Metro
Key Takeaways: Each piece in Roi’s collection is unique and follows no particular guideline. Upon first glance, it seems that she is aiming for demure and ladylike, but one look at the model’s lips (painted pitch black) and that image is moot. Dresses and shirts torn in random areas reinforce this idea. Some heavy layering adds a rather masculine air from time to time. The bottom line? Anything goes.
Color Palette: With the exception of two bright pink items, black, off-white, light and navy blue, grey, and khaki hues make the models look like they have frostbite.
Silhouettes: Tight is nowhere in sight, but saggy isn’t the name of Roi’s fashion game either. Almost every item, except for one parachute-like skirt set, sits comfortably on the model’s frame. Also of note: Roi showed more skirts and dresses than trousers.
Accessories Report: Square purses resemble small lunchboxes, but with more class. One model also looked like a schoolgirl with an over-the-shoulder grey bag with black leather trimming. Steering away from the schoolgirl look, some models sported bandit-like leather gloves torn at the fingers, while others had black thorn-like earrings that look more like torture devices than jewelry pieces. Maroon leather hunting hats and what looked like tennis-shoes-on-platforms also showed up on the catwalk.
What’s Wearable: Almost every piece in Roi’s collection can be worn, but not necessarily how the designer presented it. Case in point: a navy blue Hamlet-esque long coat that would look stylish with a pair of dark blue jeans, but not with Roi’s choice of blue shorts, black stretch pants, a white button-down shirt, and a grey cardigan. If you’re feeling rather eclectic, go for the off-white knee-length dress with cutouts.
What’s Not Wearable: Unless you’re robbing a bank, the leather gloves might not come in handy, and unless you’re hunting for ducks, leave the square-head hat behind. Oh, and those black thorn earrings might have a reverse effect if you’re trying to attract a crush.
February 6th, 2006
Key Takeaways: What struck us most about this collection was the leggings, over which dresses and skirts were layered. We also saw a host of cape-like jackets, oversized coats, and voluminous sleeves. Other trends included bows (left over from Spring 06), vests (a big story for this season), and handmade-looking chunky knits.
Color Palette: Neutrals and generally muted colors, including rose, lilac, turquoise, olive, and mustard.
Silhouettes: Layering was once again the big story here. Leggings were in nearly every look, and they were seen under both skirts and dresses. Controlled volume was huge, and we saw skirts with gathered fabric at the bottom, tulip skirts, blousy sleeves, and cape-like coats.
Accessories Report: Handmade-looking knitted scarves, chain necklaces with oversized charms, leggings galore! As for shoes, Twinkle showed boots and somewhat pointy-toed flats.
What’s Wearable: Oversized coats, blousy sleeves, sweaterdresses, trenchcoats, 3/4 length coats, chunky sweaters, vests, cape-like jackets, vests, and dropped-waist dresses.
What’s Not Wearable: Some of the pattered dresses looked a little matronly. Also be careful with the leggings–they can work, but check yourself in the mirror before you leave the house, lest you look like a throwback to the 1980s.
February 6th, 2006
Key Takeaways: The key stories here were (1) Ruffles, (2) voluminous sleeves, (3) High waisted styles, (4) Lush fabrics and textures, and (5) Beautiful Draping (Doo Ri chung’s signature).
Color Palette: Neutrals–black, greys, beiges. Yawn…but it keeps the collection wearable.
Silhouettes: Puff and voluminous sleeves, 1/2 sleeves, wide legged pants, exaggerated collars, cape-like jackets with leg of mutton sleeves, handkerchief hems, bubble-like fabric gathers, cropped styles, asymmetric hemlines, cap-sleeved styles, dropped-waist dresses vs. high waisted skirts and pants, skirt lengths that end at mid-calf, oversized dresses.
Accessories Report: Giant fabric brooches, long fingerless gloves, knee-high boots, fabric scarves, embellished belts.
What’s Wearable: Most everything. We especially liked the Gorgeous black silk charmeuse evening ensemble with an inset contrast inverted triangle on the front top.
What’s Not Wearable: It’s hard to wear skirts that end at mid-calf, unless you’re Extremely Tall. And while the exaggerated ruffled collars are interesting on the runway, they might not work so well on the streets.
February 6th, 2006
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